Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Here are the pics of the air tube clips, absolute nightmares to put back together. Anybody have any experience with them, and tips for easy un-clipping and putting back on ?
The only positive thing I can say is, these things are bloody tight clampers 😛
Here are the pics of the air tube clips, absolute nightmares to put back together. Anybody have any experience with them, and tips for easy un-clipping and putting back on ?
The only positive thing I can say is, these things are bloody tight clampers 😛
1. Not yet, I’m picking up some throttle body cleaner today and a toothbrush 🙂 The clips on the air hose are a total git. Easy enough to take off, but putting back on not so much, its a clip that needs to be stretched all the way over the lip and dropped in to secure it, not easy with a flat blade, and feel like i could be causing damage should it slip :S I will take pics of it later to show you.
2. Might give that a go, however i did notice a YouTube video of someone taking apart a throttle body, and that gasket had a lip sticking out of it, i guess to make it easier for removal, so more than likely not a problem.
3. The same YouTube video shown me how to unclip it, i was being silly. Pull the red tab out until it clicks, then hold down another tab on the outside of the connector, push up, then pull back and hey presto, out it came no hassle. Looked fine too.
4. Yeah, didn’t think this is something that should be touched. I believe its a “Stop” adjustment, so not touching it 🙂
5. I will give that a go 🙂
I have also been researching drive by wire systems ….. and found countless posts over the internet of many people having very similar problems to mine, in which their is a delay between a throttle press and a reaction from the engine. It sounds like it could be perfectly normal for my car …. so I’m going to check to see if my dads car is cable driven, which would make a lot of sense then. Some people mentioned ECU/Firmware upgrades that improve throttle response, so may look into that, but i don’t think Ford dealers typically like doing this ….. (I will also compare ECU version numbers between mine and my dads car).
I also read that some Ford throttle bodies have some sort of special coating on them, and that I shouldn’t use any throttle cleaner on them as it removes this. Typically these have labels on them saying not to do so, so I am going to check mine tonight to be on the safe side.
Might feel a bit guilty if this all ends up being “normal” for the drive by wire system my car uses :S
1. Not yet, I’m picking up some throttle body cleaner today and a toothbrush 🙂 The clips on the air hose are a total git. Easy enough to take off, but putting back on not so much, its a clip that needs to be stretched all the way over the lip and dropped in to secure it, not easy with a flat blade, and feel like i could be causing damage should it slip :S I will take pics of it later to show you.
2. Might give that a go, however i did notice a YouTube video of someone taking apart a throttle body, and that gasket had a lip sticking out of it, i guess to make it easier for removal, so more than likely not a problem.
3. The same YouTube video shown me how to unclip it, i was being silly. Pull the red tab out until it clicks, then hold down another tab on the outside of the connector, push up, then pull back and hey presto, out it came no hassle. Looked fine too.
4. Yeah, didn’t think this is something that should be touched. I believe its a “Stop” adjustment, so not touching it 🙂
5. I will give that a go 🙂
I have also been researching drive by wire systems ….. and found countless posts over the internet of many people having very similar problems to mine, in which their is a delay between a throttle press and a reaction from the engine. It sounds like it could be perfectly normal for my car …. so I’m going to check to see if my dads car is cable driven, which would make a lot of sense then. Some people mentioned ECU/Firmware upgrades that improve throttle response, so may look into that, but i don’t think Ford dealers typically like doing this ….. (I will also compare ECU version numbers between mine and my dads car).
I also read that some Ford throttle bodies have some sort of special coating on them, and that I shouldn’t use any throttle cleaner on them as it removes this. Typically these have labels on them saying not to do so, so I am going to check mine tonight to be on the safe side.
Might feel a bit guilty if this all ends up being “normal” for the drive by wire system my car uses :S
Thanks for the replies guys. I did actually get an O2 socket and tried to use it a couple of days ago …. but I never felt like a had a good grip on it so didn’t go ahead with removal, and I don’t think that’s the problem now anyway (phew !).
I’l be sticking to my plan of servicing it first before doing anything else, I have already been giving it a good blast (2 hour journey) … but sadly it remains the same. Trying my dads car again, the response from the pedal is a huge difference, instantaneous even.
I couldn’t help myself, so I went to have a quick look at the throttle body connector, just in the hope’s something might stand out. I unclipped the red connector and tried pulling it off, but the thing just will not budge. It looks like something that should slide off quite easily but its just not happening, it can wiggle but not retract. Here are some pics –
I’m not saying there is anything wrong, but I did just want to have a quick peek, didnt expect it to be seemingly welded on 😛
glad it’s looking better, sounds like you as i said before you just need a good intake cleaning. By the way i know you said the car hesitates or doesn’t start when pushing the accelerator all the way down. That’s because not on all models, but most when you push the accelerator all the way to the floor it puts the car in “clear flood mode” and kills the fuel so it wont start. (This is used if somehow the engine gets flooded and you need spark but no fuel to burn off whats left.) anywho, keep us posted with progress!
Ah that’s good to hear then, although any idea why my car might give the same impression sometimes when starting up ? Its likely the same issue I’m having that causes it but just thought id see if there’s any other potential reasons.
Will keep you guys updated, I’m not letting this one past me 🙂
Edit – And I just had 2 instances of the car performing a “clear flood mode” like start up, if I hit the pedal and let go very quickly, car fires up immediately.
Edit 2 – Couple more observations. Looking at the other side of the throttle body, i found what appears to be an adjustment bolt (not something i would touch unless i knew exactly what i was doing), and also what appears to be some gasket material sticking out ? Should this be ?
Thanks for the replies guys. I did actually get an O2 socket and tried to use it a couple of days ago …. but I never felt like a had a good grip on it so didn’t go ahead with removal, and I don’t think that’s the problem now anyway (phew !).
I’l be sticking to my plan of servicing it first before doing anything else, I have already been giving it a good blast (2 hour journey) … but sadly it remains the same. Trying my dads car again, the response from the pedal is a huge difference, instantaneous even.
I couldn’t help myself, so I went to have a quick look at the throttle body connector, just in the hope’s something might stand out. I unclipped the red connector and tried pulling it off, but the thing just will not budge. It looks like something that should slide off quite easily but its just not happening, it can wiggle but not retract. Here are some pics –
I’m not saying there is anything wrong, but I did just want to have a quick peek, didnt expect it to be seemingly welded on 😛
glad it’s looking better, sounds like you as i said before you just need a good intake cleaning. By the way i know you said the car hesitates or doesn’t start when pushing the accelerator all the way down. That’s because not on all models, but most when you push the accelerator all the way to the floor it puts the car in “clear flood mode” and kills the fuel so it wont start. (This is used if somehow the engine gets flooded and you need spark but no fuel to burn off whats left.) anywho, keep us posted with progress!
Ah that’s good to hear then, although any idea why my car might give the same impression sometimes when starting up ? Its likely the same issue I’m having that causes it but just thought id see if there’s any other potential reasons.
Will keep you guys updated, I’m not letting this one past me 🙂
Edit – And I just had 2 instances of the car performing a “clear flood mode” like start up, if I hit the pedal and let go very quickly, car fires up immediately.
Edit 2 – Couple more observations. Looking at the other side of the throttle body, i found what appears to be an adjustment bolt (not something i would touch unless i knew exactly what i was doing), and also what appears to be some gasket material sticking out ? Should this be ?
Had my cousin look at the car, hooked up a real fancy OBD scan tool (I geeked out hard :P), some error codes were found, 1 to do with a steering angle sensor and a couple of others, but nothing that would have affected my issue (and he mentioned they were most likely caused by the battery going flat). Everything checked out great with the engine.
Performed tests on various sensors, absolutely everything was working correctly within their expected voltages etc, including the O2 sensors. He checked the battery, which was working perfectly also.
Basically couldn’t find anything wrong with it, so he cleared the codes and said to just give the car a bloody good run, possibly blasting any dormant crap that may be inside from being stored for a couple of months. He mentioned a quick first step to replace the spark plugs (and other service items) to see if that has an affect, and luckily he can get me them cheap because of his job. He mentioned that sometimes pedal sensors can go bad because valeters have been spraying what they use to clean around that sensor area, and it can get inside and cause issues.
After the codes were cleared, the engine fired up the fastest I have ever seen it, so for now i think I’m going to give this puppy a great big blast on the road and see how it goes 🙂
Had my cousin look at the car, hooked up a real fancy OBD scan tool (I geeked out hard :P), some error codes were found, 1 to do with a steering angle sensor and a couple of others, but nothing that would have affected my issue (and he mentioned they were most likely caused by the battery going flat). Everything checked out great with the engine.
Performed tests on various sensors, absolutely everything was working correctly within their expected voltages etc, including the O2 sensors. He checked the battery, which was working perfectly also.
Basically couldn’t find anything wrong with it, so he cleared the codes and said to just give the car a bloody good run, possibly blasting any dormant crap that may be inside from being stored for a couple of months. He mentioned a quick first step to replace the spark plugs (and other service items) to see if that has an affect, and luckily he can get me them cheap because of his job. He mentioned that sometimes pedal sensors can go bad because valeters have been spraying what they use to clean around that sensor area, and it can get inside and cause issues.
After the codes were cleared, the engine fired up the fastest I have ever seen it, so for now i think I’m going to give this puppy a great big blast on the road and see how it goes 🙂
Thanks for the information/tips guys, i will give those things a bash and report back. For the throttle cleaning, how delicate do I have to be in regards to the cleaner I’m using and wiping it away ? I dont have any cleaner at the moment, any idea if this stuff is good for the job ? Wynn’s Fuel Injection & Carburettor Cleaner 500ml
I did intend to clean the battery terminals, but when I checked them, they looked immaculate anyway so left them, may still do it anyway now though (I do have a nice tool for it).
A very brief check of the connections, everything looked fine but it was only brief, I will give them another look (the connector to the pedal is a git to get out without removing the lower fascia).
I also tried taking off the O2 sensor last night, but the damn thing feels rusted on, its a tough bugger, so I left it until I had more time to sink my teeth into it. Using Torque App I checked to see what loop the engine was currently running in, on start, it was open loop, and not long after that (10-20 seconds) it went into closed loop and stayed that way (from a cold start). All normal from what I see. Wouldn’t a faulty O2 sensor cause it to go into open loop at all times ?
Edit – Another thing I will mention, sometimes (its rare) the car requires a long crank before it fires up. I can recreate this by holding down the accelerator pedal all the way, then starting the engine. As soon as I let go, the car fires up no problem. On my dads Focus, car starts immediately even with the pedal pushed down, and of course the revs fly straight up 😛
1. The hesitation– does it happen while driving, at idle or both?
I mainly see the hesitation from pulling away/reversing from idle, and stopped at lights/roundabout etc. I have noticed sometimes that, there’s a spot where if i very lightly press on the accelerator, the revs actually drop, if i hold it at that point, it does slowly rise back up.
Thanks for the information/tips guys, i will give those things a bash and report back. For the throttle cleaning, how delicate do I have to be in regards to the cleaner I’m using and wiping it away ? I dont have any cleaner at the moment, any idea if this stuff is good for the job ? Wynn’s Fuel Injection & Carburettor Cleaner 500ml
I did intend to clean the battery terminals, but when I checked them, they looked immaculate anyway so left them, may still do it anyway now though (I do have a nice tool for it).
A very brief check of the connections, everything looked fine but it was only brief, I will give them another look (the connector to the pedal is a git to get out without removing the lower fascia).
I also tried taking off the O2 sensor last night, but the damn thing feels rusted on, its a tough bugger, so I left it until I had more time to sink my teeth into it. Using Torque App I checked to see what loop the engine was currently running in, on start, it was open loop, and not long after that (10-20 seconds) it went into closed loop and stayed that way (from a cold start). All normal from what I see. Wouldn’t a faulty O2 sensor cause it to go into open loop at all times ?
Edit – Another thing I will mention, sometimes (its rare) the car requires a long crank before it fires up. I can recreate this by holding down the accelerator pedal all the way, then starting the engine. As soon as I let go, the car fires up no problem. On my dads Focus, car starts immediately even with the pedal pushed down, and of course the revs fly straight up 😛
1. The hesitation– does it happen while driving, at idle or both?
I mainly see the hesitation from pulling away/reversing from idle, and stopped at lights/roundabout etc. I have noticed sometimes that, there’s a spot where if i very lightly press on the accelerator, the revs actually drop, if i hold it at that point, it does slowly rise back up.
Its an idea based on what Torque was reporting ….. but I would have thought a CEL would appear and some codes related to it, so its a bit strange (found a post from another forum saying that sometimes, a very small fault with the sensors wont flag up anything to trigger a CEL or Codes). Might just be a test Torque cant run on my vehicle so reports it as failed.
However i did find this while looking this morning …..
Connected to nothing, and not able to see anything that it would clearly connect to (maybe it doesn’t ? Breather tube ?), and its quite short. I have no idea what this hose is :S
Edit – Nevermind, a quick part number search suggest its a Water Drain tube, so I think its normal.
Its an idea based on what Torque was reporting ….. but I would have thought a CEL would appear and some codes related to it, so its a bit strange (found a post from another forum saying that sometimes, a very small fault with the sensors wont flag up anything to trigger a CEL or Codes). Might just be a test Torque cant run on my vehicle so reports it as failed.
However i did find this while looking this morning …..
Connected to nothing, and not able to see anything that it would clearly connect to (maybe it doesn’t ? Breather tube ?), and its quite short. I have no idea what this hose is :S
Edit – Nevermind, a quick part number search suggest its a Water Drain tube, so I think its normal.
Some extra information, might be useful 🙂
Just tried the same test on my dads Focus 2007 1.6 Zetec, his throttle sensor doesn’t show any info until the engine is running, so could only do it with the engine on.
The graph shown a straight line, no dips or raises at all until I pushed on the pedal.
Slowly starting to think my sensor might be OK, but the butterfly valve could be a little stuck, or a vacuum leak is letting air in ….. or this is normal for my type of engine (Duratec).
Edit – And a little bit of extra info, I notice when I turn off the engine on mine, there is what sounds like a “whir down” noise, very obvious from inside the car, this doesn’t happen on my dads car, but again, not sure if its specific to mine, being a different/bigger engine.
