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It sounds to me like a bearing in one of your serpentine belt driven components. I believe that’s the 3800 series engine by what I could see in the video. Be careful with the car running…then use a mechanic’a stethoscope (cheap at Harbor Freight) or a long piece of heater hose. Move it around all the pulleys, alternator, idler pulleys, tensioner, AC compressor pulley, etc. Try to zero in on sound location. Also you might see if it changes with the AC turned on and off…That would help you rule out the AC compressor clutch assembly. Water pumps are known for making interesting noises when the bearings begin to go out. Also, try raising the rpm’s with the throttle cable to see if the noise changes, intensifies, etc. Have a buddy put the car in reverse and brake torque it while you listen under the hood. It goes without saying, but be cautious around the serpentine belt and moving parts. Best of luck to you.
It sounds to me like a bearing in one of your serpentine belt driven components. I believe that’s the 3800 series engine by what I could see in the video. Be careful with the car running…then use a mechanic’a stethoscope (cheap at Harbor Freight) or a long piece of heater hose. Move it around all the pulleys, alternator, idler pulleys, tensioner, AC compressor pulley, etc. Try to zero in on sound location. Also you might see if it changes with the AC turned on and off…That would help you rule out the AC compressor clutch assembly. Water pumps are known for making interesting noises when the bearings begin to go out. Also, try raising the rpm’s with the throttle cable to see if the noise changes, intensifies, etc. Have a buddy put the car in reverse and brake torque it while you listen under the hood. It goes without saying, but be cautious around the serpentine belt and moving parts. Best of luck to you.
Thanks Hamby, I haven’t done a compression test. Before reassembling the engine, I had both heads pressure tested and checked the valves. All seemed to be fine per machine shop. When checking with a vacuum gauge, it stayed steady in the healthy engine range. I didn’t really test engine further. I checked with the vacuum gauge several times. Would you still suggest I do the compression test? I’m going back to some basics, check the voltage output on the coils, etc. thanks for your time.
Thanks Hamby, I haven’t done a compression test. Before reassembling the engine, I had both heads pressure tested and checked the valves. All seemed to be fine per machine shop. When checking with a vacuum gauge, it stayed steady in the healthy engine range. I didn’t really test engine further. I checked with the vacuum gauge several times. Would you still suggest I do the compression test? I’m going back to some basics, check the voltage output on the coils, etc. thanks for your time.
Thanks Hamby…I’m going to check them out anyways. I can’t take anything for granted. My post is starting to read like a small novel now 🙂
Thanks Hamby…I’m going to check them out anyways. I can’t take anything for granted. My post is starting to read like a small novel now 🙂
JTF, thanks for your helpful advise on my post. Reading some of your other posts, it seems you are familiar with GM’s. I did check the motor with a vacuum gauge per DF Ranger’s suggestion. The needle stays steady within the healthy motor range.This is what caused me to lean away from an internal mechanical issue.
In your experience, have you ever known of an ignition module to cause an intermittent misfire? When I’ve had them fail on GM’s in the past, it’s usually a “no start” situation. I can create the misfire by brake torquing the engine and raising rpm’s. I plan to take out all plugs, wires, (not just front cylinders as before) etc., and inspect for carbon tracking.JTF, thanks for your helpful advise on my post. Reading some of your other posts, it seems you are familiar with GM’s. I did check the motor with a vacuum gauge per DF Ranger’s suggestion. The needle stays steady within the healthy motor range.This is what caused me to lean away from an internal mechanical issue.
In your experience, have you ever known of an ignition module to cause an intermittent misfire? When I’ve had them fail on GM’s in the past, it’s usually a “no start” situation. I can create the misfire by brake torquing the engine and raising rpm’s. I plan to take out all plugs, wires, (not just front cylinders as before) etc., and inspect for carbon tracking.Accord, these are all great suggestions. You may want to check your batter connections to make sure they are tight and corrosion free. As simple as this sounds, it can create this scenario and others that mimic a more serious problem. Good luck
Accord, these are all great suggestions. You may want to check your batter connections to make sure they are tight and corrosion free. As simple as this sounds, it can create this scenario and others that mimic a more serious problem. Good luck
I thought I would give a brief update. The plenum repair shown in my videos worked out fine. The misfire however still persisted. The car finally threw a DTC code at me last week while on a road trip. The code was p0336. Both CPK sensors are new, as well as the camshaft sensor. I thought I finally had the “money shot” today; I discovered insulation on the wiring missing leading from the 24x crank sensor wiring harness under the vehicle. Wires appeared to be contacting each other in this spot. Here is a picture of it.
After repairing the wires, the problem is still there. I may just be stuck until I can get the money together to go to the dealership and pay for them to diagnose the problem. I’ve never had something whip me like this 🙂 Thanks to all for the helpful advise.
I thought I would give a brief update. The plenum repair shown in my videos worked out fine. The misfire however still persisted. The car finally threw a DTC code at me last week while on a road trip. The code was p0336. Both CPK sensors are new, as well as the camshaft sensor. I thought I finally had the “money shot” today; I discovered insulation on the wiring missing leading from the 24x crank sensor wiring harness under the vehicle. Wires appeared to be contacting each other in this spot. Here is a picture of it.
After repairing the wires, the problem is still there. I may just be stuck until I can get the money together to go to the dealership and pay for them to diagnose the problem. I’ve never had something whip me like this 🙂 Thanks to all for the helpful advise.
Tbrown I hate to discourage you, but it does sound like the tranny to me. The fact that you are able to correct this issue by manually choosing a gear instead of Drive (making it temporarily go away) makes me lean toward the transmission. In other words the tranny seems to be the common denominator here. Alternately, it could be something severely worn or loose in the steering or front suspension. Check your steering components, including the stabilizer bar and A frames that connect to the subframe at each side. Check the front strut assembly on each side and make sure they are tight where bolted onto the vehicle without excessive play… Also check your motor mounts for excessive wear, any loose bolts, etc.These are a couple things to perhaps rule out before looking into the transmission. The dog bone and bushing shouldn’t cause these symptoms. Best of luck…
Tbrown I hate to discourage you, but it does sound like the tranny to me. The fact that you are able to correct this issue by manually choosing a gear instead of Drive (making it temporarily go away) makes me lean toward the transmission. In other words the tranny seems to be the common denominator here. Alternately, it could be something severely worn or loose in the steering or front suspension. Check your steering components, including the stabilizer bar and A frames that connect to the subframe at each side. Check the front strut assembly on each side and make sure they are tight where bolted onto the vehicle without excessive play… Also check your motor mounts for excessive wear, any loose bolts, etc.These are a couple things to perhaps rule out before looking into the transmission. The dog bone and bushing shouldn’t cause these symptoms. Best of luck…
Hi Xylus,
I hope this doesn’t insult your intelligence…you’ve done a lot of work, and it sounds like you have been careful about it. Before going any further, I would suggest changing the oil and filter again. Let the engine run until normal operating temperature is reached, then change the oil after that. After doing an extensive job on my engine as a result of coolant in the oil, I was surprised how much coolant was still present. This can accumulate in the bottom of the oil pan too, after a significant leak. Here is a picture of the inside of my oil pan during the job.
At first I thought either the head gaskets or the intake manifold gaskets were still leaking. After changing it the second time there was no more coolant present.
A second suggestion would be a compression test on each cylinder. It sounds like you intend to take the plugs out anyway to check for coolant in combustion chambers. This might be a first step to ruling out head gaskets failure if compression is good…just a couple quick things I might do first if faced with your challenge. Best of luck to you…
