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Bad timing belt or no, you should have fuel squirting out of that port. Ideally, you would rent a fuel pressure test kit and take a reading to confirm, as a first step.
Take my point of view for what it is worth but that looks like your ECM is failing or it’s power/grounds are being disrupted. I do not think you’re experiencing a misfire or an engine drivability fault caused by a bad sensor or IAC. That check engine light shouldn’t be turning on and off like that if your ECM was working properly.
Have you tried cleaning the ground points for the engine and the ECM? Also, maybe probe the ECM power wires with a test light and watch for flickering. You should have constant ~+12V input and ~+5V output for sensor power.
Depends on the RPO code of your 2.4. I think your 2.4 is direct injected which means anything your pour in the tank will never see the backside of the intake valves and their seats. If your engine is an LAF and has DI, then check out Scotty Kilmer’s YouTube video on direct injection and why you should be running a catch can.
Rahuljones, the service manual for your Pilot says to change the belt every 60,000 miles under extreme conditions. The normal maintenance interval is 90,000 miles.
“Replace timing belt and inspect water pumpIf the vehicle is regularly driven in very high temperatures over 110 °F (43 °C), or in very low temperatures under －20 °F(－29 °C), or towing a trailer, replace every 60,000 miles (USA models)/100,000 km (Canada models) .”
That is from Honda’s websiteWhen you say you push on the bleeder valve, are you talking about the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail? And you say you do have fuel there?
If this is a car you care about, then hire a professional. If its just a beater, then turn it into a learning experience.
As someone who just did their own for the first time I can tell you, I would gladly pay someone next time.60,000 miles t-belt changes are so 90’s. Nobody does that anymore. As for an Alfa Romeo 155, that was the book’s recommendation at the time. Take a look at anything produced after 2000 when the EPA mandated 100,000 mile tune-up free intervals. Oh wow! They are all 100,000 mile t-belt intervals now. Hmm, probably because manufacturers improved belt design along with Coil on plug (to eliminate plug wires and distributor caps) and went to iridium plugs (because expensive rare asteroid metal is about the only kind of plug that will last 100,000 miles).
Sure, a 90’s Alfa Romeo has a 60,000 mile interval. They didn’t have the EPA breathing down their necks when that car rolled off the assembly line back then. They were able to pump out a lot of cars with cheaper timing belts knowing full good and well you’ll be paying their dealer mechanics more often.
Truth is, your car is relatively young and the belt was only done 60,000 miles ago. Your service manual states 100,000 miles because all of Honda’s J series engines came out after the Tier 2 EPA regulations went into effect. Get with the times and keep some money in your pocket.
Heck, my 1990 Toyota Cressida has a 20 year old t-belt with 60,000 miles on it and it isn’t cracked and felt great when I changed the head gasket last week. That’s the kind of extreme circumstances where you want to change a belt due to age.Just a suggestion here but it sounds like you may want to verify the charging voltage when the car acts up, not only when you’ve just fired it up. Rebuilding the alternator is all good and well but if your load detection circuit isn’t working (and there is one outside of the alternator) then you may end up with what you’ve got.
I’m guessing a vacuum leak or some kind of post AFM air admittance. Perhaps the errant O2 fault is a result of more air going in than counted? Did you repeat your smoke test post gasket install? Maybe split an old vacuum line? At least that’s where my head is at. Otherwise, I’d say you’ve really gone through everything pretty well. Usually at this point I start going back through my tests to make sure I haven’t overlooked something.
For the pan, I’d use a high-temp gray RTV. I’m not too picky about brand. As for sealing bolt threads, you should use Permatex High-Temp thread sealant. In my opinion, RTV isn’t really the right product for sealing threads.
Silicone it if you want to get it on the road. Replace the pan gasket if you want to be a perfectionist.
That does sound like a mess. Without there being any cam marks, getting the engine correctly timed will be near impossible. What does the service manual say for cam alignment?
You should compare your pad thickness with that of another manufacturer’s pad. Model numbers are good to check but manufacturers can make production mistakes. And while it is possible your caliper is bad, I don’t think its likely for a 2010 model. I’m pretty sure you received the incorrect pad size.