[Jim]

Try a half moon box wrench (aka obstruction wrench).

That area is really cramped, I was able to do it using a combination wrench and a box wrench that I bent in a vise for access. Many, many fractional turns to loosen and retighten. Magnet tool is really helpful as shown in the video.

Attachments:

• halfmoonwrench.jpg

[Jim]

Holy effing S, I just did this repair last weekend. 2000 Nissan Altima, which has similar hardware.

I would have to agree with Eric’s assessment that the job is not for the fainthearted. I had a quote for ~$750 “if we don’t break all this stuff along the way and bring the cost to $1200″ and Nissan and another mechanic advised me to start looking for another car so… staying dirty.

Just thought I would add a few notes here to help others prep for the job. Strong extendable magnet tool is an absolute requirement, the screw removal method Eric showed is the best method I found.

Regarding fastener access:
– Most of the fasteners [2 nuts (on the studs) and hex cap screws} holding the manifold to the engine are accessible with a standard 12mm combination wrench. Outer ones are reachable with a standard 3/8″ ratchet (flex/swivel socket or universal joint and 1/4” drive sizes are nice too)

– Two lower screws are next to impossible without some specialty tools, I would recommend picking up a 10mm-12mm box end half-moon/obstruction wrench before you start the job; this is a really obscure tool, especially in 12mm, but if you get in there you will understand the need, likely what the engineer(s) had in mind

– I ended up bending the 12mm end of a box wrench in a vice to conform to the shape I needed, that worked for me because 12mm half-moon wrenches are not carried at my local auto stores on Saturday night… and I had to report to work on Monday.

Adjustments to Eric’s procedure:

– Removing the lower part of the manifold is unnecessary. Once the 10 fasteners on the gasket joint are removed, and fasteners on both the link (bracket) on the lower belt side of the engine and bracket under the throttle body are removed, the manifold is free to move.

– The studs on my engine had a hex end that I could loosen with a ratchet and socket, easier than the vise grips

– Be prepared to do some scraping to remove that old gasket, Eric’s seems to have come off fairly easily, mine was really stuck on in some places and that surface is hard to access with the manifold slightly constrained in position still. I would recommend getting a thin, long handled scraper to hit up both sides of that 1-2 inch gap. You may want some gasket removal solution too.

Good luck, it can be done!

[Author]

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