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Forgot to mention… About my myth on putting the car on N, this will also save a few dollars on gas if you’re stopped. Think of it as with your AC compressor, or a supercharger. Now I use the N a lot more after that… Well, if my car were out the shop (EVAP related issues, I posted that somewhere else in the Forum)
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=72832]
The Higher octane is better for your car (burns better), even though your car only needs 87…. I can’t remember if you have explained this one….
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Hmm, I remember that I’ve read something about that… I guess that higher octane allows you to have more boost as the gasoline will not auto-ignite due to air pressure/temperature. Also they tend to use higher quality additives on Premium gasoline.[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=72832]
The Higher octane is better for your car (burns better), even though your car only needs 87…. I can’t remember if you have explained this one….
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Hmm, I remember that I’ve read something about that… I guess that higher octane allows you to have more boost as the gasoline will not auto-ignite due to air pressure/temperature. Also they tend to use higher quality additives on Premium gasoline.Thanks for the support… And, yes, I know that I have to get the experience, but I’m a driver, not a technician, and I was seeing it from the do-it-yourself perspective. Anyway, I’m seriously consireding sell that poor car and use the bus a bit until I can buy something else, probably a Subaru Impreza… hehehe Gotta love that car.
Now, back onto the theme, right now, my car is on a shop for a diagnosis for that problem. As you said, I should not “guess” what the failure is, so I’m leaving it to the technicians.Thanks for the support… And, yes, I know that I have to get the experience, but I’m a driver, not a technician, and I was seeing it from the do-it-yourself perspective. Anyway, I’m seriously consireding sell that poor car and use the bus a bit until I can buy something else, probably a Subaru Impreza… hehehe Gotta love that car.
Now, back onto the theme, right now, my car is on a shop for a diagnosis for that problem. As you said, I should not “guess” what the failure is, so I’m leaving it to the technicians.Another update:
I fill the tank again, just to see how much improvement holding the gas to the floor did. So, today the problem insisted, in fact, the pedal trick didn’t help. I guess I’ll change the EVAP valve, but I’m a bit confused… looking for some pictures of it, I figured out that the valve in my model is at the engine compartment, near the brake fluid canister. Google says it’s at the back, aside the replacement wheel, behind the left rear tire. So, which one is for my 2000 Elantra? Is there two of these valves? If so, which one should I replace? It is true that these cars have a disfunctional EVAP system that cloaks easily?
In fact, how does the EVAP Evaporative Emission Control System works?Another update:
I fill the tank again, just to see how much improvement holding the gas to the floor did. So, today the problem insisted, in fact, the pedal trick didn’t help. I guess I’ll change the EVAP valve, but I’m a bit confused… looking for some pictures of it, I figured out that the valve in my model is at the engine compartment, near the brake fluid canister. Google says it’s at the back, aside the replacement wheel, behind the left rear tire. So, which one is for my 2000 Elantra? Is there two of these valves? If so, which one should I replace? It is true that these cars have a disfunctional EVAP system that cloaks easily?
In fact, how does the EVAP Evaporative Emission Control System works?Well, having the gas pedal to the floor did somewhat helped. In fact, the time it took to start was quite lower, but still longer than expected. Curiously, the car responded a bit better during normal circulation, so I guess it helped. Thanks. I was about to get the code for my “Check Engine” light, but my tester died months ago. Was bluetooth, and got burned up. If I guess properly, it may probably be something with the evap system. It makes sense to me…
Well, having the gas pedal to the floor did somewhat helped. In fact, the time it took to start was quite lower, but still longer than expected. Curiously, the car responded a bit better during normal circulation, so I guess it helped. Thanks. I was about to get the code for my “Check Engine” light, but my tester died months ago. Was bluetooth, and got burned up. If I guess properly, it may probably be something with the evap system. It makes sense to me…