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Cheers, I think you are right, the more I drive it and pay attention to it, it seems like that would be the cause. Sometimes the gear change is smooth as butter, sometimes a bit notchy, regardless of revs.
Il get the cables checked and see what the garage says, is there any obvious signs they are worn/stretched visibly ?
And the Ford Dealer verdict is …..
Nothing wrong with it, they couldn’t find anything. No codes, nothing stood out, diagnostics were all good, took it on 2 separate test drives, nothing. Thankfully they didn’t charge me for it (+1 respect for the dealer), so I’m left questioning myself, wether its just a new car that I need to get used to (although my dads does stand out as being more responsive), or its just the very early stages of a problem (the dealer suggested to just keep using the car, until it becomes an even bigger, more obvious problem).
Feel like I’ve wasted everyone’s time on this, so I apologise 🙁 I think I will just have to get running with it and get used to it.
Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciated it 🙂
And the Ford Dealer verdict is …..
Nothing wrong with it, they couldn’t find anything. No codes, nothing stood out, diagnostics were all good, took it on 2 separate test drives, nothing. Thankfully they didn’t charge me for it (+1 respect for the dealer), so I’m left questioning myself, wether its just a new car that I need to get used to (although my dads does stand out as being more responsive), or its just the very early stages of a problem (the dealer suggested to just keep using the car, until it becomes an even bigger, more obvious problem).
Feel like I’ve wasted everyone’s time on this, so I apologise 🙁 I think I will just have to get running with it and get used to it.
Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciated it 🙂
I agree Eric, I’m really bad with the electrical/voltage side of things …. which this seems to be, so I’ve booked it in with a dealer next Thursday to get their diagnostics done plus opinions. I will update you all next week 🙂 Hopefully with the cause !
I agree Eric, I’m really bad with the electrical/voltage side of things …. which this seems to be, so I’ve booked it in with a dealer next Thursday to get their diagnostics done plus opinions. I will update you all next week 🙂 Hopefully with the cause !
I gave it another good clean today to see if it would make a change, sadly not, however I did notice the weird electrical noise I could hear was actually coming from the potentiometer on the throttle body (and as I was cleaning the butterfly valve, it slightly changed the noise). It sounds exactly like this – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvwJBM4jzSU
I did try to use my dads car to see if he had the same, but his throttle doesn’t seem to engage until the engine is running, so I cant really hear it over the engine. When switched off, I do catch what sounds like the same noise from the throttle until it turns off.
Do we know if this is normal noise ?
I gave it another good clean today to see if it would make a change, sadly not, however I did notice the weird electrical noise I could hear was actually coming from the potentiometer on the throttle body (and as I was cleaning the butterfly valve, it slightly changed the noise). It sounds exactly like this – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvwJBM4jzSU
I did try to use my dads car to see if he had the same, but his throttle doesn’t seem to engage until the engine is running, so I cant really hear it over the engine. When switched off, I do catch what sounds like the same noise from the throttle until it turns off.
Do we know if this is normal noise ?
Finally got around to cleaning the throttle body. On the front I could see some slight carbon build up, and when I had my dad press on the pedal (ignition on, engine off), the back of it was absolutely caked in the stuff. Lightly sprayed some throttle cleaner on it and gently tried cleaning with the tooth brush, you could feel just how sticky the stuff was, tooth brush was completely black by the end of it, and I don’t think I managed to get much off it, and I didn’t want to put too much force on the butterfly either.
Wiped up, put it all back together, and started the engine, fired up pretty fast, revs flew up and sharply dropped to the point where it almost stalled, but I hit the pedal and it managed to stabilize, however it appears I have stupidly created a new problem, with the revs not dropping immediately, instead sitting at where I had it for about a second or 2, before plummeting down to normal idle speed. Doesn’t seem to have made an affect on the response either.
I should have taken pictures really, but should the back of the butterfly valve (and chamber) really have that much carbon crap covering it ?
Another thing I noticed, which while I had the air tube off took the opportunity to get a better look into where the air filter sits, is the little sponge that I believe is PCV air, I noticed when I removed this quite a bit of oil deposits sitting in the bottom (the sponge itself didn’t seem too bad). Should this be there ?
Almost at my wits end, might be time to just take it to a dealer and hope they don’t rip me off or say they’ve fixed it when they haven’t.
I may take a look at the MAP sensor when I get the time too.
Finally got around to cleaning the throttle body. On the front I could see some slight carbon build up, and when I had my dad press on the pedal (ignition on, engine off), the back of it was absolutely caked in the stuff. Lightly sprayed some throttle cleaner on it and gently tried cleaning with the tooth brush, you could feel just how sticky the stuff was, tooth brush was completely black by the end of it, and I don’t think I managed to get much off it, and I didn’t want to put too much force on the butterfly either.
Wiped up, put it all back together, and started the engine, fired up pretty fast, revs flew up and sharply dropped to the point where it almost stalled, but I hit the pedal and it managed to stabilize, however it appears I have stupidly created a new problem, with the revs not dropping immediately, instead sitting at where I had it for about a second or 2, before plummeting down to normal idle speed. Doesn’t seem to have made an affect on the response either.
I should have taken pictures really, but should the back of the butterfly valve (and chamber) really have that much carbon crap covering it ?
Another thing I noticed, which while I had the air tube off took the opportunity to get a better look into where the air filter sits, is the little sponge that I believe is PCV air, I noticed when I removed this quite a bit of oil deposits sitting in the bottom (the sponge itself didn’t seem too bad). Should this be there ?
Almost at my wits end, might be time to just take it to a dealer and hope they don’t rip me off or say they’ve fixed it when they haven’t.
I may take a look at the MAP sensor when I get the time too.
1 quick additional thing I have noticed, the issue is lessened when the engine is cold, but quickly comes back shortly after driving. Might explain why it seemed OK after the service. Throttle cleaning this weekend coming up, may also remove the potentiometer and inspect it for anything obvious 🙂
1 quick additional thing I have noticed, the issue is lessened when the engine is cold, but quickly comes back shortly after driving. Might explain why it seemed OK after the service. Throttle cleaning this weekend coming up, may also remove the potentiometer and inspect it for anything obvious 🙂
[quote=”JTF” post=101834]I hope the cleaning helps….but the throttle bodies are an issue with that car.
The air intake duct retainers can be removed by inserting a small screw driver under the clamp “pull over”, twist the screw driver and the clamp will pop open. To re clamp I use a CV boot clamp tool…Ford has a special tool for Removal and replacement…. of course.[/quote]
Thanks, hopefully it isn’t the throttle body (expensive part ….), I will see what a clean can do for it.
It appears that it may use “CLIC” clamps ? At least they look very similar and there are a variety of tools for them.
[quote=”JTF” post=101834]I hope the cleaning helps….but the throttle bodies are an issue with that car.
The air intake duct retainers can be removed by inserting a small screw driver under the clamp “pull over”, twist the screw driver and the clamp will pop open. To re clamp I use a CV boot clamp tool…Ford has a special tool for Removal and replacement…. of course.[/quote]
Thanks, hopefully it isn’t the throttle body (expensive part ….), I will see what a clean can do for it.
It appears that it may use “CLIC” clamps ? At least they look very similar and there are a variety of tools for them.
Dont get me wrong Eric, I’m just pre planning for the worst case scenario (I typically do that), so I’m aware of potential costs/work involved, I haven’t got the money to start swapping out parts either so I’m forced into the diagnostic route 🙂 Although I do go a bit overboard with it sometimes.
Today I did the service, replaced oil filter, oil, spark plugs, air filter and pollen filter (this was a total sod to replace :angry:) and on first fire up, everything seemed gravy ! Idle was stable, and the throttle response genuinely seemed great, similar to my dads. I thought I had finally bumped this one on the head.
I then took it for an hours drive, and really it just felt the same. When I came to a stop, then tried to accelerate, I still had to overly apply pressure to the pedal for the revs to start rising, and there is still about a second delay for the revs to even move after the pedal press. Guess I’m back to square one again 🙁
The Torque app does show an uneven throttle position (apparently the reading is taken from the manifold), at idle its constantly fluctuating between a couple of percentages, which does not happen on my dads (he also has a Drive By Wire system).
I still have the option to clean the butterfly valve, which I will do when I find good enough pliers that pinch and click those gits back in to place without me damaging something (the only reason being that, sometimes the revs “jump” when I lightly hold the pedal, which makes me think the first few movements of the throttle are held back by sticky crap, or there is some electronic issue, but then I have no codes to support this :().
I will keep you guys informed, any ideas to take it from hear would be really appreciated 🙂
Dont get me wrong Eric, I’m just pre planning for the worst case scenario (I typically do that), so I’m aware of potential costs/work involved, I haven’t got the money to start swapping out parts either so I’m forced into the diagnostic route 🙂 Although I do go a bit overboard with it sometimes.
Today I did the service, replaced oil filter, oil, spark plugs, air filter and pollen filter (this was a total sod to replace :angry:) and on first fire up, everything seemed gravy ! Idle was stable, and the throttle response genuinely seemed great, similar to my dads. I thought I had finally bumped this one on the head.
I then took it for an hours drive, and really it just felt the same. When I came to a stop, then tried to accelerate, I still had to overly apply pressure to the pedal for the revs to start rising, and there is still about a second delay for the revs to even move after the pedal press. Guess I’m back to square one again 🙁
The Torque app does show an uneven throttle position (apparently the reading is taken from the manifold), at idle its constantly fluctuating between a couple of percentages, which does not happen on my dads (he also has a Drive By Wire system).
I still have the option to clean the butterfly valve, which I will do when I find good enough pliers that pinch and click those gits back in to place without me damaging something (the only reason being that, sometimes the revs “jump” when I lightly hold the pedal, which makes me think the first few movements of the throttle are held back by sticky crap, or there is some electronic issue, but then I have no codes to support this :().
I will keep you guys informed, any ideas to take it from hear would be really appreciated 🙂