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Just another thought: fuel gauges aren’t that accurate. I’m not sure your fuel mileage is that bad. You might want to drive it more to see if it improves. Fill to fill mileage calculations have given me the best results.
Just hoping we have an outlier data point, rather than a mechanical problem.
I’ve had good results checking fuel trims and proclaiming all is well if the long term fuel trims were near zero.I second dtidman. Dead batteries can cause dim lights and rapidly clicking starter gears. But if the other car is running, you might still be able to jump start it. Maybe the connections weren’t good enough last time. Sometimes wiggling the jumper cable clips on the battery posts can help get a better connection.
The only reason I add this is if I were doing this, I’d like to drive to the auto parts store for a battery test instead of carrying my battery there!My 2.3 Ranger never has tps readings below 14%. Your readings are in that same range. I don’t think the Throttle Position sensor is bad. Your scan tool readings seem to show it is working.
It sounds like you just went from running lean to running rich, with poor mpg. Does the exhaust smell like unburnt fuel now? You might want to check the injectors(are they clicking) and check fuel pressure (30-40 psi). How does the upstream Oxygen sensor look on the scan tool now? is it switching like it should?
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80cadd4f
Looks like oil is ok. If it’s not oily yet, I see no reason not to oil it. 14 ft lb is not much more than hand tight. With a 6″ wrench, that’s like picking up 1.75 gal of water.
Buzzing probably means arcing, either inside the relay, or at the terminals under it. Is the relay box melting underneath the relay? Might need to clean the connections and possibly receipt or solder the wires connecting to the relay receptacle. Check for high resistance on the relay, or measurable voltage drop on either side of the relay in the circuit.
If none of this checks out, the control voltage to the relay might be weak or intermittent, causing it to switch on and off quickly. Might still do a wiring issue.If you want to test the engine coolant temp sensor, here is a chart to compare it’s resistance to. Unplug it to test. Should be a two pin connector. One side gets power, the other side sends a reduced voltage to the computer based on how much resistance the sensor reads. If the sensor is shorted, or way low on resistance when hot, it might be making the computer think the engine is always cold, and giving it more fuel.
Why try to oil the threads of the valve adjusting screw and lockut when they are already oily? I’m not sure I got your question right. If I did, then the threads are already oiled…..
When a car warms up the computer goes from open loop to closed loop and adjusts the fuel mixture using the oxygen sensors. That usually means it reduces fuel concentration compared with a cold start condition. By disconnecting a vacuum hose you create a vacuum leak that increases idle speed. since this seems to work I think you should check the idle air control valve, and throttle position sensor.
The coolant temp sensor won’t keep the car from idling, only from starting while hot, and make the fuel mixture too rich. You can often check sensor resistance to test it.
A few more questions:.
Does the car run ok if you keep your foot on the gas pedal? Or does it have issues while driving when hot? If so, does the exhaust smell like unburnt gasoline?You might be able to use a voltmeter to check for power at the starter while cranking, and also check for a good ground to the battery. The connections might look fine without supplying power. If you have power issues, the large or heavy gauge wires have full time power while the smaller wires to the solenoid usually are controlled by the starter relay which is controlled by the ignition switch. If there is power to the starter when cranking, then pull the starter out and have it tested. It’s only wire connections and two bolts.
The that is p1131 upstream lean/ not switching.
P1132 is upstream o2 rich/ not switching.
Sounds like a fuel metering or delivery problem. Sometimes it’s rich, other times its lean.
A scan tool might display fuel trim data to let you see if it’s running lean under load and rich at idle. A fuel pressure test might be able to rule out the fuel pump and filter. Or if both conditions happen under load, you may want to test the oxygen sensor itself. If it’s not switching the signal will be either 5v or 0v. If it’s working you’ll get 2.5-3v because RMS voltmeters average the readings of waveforms.Do you need to disable the o2 sensor completely, or could you use a wideband o2 with a resistor inline?
If you hear the starter click but it will not start try turnin the engine over by hand, or removing the serpentine belt. It might be a bad bearing on an accessory, like the water pump, alternator, or Ac, power steering, or tensioner pulley.
It could also be the starter, the starter wiring, starter relay or ignition switch, if you don’t hear it click when trying to start.Once you get it running, fix the coolant leak before it destroys the engine. I’ve heard it’s often either the pump or the intake gaskets.
Your timing belt is not broken, otherwise you would never get it to run at all. It would also crank real fast if the timing belt had broken. You can verify with a timing light or a compression tester if you want….
To get you back on the road, I would start checking fuel pressure, and trying to use the gas pedal to keep it running. it might just be an idle issue. then check spark and compression and possibly use a scanner to check fuel trims.Can you replicate the clicking sound by shaking your vehicle while parked? If you can, it might be a control arm or tie rod ball joint. As for the whining noise, can you make it happen at other speed ranges by turning overdrive off, or driving in D3? Is it a particular gear in the transmission, or a speed range regardless of trans mission gearing or engine rpm?
