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Body parts, interior parts, yes.
Wear and tear Items. I’m talking spark plugs, break pads, discs. No
If you’re handy with things like brake calipers and starter motors, If you have truly knackered them and your looking to find one in exchangeable condition thats will cost you less than the exchange surcharge to get a refurb, that can be worthwhile.
Plus alot of the bit’s and pieces already mentioned ^^^ above.
One of my local breakers have a guaranteed good policy, you can take it back and exchange it if it’s not but they will not cover any labour charges!!
Body parts, interior parts, yes.
Wear and tear Items. I’m talking spark plugs, break pads, discs. No
If you’re handy with things like brake calipers and starter motors, If you have truly knackered them and your looking to find one in exchangeable condition thats will cost you less than the exchange surcharge to get a refurb, that can be worthwhile.
Plus alot of the bit’s and pieces already mentioned ^^^ above.
One of my local breakers have a guaranteed good policy, you can take it back and exchange it if it’s not but they will not cover any labour charges!!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=76960]
Aftermarket stuff usually is a mixed bag. For the most part the aftermarket part industry is driven by profit margins over quality. Come to think of it, that’s the way most things seem to work these days.[/quote]Trouble is with aftermarket parts, I’m asking around all my friends in the business or resorting to trial and error to find out are these parts are any good. I Often don’t have the money to go with dealer prices. I’d always spend a little more over the cheapest option if i know it’s going to work out better in the long run.
Sometimes it’s hard to figure out which brand supplies parts to OEM then get the OEM label stamp before ending up at the part store at the dealer. if you can figure it out it saves you fair bit of money over dealer prices while avoiding the crap, and the parts fit like a glove.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=76960]
Aftermarket stuff usually is a mixed bag. For the most part the aftermarket part industry is driven by profit margins over quality. Come to think of it, that’s the way most things seem to work these days.[/quote]Trouble is with aftermarket parts, I’m asking around all my friends in the business or resorting to trial and error to find out are these parts are any good. I Often don’t have the money to go with dealer prices. I’d always spend a little more over the cheapest option if i know it’s going to work out better in the long run.
Sometimes it’s hard to figure out which brand supplies parts to OEM then get the OEM label stamp before ending up at the part store at the dealer. if you can figure it out it saves you fair bit of money over dealer prices while avoiding the crap, and the parts fit like a glove.I started stretching out my 6000 miles, with the oil looking decent after 6000 miles on synthetics. the haynes manual says 10000 miles or 1 year and default oil service reset on the dash go for 1 year or 15000KM which works out a little less than 10000 miles. I’ve been doing it at 7000-8500 depending on the time of year, how dirty the oil is and what kind of driving has been done most.
I reset the oil service indicator to nag me at 1 year or 8500 ish miles when I do it.
I started stretching out my 6000 miles, with the oil looking decent after 6000 miles on synthetics. the haynes manual says 10000 miles or 1 year and default oil service reset on the dash go for 1 year or 15000KM which works out a little less than 10000 miles. I’ve been doing it at 7000-8500 depending on the time of year, how dirty the oil is and what kind of driving has been done most.
I reset the oil service indicator to nag me at 1 year or 8500 ish miles when I do it.
Aftermarket parts, what a mixed bag, there are good ones that are as good if not better than the original ( especially if some of the original parts are renowned for being unreliable), Others are not that vital and not an issue. a good few are just pants.
We’ve seen knock off brake parts in the uk looking pretty close to the ones sold by reputable manufacturers originals, many have been down right dangerous, potentially deadly.
Just today I’ve been tracking down a new starter motor, the only new units are aftermarket and are well known for failing in 3 weeks, I made sure as it was for a VW I got a refurbished Bosch, though the Lucas aftermarket refurbs are decent.
Aftermarket parts, what a mixed bag, there are good ones that are as good if not better than the original ( especially if some of the original parts are renowned for being unreliable), Others are not that vital and not an issue. a good few are just pants.
We’ve seen knock off brake parts in the uk looking pretty close to the ones sold by reputable manufacturers originals, many have been down right dangerous, potentially deadly.
Just today I’ve been tracking down a new starter motor, the only new units are aftermarket and are well known for failing in 3 weeks, I made sure as it was for a VW I got a refurbished Bosch, though the Lucas aftermarket refurbs are decent.
This is partly why i like to DIY.
Especially parts that are liable to get rusty, I can spent plenty of my own time with the wire brush cleaning off rust, and wait a few extra hours while I give them a coat of hammerite ( A paint that lasts a long time on rust, steel and iron ) especially on break carriers and drum breaks making the next time I do the job a breeze.
Also going DIY on many parts, especially the breaks means I get to choose the brake parts more readily, this I usually spend a bit more on something I know tends to last a bit longer and comes with extras like new bolts and sliders or with drum breaks new springs. In my case I found a really nice aftermarket kits from the same company that makes the OEM ones, a fair bit cheaper than having the OEM label on the box.
Also In the UK most garages seem way too quick to opt for new break calipers especially when it might take a little extra time to get them in a bench vice to help lubricating getting stuck and partially pistons moving freely again.
This is partly why i like to DIY.
Especially parts that are liable to get rusty, I can spent plenty of my own time with the wire brush cleaning off rust, and wait a few extra hours while I give them a coat of hammerite ( A paint that lasts a long time on rust, steel and iron ) especially on break carriers and drum breaks making the next time I do the job a breeze.
Also going DIY on many parts, especially the breaks means I get to choose the brake parts more readily, this I usually spend a bit more on something I know tends to last a bit longer and comes with extras like new bolts and sliders or with drum breaks new springs. In my case I found a really nice aftermarket kits from the same company that makes the OEM ones, a fair bit cheaper than having the OEM label on the box.
Also In the UK most garages seem way too quick to opt for new break calipers especially when it might take a little extra time to get them in a bench vice to help lubricating getting stuck and partially pistons moving freely again.
Speaking from a place where Diesel is the Norm it’s about 50/50 petrol/gasoline for cars on the roads. My diesel and most peoples diesels needed far more regular servicing than petrol cars. Diesel is hard to burn completely thus they get dirty get coked up with carbon from incomplete burning fuel easily. Especially on modern diesels with various emission controls you need to pretty specialist stuff to clean it out and keep or return it to running like or close to as new condition.
Actually most garages I do not have the very best or not very effective tools to clean our diesel Engines and those vital EGR valves and DFP’s effectively and easily. I’m pretty sure the best stuff I’ve used to restore an diesel engines was an american innovation and still pretty rare over here in the UK.
I hate diesels personally, often loud and rough sounding engines, alot of maintenance, really hard to maintain like new performance and the Emissions contain alot more of the nasty stuff that affects air quality, causes smog and ailments like asthma. But the torque is great for heavy good vehicles.
I keep getting yelled at by my parents and my Sister, they keep saying why don’t you get into the automotive trade. They keep seeing that I manage all the electronic stuff and sorting out that side of the my neighbours cars, ( 2 of which where trained mechanics but are retired), with ease. I try to talk them through the basics, how it works. I usually end up with blanks stares as if I’m talking some distant alien language. It’s like on my home made scope I showed one of them what his lambda sensor was doing vs what a working one. I dunno if he’s just jaded or doesn’t have a clue. Those guys seem to be fine with anything mechanical, introduce electronics and computers and you may as well be on another planet.
I guess my family don’t realise just how many tools you can end up with even if your trying to keep it small and DIY.
Ether way I like working on cars right now, I really don’t want to hate it ether, I can see that happening if it becomes my job.
Speaking from a place where Diesel is the Norm it’s about 50/50 petrol/gasoline for cars on the roads. My diesel and most peoples diesels needed far more regular servicing than petrol cars. Diesel is hard to burn completely thus they get dirty get coked up with carbon from incomplete burning fuel easily. Especially on modern diesels with various emission controls you need to pretty specialist stuff to clean it out and keep or return it to running like or close to as new condition.
Actually most garages I do not have the very best or not very effective tools to clean our diesel Engines and those vital EGR valves and DFP’s effectively and easily. I’m pretty sure the best stuff I’ve used to restore an diesel engines was an american innovation and still pretty rare over here in the UK.
I hate diesels personally, often loud and rough sounding engines, alot of maintenance, really hard to maintain like new performance and the Emissions contain alot more of the nasty stuff that affects air quality, causes smog and ailments like asthma. But the torque is great for heavy good vehicles.
I keep getting yelled at by my parents and my Sister, they keep saying why don’t you get into the automotive trade. They keep seeing that I manage all the electronic stuff and sorting out that side of the my neighbours cars, ( 2 of which where trained mechanics but are retired), with ease. I try to talk them through the basics, how it works. I usually end up with blanks stares as if I’m talking some distant alien language. It’s like on my home made scope I showed one of them what his lambda sensor was doing vs what a working one. I dunno if he’s just jaded or doesn’t have a clue. Those guys seem to be fine with anything mechanical, introduce electronics and computers and you may as well be on another planet.
I guess my family don’t realise just how many tools you can end up with even if your trying to keep it small and DIY.
Ether way I like working on cars right now, I really don’t want to hate it ether, I can see that happening if it becomes my job.
Here in the UK, I’ve found on many occasions even though RON95 is specified, most of the major petrol companies use there best fuel Ron 98 or 99 and put an additive package or an improved additive package over there regular fuel in there higher octane fuels.
Most of the MPG gains on such fuel can probably be traced to better control or removal of deposits in the combustion chamber from these fuels. It’s defiantly there and My car definitely tends to run smoother with better MPG on both cheeper and higher octane fuels once it’s had a tank or 2 of say Shell V-power ( Nitro) through it.
Here in the UK, I’ve found on many occasions even though RON95 is specified, most of the major petrol companies use there best fuel Ron 98 or 99 and put an additive package or an improved additive package over there regular fuel in there higher octane fuels.
Most of the MPG gains on such fuel can probably be traced to better control or removal of deposits in the combustion chamber from these fuels. It’s defiantly there and My car definitely tends to run smoother with better MPG on both cheeper and higher octane fuels once it’s had a tank or 2 of say Shell V-power ( Nitro) through it.
Here ( in the UK ) I see parts distributors make it easy for the end customers to get discounts, garages tend to get no discount + same day delivery charges. Often the List Prices for garages ordering over the phone are alot higher than the click and collect prices on the website before discount.
To be fair my local garage parts are only marked up around about the charge for same day delivery they get charged.