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I just did one yesterday. It is a little time consuming and yes I did use a wobble socket to run out the bottom three water pump bolts. If you’re novice, you may want to pay a shop. But if you think you’ve got a decent set of tools and some time, go for it.
Ecotec engines and fuel management have nothing in common with Saturn’s 1.9 family. Even if you have a manual transmission and by some miracle it bolted up you would still need to figure out how to get the Saturn clutch to spline with the GM transmission and proper spacing is an issue too. If you have an automatic it gets even worse. You come into problems getting a torque converter and the accompanying programming to work across two different computer designs. And gauges, you might as well forget them too unless you know how to packet sniff a CAN bus and program an Arduino to transmit the appropriate baud rates and hex sets between the BCM and ECM.
In short, got get a 2.2 out of a junkyard. They’re plentiful and cheap. Heck, while you’re at it, try to find a 2.4.One thing you can try is priming the fuel pump multiple times before starting and see if it makes a difference. Perhaps fuel is slowly bleeding back past the pump?
You need quite a bit of air to get to 6000 rpm. There are few thoughts that come to mind.
Civics have used a few different throttle bodies over the years. Fel-Pro engine kits don’t come with all the correct ones sometimes. I had a 95 civic where I installed the wrong gasket and it would idle between 2 and 4k rpms. There was about an inch gap in the gasket sealing surface in that case. I think that was the most stable I could make the idle with the adjustment screw turned all the way in.
I’d start with an inspection of the t-body gasket. Lay it against the manifold and t-body during the inspection. It should surround the primary and secondary ports. If the gasket checks out, you could try duct taping the throttle nearly closed and try to find the air admittance point that way.
Best of luck!I only say this because my dad did it when he replaced the fuel spider in his blazer and he had the exact same symptoms. It is possible you nicked an o-ring during assembly. Have you tried pulling the upper plenum and getting a visual on the lines with the fuel system pressurized? Even a small leak would cause the truck to run rich, fowl the plugs and slowly lose fuel pressure when shut off.
If you want, you can change it. It detects the pressure from a commanded shift which, in theory, could cause your problem.
I normally, do the internal wiring harness, the solenoids and the manifold switch.
Seeing as how you’re going through all the trouble anyhow.A and B are the same solenoids. The TCC solenoid is different. I’ve had a car with a bad TCC solenoid. It would stay stuck on when warm. Basically, you would start the car when cold and drive around fine. Go out on the highway and when you got off, it would stay in gear even at red lights which of course would stall the engine.
I’m with rahuljones on this one. Seems odd that the a/c keeps pulling down the voltage. You can simulate the electrical load of the a/c clutch by turning on other devices. Weird that the other devices didn’t have the same effect.
I like the metal magna-pure filters. I’ve had one on my S10 for 8 years. I change the O-ring every 20,000 miles during it’s cleaning. Hasn’t leaked once.
I could be wrong, but I think your vehicle uses a 3/8″ hose for its return line.Check everything in the underhood power center. I’m sure somebody has the book and could tell you more accurately. To be safe, pretty much anything 30 amps and under should cover the solenoids.
That certainly would fit with the codes. In short, the computer says there is a fault with the A, B and TCC solenoid circuitry.
Seems a bit odd that all would fail at the same time lest the wiring were damaged.
The first thing I would do is check fuses in the underhood power center. Even fuses that appear unrelated as GM has been known to double up on unrelated circuits.
Hopefully, you have old wiring that is blowing a fuse. That would be the ideal scenario.You would need an in-line pressure gauge to test pump output. Reference the specs in the book.
Personally, I’d change the pump. GM P/S pumps are good but they are known to fail near idle when they get old. They aren’t too expensive and aside from the pulley, pretty easy to do.
I would strongly recommend installing a line filter when you go back together with it.