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Sorry for the confusion. Some of us don’t have continuity settings for our multimeters and have to use resistance…..
I’m sure you know what I was getting at. Continuity checks can help check wiring in inaccessible locations. And you can easily check for power at the relay box while using the battery as a ground, vs using the engine block as a ground to also check one of the grounds.Before you spend time on the relays, which are not likely to all fail simultaneously, try running in jumper cables from the battery to the jump posts. If everything now works, the relays are fine, though the relay box or power distribution module might still be bad. Don’t be afraid to check for power where the battery connects to the fuse box.
I’ve seen fusible links or fuses knock out the engine, but leave the radio or some other light working. Your problem sounds different, more like complete lack of body ground.Sounds like you have a connection issue between the jump posts and the battery. maybe as simple as corrosion on the battery side post terminals. You can use a voltmeter set to ohms to check for continuity between the jump post and the battery leads. Infinitive resistance means an open circuit.
Running a car lean is what Volkswagen just got fined for earlier this year. It’s illegal for many of us in the US. It should be quite possible to design a oscillator circuit to mimic the o2sensor and replace it. The right capacitor and a variable resistor might allow you to adjust it until it looks like a sensor on a scan tool, and to the ecm.
I would start by having the battery and alternator tested. Most parts stores can do it while it’s still in the car.
When you jump started the car, did you connect the leads directly to the battery posts, or did you connect the negative to the engine block?
If you connected to the block, the negative wire to the starter, engine block and fender May be the issue. Otherwise, it’s probably a fusible link in the engine fuse/relay box.If they give you a written quote, it should say. Also, try another transmission shop. We are talking $ 2-3000 so you can’t get too many estimates. But ask each shop if it’s new or reman., or a repair on the current unit. AAMCO isn’t always that good, but they have a nationwide warranty, as do NAPA autocare centers.
Do the headlights also flicker? Any bunt fuse holders? Volvos I’ve had had loose crimp connectors in the fuse/ relay box.
You might want to try disconnecting the heater and Ac control panel and drive it for a few days to see if the fuse still blows. If it does, it’s the wiring harness, if not, you need a new or recycled control panel.
With they key in the run, or accessory position, it might still be activated especially if the computer got an rpm signal, or some other signal due to testing.
I wouldn’t be too woried if it operates. The real problems come when it doesn’t operate.Maybe a short to spark plug coil voltage? Or a bad pcm. The incident with the adapter you mentioned could have damaged the pcm. If you have the correct 5v signal at the oxygen sensor when checked with a multimeter, then the pcm might be misinterpreting a normal signal. If the multimeter sees 30v, or 300v, you might only have a wiring issue.
If you have the money, go for it. Replacing the hose now may save some work later. Just inspect it to make sure it hasn’t already been replaced.
It seems like no noise at idle even if you rev the engine would rule out a vacuum leak. Does the pitch of the noise change much as you shift gears, or is it about the same at a given roadspeed, regardless of engine rpm? This might point you toward the transmission, axles and wheel bearings.
Does it sometimes blow the fuse for the blower motor? What else is on that fuse? I’m thinking if the battery is OK, you might have an intermittent short circuit pulling all the power it can get. Or it might be a bad connection with high resistance.
If blowing the fuse gets your car back to normal, you might want to check the circuits coming from that fuse for loose connections, or broken insulation.