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Just simply follow the wires from the crank sensor to the first connector. If the corresponding wires change colors, they should remain this color all the way to the harness at the ICM.
Well, that scenario would be more likely right upon takeoff/ acceleration. If it’s truly happening at a certain rpm range, and not while shifting into another gear, I’d lean away from the transmission as the source. Of course, I’ve been wrong before. Do you still have the old coil you could swap out and try? Too bad it won’t throw a DTC at you. Sounds like someone with a good scanner needs to do some diagnostics with live data. You’ll get it figured out…
Well, that scenario would be more likely right upon takeoff/ acceleration. If it’s truly happening at a certain rpm range, and not while shifting into another gear, I’d lean away from the transmission as the source. Of course, I’ve been wrong before. Do you still have the old coil you could swap out and try? Too bad it won’t throw a DTC at you. Sounds like someone with a good scanner needs to do some diagnostics with live data. You’ll get it figured out…
It sounds liked you are knowledgeable and careful. These kinds of things can drive you nuts. I tend to approach things from a general standpoint first, then more technical. That said, I have one other thing to suggest. There may be a small vacuum leak somewhere. You’ve done a lot lof work to the engine and it’s entirely possible a hose or gasket is allowing in some unmetered air. This too can show up at a certain rpm range. Maybe you could do a smoke test. If you didn’t want to pay for one at the shop, you could do it with a cheap cigar or two. I did this once after having a smoke test performed in a shop and found some vacuum leaks that the shop tech missed. Here is a link showing Scotty Kilmer doing this. You may also want to check your fuel pressure and fuel trims. Was your crank sensor OEM as well? Keep us posted.
It sounds liked you are knowledgeable and careful. These kinds of things can drive you nuts. I tend to approach things from a general standpoint first, then more technical. That said, I have one other thing to suggest. There may be a small vacuum leak somewhere. You’ve done a lot lof work to the engine and it’s entirely possible a hose or gasket is allowing in some unmetered air. This too can show up at a certain rpm range. Maybe you could do a smoke test. If you didn’t want to pay for one at the shop, you could do it with a cheap cigar or two. I did this once after having a smoke test performed in a shop and found some vacuum leaks that the shop tech missed. Here is a link showing Scotty Kilmer doing this. You may also want to check your fuel pressure and fuel trims. Was your crank sensor OEM as well? Keep us posted.
I see nobody has responded yet, so I’ll offer a couple basic ideas. The issue of it being under a load while acting up sounds a bit like an ignition issue, especially with reference to hills. You should check the distributor and rotor for carbon tracking, any cracks or oil that has leaked into the distributor cap. Also, even though the coil is new, test it. Sometimes they only act up after the car has warmed up a while. Last year I purchased a bad one from an auto parts store.
A couple questions:
Are there any recent check engine/ DTC codes associated with the problem?
We’re the fuel injectors cleaned when you addressed the fuel rail?
Did you go back with original OEM Honda ignition components? ( Hondas are notoriously finicky when it comes to ignition components).
Are you able to create the misfire/jerking while brake torquing the engine in gear under a load?You should go after the fuel filter to ruled that out. These are some very basic suggestions. The real mechanics on this forum can help you go deeper…
Best of luck
I see nobody has responded yet, so I’ll offer a couple basic ideas. The issue of it being under a load while acting up sounds a bit like an ignition issue, especially with reference to hills. You should check the distributor and rotor for carbon tracking, any cracks or oil that has leaked into the distributor cap. Also, even though the coil is new, test it. Sometimes they only act up after the car has warmed up a while. Last year I purchased a bad one from an auto parts store.
A couple questions:
Are there any recent check engine/ DTC codes associated with the problem?
We’re the fuel injectors cleaned when you addressed the fuel rail?
Did you go back with original OEM Honda ignition components? ( Hondas are notoriously finicky when it comes to ignition components).
Are you able to create the misfire/jerking while brake torquing the engine in gear under a load?You should go after the fuel filter to ruled that out. These are some very basic suggestions. The real mechanics on this forum can help you go deeper…
Best of luck