Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I’m sure you’ll get many different opinions on this one. Anyway, the wear indicator is supposed to be at the top. That’s how Honda does it from the factory for all their models.
I’m sure someone is going to say its all wrong. But in my opinion that little thin piece of metal contacting the rotor is going to make noise in both directions. After all, cars DO go in reverse every now and again.Blower motor resistor. Controls need it to work properly. Doesn’t matter if the fan works correctly.
Your air conditioning system has a built-in safety mechanism. A sensor checks for either too low or too high a pressure. If your compressor comes on, the pressure rises too high and then the compressor abruptly turns off, then most likely there is a blockage.
Whether that blockage is due to contamination or your environmental controls malfunctioning, is hard to say. I have seen it happen both ways.
Your description was a little foggy on whether or not the system was in auto or manual during the test. Could you confirm the test results were during a manual run? Additionally, are there any other symptoms such as only having one fan speed?Have you tried starting the truck while someone slowly rotates the distributor +- 15 degrees? I know you guys got the base timing set, but you’re popping a code telling you that the base timing is wrong.
97-99.3 SBC’s are the odd one because GM did not put timing marks on the crank pulley. If there is any slack in your timing chain or the distributor is more than +-2 degrees off, starting becomes a real nightmare.
Rotating the distributor will at least get you close enough to start the engine at which time the computer can take over and adjust the timing for you. BTW, your fuel injection system is heavily reliant on correct cam to crank timing in order to know when to open the injectors.
I would try rotating the distributor first. If the computer can get the engine started and maintain a half-way decent idle, you can instantly rule out a lot of other things.See if backing up and then putting it into drive makes the clunk noise more consistent. On a rear wheel drive application, hearing a clunk when putting a vehicle into gear usually means a bad u-joint in the driveshaft.
I have a few ideas but maybe we can make this easier.
Would you upload a photo of what you are seeing?
Normally, a B20 timing belt job should not be this difficult.Ah. With the UP marks pointing approximately at 12 o’clock, you should see two marks at 3 and 9 o’clock. These two marks should line up with the top surface of the cylinder head.
The UP mark is not the real timing mark.All belt slack should be with the tensioner pulley and not the water pump. If you don’t do this, you will be one tooth off when you release the tensioner spring.
Camshaft alignment is not necessary before cylinder head removal. Camshaft alignment is only necessary when installing the cylinder head.
I can think of at least 5 reasons why you’re having such a problem. The best thing to do is test for power at each point in the system until you find the fault. Not the most glorious way to spend your day but very educational.
You have two different sensors for redundancy. Given the dangers of an erroneous signal, manufacturers make sure you take an average of two sensors (absolute). If a discrepancy is seen between both of the two(Desired), then the whole pedal is considered defective and unsafe, hence, limp-home mode.
As a trick, shady dealerships will jump the two signals together with a piece of wire to trick the computer into seeing all matching values. Car runs a little weird but no MIL.
I’d say you need a new pedal.Get a hold of an automotive test light and the starting wiring schematic. Start at the starter and work your way back to the ignition switch. Be sure to check fuses first, you might get lucky.
Yeah, those cheap meters are not the most accurate. I’d say your coil is fine.
As for distributors, nothing really beats OEM. Not sure why the aftermarket consistently can’t seem to get Honda ignition right after all these years. When I was heavy into Honda, we would actually hunt down the seal part number and repair the distributor before buying a new one. If i were you, I would try to source a used Honda distributor and rebuild it. You’ll save a ton of money and it will last a long time. If your distributor was OEM, the internal seal would have an NSK part number on it, problem solved. If cardone rebuilt your unit, a rebuild kit should still work. If your cardone kit is totally new, who knows if a rebuild kit would fit?