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It probably just needs a new Schrader valve e core. There’s a special tool to change them without recovering the refrigerant , but try tightening it up with a tire valve core tool first. Maybe you can get it fixed without buying all that refrigerant. Just be sure to do it when the vehicle has sat for a while so the pressure won’t be as high.
If you think the sensor is good, and you know the 5v power feed to vehicle metal is good, do you also have 5v between the two pins on the connector? Either way, at least one of the wires is good.
Now, for a professional mechanic, using a scope to capture the waveform, compare it to a known good waveform in the FSM, and then you can replace the pcm. Without a scope it’s time to guess and change parts. I’d rather not spend money on parts until I’ve cleaned connections, wiggled terminals, and cleared the codes.
What if it’s a motor mount and the engine is actually shaking? The electrical system might be fine, telling us the engine is shaking more than normal.All I usually get online are the titles of tsb’s like this:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Suburban/2002/tsbs/But for what it’s worth, check it out.
I think the knock sensor is either a capacitor, or more likely, a piezoelectric that generates an Ac signal when shaken. Tests of the sensor require an oscilloscope, so at this point the Diy’er is forced to just change the part. And knock sensors are cheap, around $30, but hard to access on FWD models.
True, but the fuse box might have some fuses or relays that are shared by multiple components. The faults on the dashboard suggest the pcm is working at least partially, so Im hoping you can narrow down which components are working and which are not. Since the dash lights work, its probably not the ignition switch, but maybe the shift lever on the transmission or the brake pedal switch keeping it from cranking. Or it could be a fuse, or main relay. once it starts cranking again you can diagnose why it doesn’t start.
No. A bad starter won’t stop the engine from running. But checking for power there might still help. Checking for power in the fuse box and at the start and fuel pump relays may also help you find the electrical fault.
You might want to check the starter. Might not have power or the solenoid might be bad. You have full time power to most starters.then the solenoid turns it on only when it gets power from the small gauge wires. You can sometimes jump power to the starter solenoid power feed and see if it cranks. Or you can remove the starter and have it tested at a parts store. If the starter is good, it might be a starter relay, or even an ignition switch. Might also be a simple fuse or fusable link.
You test a coil by checking resistance with a DVOM. Either about 1 ohm, or .5 ohms depending on engine size.
An inline spark tester is also a good way to go. You need to prove there is no spark when hot before you change any parts.I’ve seen banjo bolts on turbo charger oil lines, oil filter housings, and oil cooler lines. Got any of those? Do an oil pressure test at the oil pressure sensor if it’s good,and you see oil on the camshafts on the top of the head, go ahead and drive the car. Maybe it came off the water pump, but I really doubt it. Just make sure oil and coolant is flowing and move on.
Does the car start? Sounds like it does. If it starts, your ignition switch is fine. Power is going to the computer.
You might want to get some estimates on repair vs replace with used transmission, vs. rebuild. I’m not sure if the transmission needs to be removed to fix the shift lever. But I suspect it does.
So do you have 150 psi without operating the compressor? Is the clutch stuck, and turning the compressor even without the engagement solenoid being energised?
If not, then it’s severely overcharged, no matter who did it.
Low side pressure should be 35 psi, high side around 150 psi.
Engine off, both sides will equalize to around 70 psi.An online spark tester between the distributor and spark plug wire might also give you a test. For some reason I mistakenly thought you had coil on plug ignition.
P0300 means multiple cylinder misfire. If the check engine light flashes, does it only happen at low rpm?
If it does I would start looking for vacuum leaks, .
If it is the same all the time, try to unplug the low voltage plugs on top of the coil one by one to see if the rpm changes, or engine slows down. If nothing slows down, then you found a dead cylinder. Maybe #3. Could be as simple as a spark plug or coil pack, but don’t change stuff unless you can prove bad. Swapping the parts onto a good cylinder and checking if the problem moves is one way to do this.