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Yes. I tried it in gear with my foot on the gas and brake. I followed normal procedure for engine mount diag. I didn’t see any excessive movement in any particular mount, but like I said the drive train has 6 mounts. If 1 out of 6 mounts is bad, the other mounts will probably restrict any excessive movement.
When the weather breaks I’ll try to take a look at the rear mount.
The car has 180k on it. Ii wouldn’t doubt it if these were the original mounts.
The manufacturer estimates a10 year life span.This test won’t really help me cause the problem exists all through the rpm range. It’s more prominent under heavy load.
The engine moves forward when in reverse. In a horizontally mounted drive train the engine will always move the opposite direction of the wheels (ie Newton’s third law). This makes me suspect the rear engine mount. When in Park, neutral, and drive the engine is reading on that mount, but in reverse the engine twists forward and has very little load on rear mount.
This is my current theory.
Like I said, I didn’t see excessive movement in the drive train, but that may just be because the 5 other mounts are restricting movement.
Of course the rear mount is not in a very convenient spot so I’m gonna wait till the weather gets above 20 degrees to check it out.
Since this is not definitive I’m still open to any other theories or suggestions.
I feel like I need to say I mean no disrespect college man. I value your input . I’ve been a fan of yours for a while (no homo lol)The balancer/pulley is all metal. There isn’t any rubber to seperate. It’s there a way to confirm whether the balancer is the issue other than just a visual inspection?
If it were a balancer issue, why would it vibrate in Park and drive, but not reverse?Well I’m not sure when I’ll be around the car. As I indicated earlier, I’m just kinda picking your brains for a friend
I have spark on all four plugs. I understand what you are saying. This is why I’m on here asking advice.
I don’t remember what the resistance was on the primary coil (the one mounted on the top of the drivers wheel well). I had a trouble shooting tree and the primary checked out. I wanna say it was 1.5 ohms.
I kinda stopped there though cause I had speak at all for plugs.
Where is the secondary coil? Is that in the distributor? How do I check that?It has the ignition coil separate from the distributor. It has a strong blue spark so I doubt it’s an ignition issue. I did double check it with my Multimeter though
It’s possible. I remember reading something about it in Mitchell” a while ago. A coworker was trying to diagnose an Odyssey with similar issues. I would call the dealer and see if your car requires it.
I’d like to get a Corded one so I don’t have worry about charging batteries. I used to have a Corded half inch drive. It was a quarter of the cost and not too heavy.
Checking the resistance of an o2 sensor is a reliable and common way to diagnose. I would call a Honda dealer with your Vin number. There were a few early 2000 Odysseys that had issues like this. Many times a software update fixed it.
I would do a bit more diagnosing before making a decision.
I’m kind of confused. You said the pump doesn’t turn on when it should, but then you said in order to keep it inflated you turn the pump off.I would recommend getting the rotors turned. That way you have a clean level surface for those new pads.
The mechanical thermostat (in the metal hose elbow) opens to allow Coolant to flow to the radiator which(through convection) uses air to cool the fluid. If there is not enough air flow at the radiator, the fan turns on. So, even though most manufacturers put the fan switch on the block, having the sensor on the radiator performs the same task.
Did you replace/resurface the rotors and pads? If they were dragging they may have gotten over heated and become “glazed. ” this would effect the component’s performance. If there is a glazing of the pad surface this may account for the temperature differences. That being said, many other variables could cause this (tire pressure, tread wear, worn struts/suspension components, etc). If you’re driving it around the block before each test, one. side is going to be hotter than the other. This is because; if you’re only making left turns, the brakes on the right side are working harder and will, therfore, be hotter.
Adjust each side with the wheels on. At one click you just want the pads kissing the rotor. Male sure the pads aren’t dragging when you release the parking brake handle.