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I didn’t read every reply on your post, so please forgive me if I’m repeating something, or going against someone else’s advice. Be sure you use the metal backed intake gasket as opposed to the plastic ones. I attached a photo of one on my 3800 (similar to the 3400). Otherwise you’ll be facing this job again. I agree you don’t need to replace the head gaskets just for good measure. However, there is another consideration. Valves are known to stick on these engines with higher mileage especially exhaust valves. If you have dug this deep into the engine, you might consider pulling the heads, replacing the valve seals and cleaning the valve stems. I did this the last time I went into the engine on my 3400 which is now approaching 300k miles. Decisions, decisions. Best of luck.
Attachments:I experienced a similar problem with an Accord. The symptoms definitely seemed like a fuel related issue. However, it was the igniter in the distributor housing. It bogged down and choked out just like a fuel issue, especially after the car warmed up. Some Honda tech friends told me how to test it but to no avail. It can be difficult to detect because sometimes it will allow spark, albeit weak spark. Sometimes they intermittently act up when going bad. I’d suggest looking into this as a possibility. Best of luck
Attachments:I just gave you some useless advice. I wasn’t thinking through the fact that the axle end is solid so this wouldn’t work. Maybe the big persuader (hammer) and pry bar. Hope you get it. Let us know.
It looks fairly tight in there. Any way could get one of these in there?
Attachments:One last shot here Ed. Banjo bolts are also used on Hondas for the fuel rail. This looks like bolts used to connect the main fuel line to the fuel rail assembly. Hope all continues to go well.
I concur with no_common_sense regarding starting with the plugs. I once put an expensive set of Bosch plugs in a GM. It ran horribly until I replaced them with AC Delco plugs. Just about drove me crazy. Good luck…
+1 on the v manual you referenced college man. I actually purchased this before. I have another Honda Accord. It is well worth it for anyone attempting this type of repair work.
The supposed procedure of backing the cam 3 teeth is not possible. Even backing if off 1 tooth will pull the crank off the TDC mark. I could find no such TSB upon further research. New belts are now in place, tensioned and aligned nicely.
The symptom of acting up more under a load has me leaning more towards an ignition related issue such as a coil. If you do not have access to a scanner with live data you could try this… Brake torque the engine in gear to put it under a load. Be careful not to overheat it. See if you can find an rpm that will cause the misfire to remain more constant. Perhaps it will throw a code your way. The PCM should detect the misfire after a predetermined/programmed number of occurrences. Other thoughts…check for carbon tracking on the spark plugs coming from coils… Check your fuel pressure as previously suggested…do a spray bottle test in the dark to look for any leaking sparks…
It kind of sounds like the set up for many of the 3.4l engines with the exhaust coming off the front and wrapping around the side of the motor (with a square looking heat shield over it). If so, you pretty much have to take the throttle body off to access it. It’s still tight in there going after the thermostat housing bolts. I’ve used a ratchet style box wrench to get after it. The challenging part is disconnecting the small coolant inlet hoses attached through the throttle body coming from the coolant bypass pipe (to remove the throttle body). Good luck with it…
Hmmm… Maybe time to pop tape measurer on the old axle and compare with the one they gave you… Keep us posted
Torquing it according to spec is a good idea. It sounds like something else may be going on though if you are unable to see the hole at the end of the axle that was visible before when the castle style axle nut was fully seated. Maybe you should remove the axle from hub, try a little bit of grease on the splines and the axle nut threads themselves. See if that helps you. Are you using an impact wrench?
Have you tried removing the brake pads to see if the tire and axle are spinning freely? If so, maybe a stuck caliper or brake caliper pins?
Strange indeed…. Do you know if this was an aftermarket balancer or GM? Since the noise started after it was replaced, I’d go there first. If a pick and pull place is nearby, go get an inexpensive GM balancer to swap out and try. Everything belt driven has effectively been eliminated as a problem. I would just want to rule out the new balancer before looking elsewhere. Keep us posted and good luck
Hi Texarkana, I did exactly the same thing years ago to my 3800 series III. I later discovered there are two makes/ styles of block rail seals, some with the tabs and some without. The ones with the tabs have rounded recessed holes in the block the tabs fit into. If you have an adequate seal already, as AceofSpades says, you should be fine. Mine lasted for 6 years until I had to go after the heads due to a stuck valve. Just keep an eye on it for escaping oil….
September 4, 2015 at 8:46 am in reply to: rear drivers side wheel locking up at random times #838406I experienced something like that years ago with an old Volkswagen Dasher. Anybody remember that beauty? It was a brake cylinder that was failing to retract, thereby locking the wheel. A bad wheel bearing would likely be exacerbated by friction. It seems like it would have locked up while driving, not after being parked at the store if that was the problem. Also, the pedal going to the floor at times makes me think it’s possibly a cylinder issue. You’ll really only know upon inspection. Hopefully it will be something simple and obvious.
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