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Thank you again Eric for replying! And everyone else too ofcourse! I will start with replacing the wires and go from there. I haven’t had time to do much else with the car so i’ll make another post when I know something new. You all take care in the meantime!
Thank you Eric!
I think I have seen all your videos and they are great!
After some furhter investigation I have found spark leaks from the spark plug wires thanks to your method Eric. I sprayed water on them and with the lights out I could see the spark jump. The leaks are everywhere, to the fuel rail, the head and a lot of other places! Even if that is not the cause there is for sure something to look in to. In addition to my first post I have done a fuel pressure test and it checked out with 2 bar att idle and 2.5 with vacuum removed. This car with L-Jetronic has a vane-type MAF sensor so i cannot clean it. However i have tested it on the bench with a regulated 5V source and it had a consistent voltage drop from 210mV at closed position and nearly 5V in the fully open position.
I have not yet done a Dynamic Compression Test as I have not had time. I haven’t done that for some time and I have to refresh my mathematics but if I’m not wrong I work out how much the engine is breathing and then I can calculate an estimate DCR value by multiplying it with the CR?I’ll keep you posted! Thanks again!
Thank you Eric!
I think I have seen all your videos and they are great!
After some furhter investigation I have found spark leaks from the spark plug wires thanks to your method Eric. I sprayed water on them and with the lights out I could see the spark jump. The leaks are everywhere, to the fuel rail, the head and a lot of other places! Even if that is not the cause there is for sure something to look in to. In addition to my first post I have done a fuel pressure test and it checked out with 2 bar att idle and 2.5 with vacuum removed. This car with L-Jetronic has a vane-type MAF sensor so i cannot clean it. However i have tested it on the bench with a regulated 5V source and it had a consistent voltage drop from 210mV at closed position and nearly 5V in the fully open position.
I have not yet done a Dynamic Compression Test as I have not had time. I haven’t done that for some time and I have to refresh my mathematics but if I’m not wrong I work out how much the engine is breathing and then I can calculate an estimate DCR value by multiplying it with the CR?I’ll keep you posted! Thanks again!
Hi,
Have you watched this ScannerDanner one?
This video is for a 5.4L V8 but Fords EGR system is basically the same in all models.
or this videoYou will have to test the DPFE sensor for the EGR system like ScannerDanner does with a test-pin and apply pressure to one of the ports to get a voltmeter reading. If the DPFE sensor checks out OK you have to continue investigating why there is no EGR flow. As you have changed the EGR valve the logical course of action would be the EVR (EGR Valve regulator). I don’t know if the voltages are the same for a -98 Escort as the american Escort is not the same as the European one! You may have to look the voltages up! Good luck!