[Glenn]

Yes sir..There is no valve adjustment needed on the GM 3.4 of this make. Put all the push rods back in proper order, tighten the rocker arm bolts down and you’re good to reassemble.

[Glenn]

Yes sir..There is no valve adjustment needed on the GM 3.4 of this make. Put all the push rods back in proper order, tighten the rocker arm bolts down and you’re good to reassemble.

[Glenn]

I may be mistaken regarding the set up without looking at it, but I believe when the tensioner unloads, it unloads against the side of the pulley. Can you send a pic? Perhaps,some others will weigh in on this too.

[Glenn]

I may be mistaken regarding the set up without looking at it, but I believe when the tensioner unloads, it unloads against the side of the pulley. Can you send a pic? Perhaps,some others will weigh in on this too.

[Glenn]

Here is a suggested updated torque spec for this engine’s rocker arm bolts;
Rocker arms
Step one 11 ft lbs then tighten 90 degrees more. Some guys don’t fuss with the torque specs and just get them good and tight. Either way, be careful, as the heads are aluminum. You do not want to over tighten these bolts.

You wrote, Important Note: Right now the upper and lower intake manifold on the engine is taken out along with the valve covers, the power steering, and alternator. I would put most of it back together and then torque them when I’m able to turn the engine on, but lots of stuff covers the valve cover by the firewall.

Does anyone have a simple step by step guide that is reliable for doing this properly without being able to turn the engine on until after reassembly.

I’m not clear on what you mean by “torque them when I’m able to turn the engine on”…? Can you elaborate? Thanks

[Glenn]

Here is a suggested updated torque spec for this engine’s rocker arm bolts;
Rocker arms
Step one 11 ft lbs then tighten 90 degrees more. Some guys don’t fuss with the torque specs and just get them good and tight. Either way, be careful, as the heads are aluminum. You do not want to over tighten these bolts.

You wrote, Important Note: Right now the upper and lower intake manifold on the engine is taken out along with the valve covers, the power steering, and alternator. I would put most of it back together and then torque them when I’m able to turn the engine on, but lots of stuff covers the valve cover by the firewall.

Does anyone have a simple step by step guide that is reliable for doing this properly without being able to turn the engine on until after reassembly.

I’m not clear on what you mean by “torque them when I’m able to turn the engine on”…? Can you elaborate? Thanks

[Glenn]

That’s correct. It should apply the correct tension automatically.

[Glenn]

That’s correct. It should apply the correct tension automatically.

[Glenn]

Regarding the tensioner; the new one should come preloaded with a pin. You simply bolt it in place, make sure everything is lined up and pull the pin to unload it. Regarding the belt, there may be some tricks. I’ve simply used an assistant to help watch and hold the camshaft pulleys in place while lining up the marks on the crank. Some Japanese makes are a little more involved because the timing belts are spread out compared to other vehicles.

[Glenn]

Regarding the tensioner; the new one should come preloaded with a pin. You simply bolt it in place, make sure everything is lined up and pull the pin to unload it. Regarding the belt, there may be some tricks. I’ve simply used an assistant to help watch and hold the camshaft pulleys in place while lining up the marks on the crank. Some Japanese makes are a little more involved because the timing belts are spread out compared to other vehicles.

[Glenn]

Brian, not to complicate things man, but if your timing chain is broken you couldn’t drive it. It would likely not even crank at all. If the timing chain has jumped time, it would likely run so rough you couldn’t even get down the road. The Cavalier my son owns sat in a driveway for 2 years because a mechanic condemned the timing chain. It was not broken at all. I’d suggest a second opinion from someone…no disrespect to your mechanic…Loss of power could be so many other things beside a slack chain…

[Glenn]

Brian, not to complicate things man, but if your timing chain is broken you couldn’t drive it. It would likely not even crank at all. If the timing chain has jumped time, it would likely run so rough you couldn’t even get down the road. The Cavalier my son owns sat in a driveway for 2 years because a mechanic condemned the timing chain. It was not broken at all. I’d suggest a second opinion from someone…no disrespect to your mechanic…Loss of power could be so many other things beside a slack chain…

[Glenn]

Crazy as it sounds, that’s exactly what an old GM crank sensor smells like. I noticed that when I took it off my vehicle. I agree with the other guys. Try replacing it…it doesn’t take a whole lot of effort and time. And I would strongly advise AC Delco OEM for this part.
..

[Glenn]

Crazy as it sounds, that’s exactly what an old GM crank sensor smells like. I noticed that when I took it off my vehicle. I agree with the other guys. Try replacing it…it doesn’t take a whole lot of effort and time. And I would strongly advise AC Delco OEM for this part.
..

[Glenn]

Just simply follow the wires from the crank sensor to the first connector. If the corresponding wires change colors, they should remain this color all the way to the harness at the ICM.

[Author]

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