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I’m glad to see a couple of mechanics I really respect on this post addressing the concern of pushing the piston back without line clamping and opening the bleeder valve. I personally do not open the bleeder valve or clamp the lines either. No disrespect to those of you who do. I would add that the piston should be pushed back slowly. This enables the back pressure to stabilize rather than receive a load of pressure all at the same time. Hope your brake job turns out well…
Hutch, some GM cooler line applications are held in place by a retaining clip. These basically hold the lines in place in the threaded access send and return ports on the radiator. Examine and see if the lines appear to have a clip holding them in place. Once the clip is removed (may require a small pic tool) the line(s) can simply be pulled put of the threaded port(s) on the radiator. Also, I have seen this same set up where the lines go into the transmission on GM’s.
If you didn’t open the system/ bleed the brakes when doing the pads/ rotors, I would indeed take a hard look at master cylinder and brake booster. There are classic master cylinder symptoms if you do not have air in the system/ fluid loss, etc., Here is a helpful article from Eric, http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems?start=7 Good luck with it…
Yes sir…these fasteners are common on many GM applications. Torx sockets may be purchased many places like an auto,parts store, Lowe’s, etc. A standard 3/8″ set should get you going…Good luck
Not to muddy the water here, but I don’t think the noise becoming more faint with the #5 plug wire disengaged proves the problem is in the engine block. Without detonation in that cylinder, a valve train related noise could become more faint as well. As previously noted here, the heads would have to come off anyway if the problem is in the block. I’d get those valve covers off and have a look up top if she were mine. You might get lucky and find something simple like a loose rocker arm. Keep us posted on what you find…
Plus 1 on Evil-i’s comment about the push rods rocker arms, etc. It sounds a little heavy for a lifter issue to me. However, a stuck valve might be a primary cause. It’s a pain to get the valve lifter off the back of that engine 🙁 I’d suggest once you do, have somebody turn it over by hand and watch all the roller rockers for movement, etc., You may want to remove the push rods one by one and see if any are bent/ damaged.
I might look like the dumbest guy on the forum for offering this 2 cents worth. I do know the GM 3400 well. You’ve received some good advice here already. Check the water pump…Yes, the water pump… when the bearings get bad enough, it can resonate and actually sound like something banging inside the engine. A few weeks back, a friend called me who was told their car had spun a bearing. Honestly, it sounded like it. However, I determined and confirmed it was the water pump. When you remove the serpentine belt, you can easily spin the pump and listen/ feel for a problem. You can even crank the vehicle for a couple minutes with the belt off. It won’t hurt it. The water pump is right up top on this motor. Good luck…
You might have done this…If so, overlook my response. Sometimes folks forget that on most GM’s, the transmission fluid needs to be checked while the transmission/ engine is hot and the engine is running in Park. It sounds like a classic symptom of low fluid to me. I’ve encountered this before.
Unfortunately, that connector looks like a dealership only item, it they are still available. If the connector is not cracked, split, etc., you might be able to remove and replace the o rings inside the connector and size them at a parts store like NAPA. It looks like you might have to drop the tank and get at it from underneath. Not trying to be a pessimist here…somebody might know a short cut.
Man… :dry: I feel your pain… The head gasket job on the GM 3.4 is no joke. Hopefully it was the front head only. That looks the connector that comes from the cam shaft sensor. It may be the connector that cap269 circled. It should, however, come out of the main wiring harness that is routed at the front side of the engine. If you can get your hands on a wiring diagram, it should give you the color of the wiring on the male end (missing end) of the harness as well.
That might work. I’ve actually had two folks help with this procedure… I would have one person slowly and continuously pour TF into the transmission while another person cranks the vehicle. I would watch for the fluid color to change at the return line. The reason for the constant flow idea is to keep the torque converter well lubricated and also prevent foam (bubbles) from filling the system if it runs out and sucks unwanted air. The person in the vehicle shuts it off upon command when the color changes. That saves $ as the fluid is expensive. Anyways, it’s a good idea and will hopefully go well for you.
Not all will agree… If you are willing to go the extra mile, I think pulling the return line and flushing the system until it runs clear is a good idea. It’s better with an attendant, so you don’t let the fluid run out (run dry) at any time during the process. That’s how I do my 100k transmission fluid changes. Let us know how it turns out…