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That’s how these forums work. Eric can’t answer all the questions, but if we can keep this thread going other people with more experience might be able to help.
Most of us don’t do transmission work, and most bad transmissions I’ve seen had issues with slipping bands or weak torque converters. Forget the transmission for now. Could be an issue with timing advance or IAC valve responding too slowly. If you turn the Ac on does the issue go away? Ac often makes the engine idle faster. Other options for this kind of hesitation might be fuel pressure or even battery problems.
Try putting a lock washer on the replacement bolt or use a lock nut. You could weld the bolt to the fender some day when you get a welder.
So, with the engine on you can’t turn the steering wheel more than 1/4 turn, but with the engine off you get full travel? If so, we may be looking at issues in the rack, but definitely the pump is bad if it’s making grinding sounds. If you can still turn the wheel while the engine is on even though it’s hard, then it’s just the pump.
Once you use a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole to find top dead center, or the highest point of piston travel, You can use a paint marker to mark your main crank pulley with top dead center and make a second mark at 15 degrees behind tdc. Multiply the diameter of the pulley by .13 to get the distance behind tdc. 10″ pulley the 15* mark is 1 5/16″ to the right of tdc. 250 mm diameter is 33 mm to the right of tdc.
A dowel or screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole can allow you to find tdc or top dead center, and mark the main crank pulley with paint.
Before you do anything else, do you know if it is getting spark? does the exhaust smell like fuel?
If you don’t have fuel,
the video sounds like a relay is powered intermittently, or isn’t receiving enough power. Look for the main relay for the ecm/ fuel injection. Pull the relay out and check for 12 v DC power key on. the control and it’s ground should be diagonally opposite, and the other pins are the power feed. You can check both circuits. Then use a 9v battery and jumper wires to simulate the control on the relay. See if it clicks once and holds. You want continuity on the contacts the power for the car engine goes through, the high current circuit.
The fl30 for ignition is a 30 amp fusible link, a fuse that controls several systems, so it’s hard to go by that without a wiring diagram. I’ll look on nicoclub.com/fsm/Stanza for a diagram later today.Idle air control valve lets air past the throttle to increase engine speed. If you already have a vacuum leak, that’s also letting air past the throttle and into the engine, increasing engine speed. Stopping the IAC, or the leak will lower rpm at idle.
Check for leaks in the evap system too. Might have missed a stuck vent solenoid during the smoke test. You can also use a vacuum pump or blow through the lines to test solenoids, see if they open or close.Looks like you have the torque app. Try graphing different sensors, even the bank 2 sensors. My Ford reads the sensors as 1.1 & 2.1. You should see the upstream o2 switch and the rear o2 flat line. A/F we sensors should show different voltages but not two flat lines. That’s probably an issue with the data selection in the app rather than your vehicle.
The compressor clutch is normally activated by the high pressure switch, and can also be deactivated by the low pressure switch. If you are low on refrigerant, the low pressure switch shuts down the compressor, first intermittently, then as the pressures get lower, permanently.
Sounds similar to what you described.In Dallas TX, Autozone uses a very basic scanner with no ABS capabilities, but O’Reilly often has a better scanner. Try a few more auto parts stores, in case some have better scanners than others. Also some brake shops will scan codes for free. It doesn’t hurt to ask.
451Mopar is right. It’ll be cheaper to put a matching new tire into this set, since they probably have more than 50% remaining tread. If you change brands, most shops recommend replacing at least two tires which is often more expensive. Also, most used tires do not last very long. They are often sold with around 30% useable tread remaining, and sometimes come with irregular wear from the old vehicle. Let’s hope your dealer can give you credit toward a new tire if you bring the old one in.