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Yes, on my vehicles, if I have an elevated short term fuel trim, I will soon get an elevated long term fuel trim too.
If I start driving, and the fuel trim moves between positive and negative( deccellerating) long term trims get closer to zero, but they shouldn’t stay at exactly 0.0What brand scanner are you using? Heard good things about actron and Bosch scanners.
Elm 327 Bluetooth dongles still have some compatibility issues. One test might be to have your local parts store try to pull codes.
Other options are very limited. It might involve visual inspection of wiring, and checking ground connections between the ecm and the engine.
The other option is to try to diagnose the idle problem without checking codes, by checking for fouled spark plugs,(running rich), vacuum leaks(lean),etc.Unplug the coil from the distributor and do a resistance test. 1.6 engines should have 1.11-1.75 ohms.
1.8 engines should have 0.36-0.55 ohms.
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152800b8b92I’ve gone for two prybars, one on each side, and a framing hammer in the past. Add a little frustration, anger and a few hours time and the axle eventually comes out.
These jobs always make me wonder if I should ever work on cars again…Has the scanner worked on this 04 lancer before?
Does the scanner power up using the obd port’s power feed?Engine rebuilds can easily cost $3000+. Even valve guide seals require the head be removed to remove the valves, but a compression test might help determine if the piston rings are ok.
What, a duplicate thread to the other thread where you curse at a moderator?
Once you start attacking the people who might try to help you, why do think no one wants to respond?You’ll probably be able to leave the engine in, but have to pull the transmission to inspect the flex plate. The torque specs are usually high enough that you’ll want to use an impact wrench if you have to replace the flex plate.
But you might also be able to rent an inspection camera, or use a flashlight and mirror to check things out by pulling the starter and looking through its mounting hole.Yes. Cars that are operating correctly don’t stall either in open loop or closed loop.
Gmule was trying to help us go to the next step of why a car might run fine in open loop and then stall in closed loop.Since the coolant temperature sensor is out of range, I think you’re ready to replace it. It shouldn’t read lower temperatures than the thermostat is made to open at. Most likely it is just the sensor. The low readings seem to prove this.
I’ve heard Windstar have secondary air injection issues. Every Windstar at the junkyard has this valve on the front of the engine behind d the injector rail removed because the bushings go bad.
If you have a vacuum gauge, you might be able to check if manifold vacuum is lower than normal, and try pulling off hoses and plugging the lines to isolate the system with the leak.I’ve rebuilt the b230 ft in my 1987 Volvo 740. There are ruber absorbers under the lifters that don’t last very long. Once they wear out,(5000 mi) you have to adjust the valves. The valves are adjustable, the shims to go on top of the buckets can be purchased individually from fcp Euro so you don’t need a $250 USD kit of shims.
Unfortunately, you need to have the camshaft removed to do this.
Or buy special tools. Even then without the rubber absorbers it will stay loud. And they only last about one oil change. Get the valves adjusted once, then just ignore the noise. It’s not going to go away.
You can check the valve clearance with regular feeler gauges. It’s easy to do, and must feeler gauges are more than flexible enough. If something is way off, you’ll know because a larger feeler gauge will fit between the cam and the lifter.
The specs are:
0.30mm to 0.40mm cold
0.35mm to 0.45mm hot
When adjusting set to 0.35-0.40 mm cold.Yes, the previa has a unique engine location, under the floor in between the front seats! I’m not sure what a head gasket would be like, but oil changes are fun, sitting in the driver’s seat filling the oil!
I’ve pulled blower motors from junkyards before with good results.
Now the real issue, the one that makes the blower motor immaterial, is losing coolant. I have heard some GM v6 engines have intake gasket issues, but whether it’s the intake, the head gasket, or a cracked head or block, you would have white smoke.
Other possibilities if there is no white smoke: external leak, either leaving calcium deposits or dripping on the ground, or heater core leak soaking the interior carpet, or milky oil, transmission fluid,from a radiator or head gasket leak.
Let’s hope it’s a small external leak from a hose or something similar, that’s leaving white stains or calcium deposits, but only leaking while the engine is running.Scan tool time. Unfortunately this is a pre obd, or possibly obd I car, so it’s hard to get info on the fuel system. All you can do within a reasonable budget would be checking fuel system pressure with a fuel pressure gauge -$20@ harbor freight- and possibly checking resistance on the injectors. Resistance should be 1.5-2.5 ohms.
Fuel pressure should be 36-41 psi
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528005f8e7#hd1-1-2
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528005f871#hd1-1-2
By the way, I’m also in Texas, so I don’t have experience with CA smog checks either….