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Most of the comments presented hear are of value, and make technical sense. I am late to this conversation but wanted to mention that there are two important steps when doing a brake service, on any vehicle. One is the lubricant that is used to “separate” the components, a component of the “coupled resonance” problem we face in the brake industry. The proper lube, the one endorsed by the majority of OEM’s is Ceramlub-2800. ( https://www.Ceramlub.com ). The second issue is the rust accumulation that can happen on most all surfaces in the system, again, a contributing factor to brake noise issues. You can find “coated” rotors, etc, but that does not cover all the parts that are effected. To handle all the parts simply spray our OE Approved Rotor Conditioner and Assembly Treatment called “the Silencer”. It will leave a layer of “non ferrous” metals (aluminum, moly, graphite and copper) on the surfaces and will seal the parts for air, so no corrosion or rusting can occur. This is not a paint, It will not wash off from water or salt, plus it will keep the parts looking like brand new for years. ( https://www.brakesilencer.com )
Technically Silicone is the wrong products for metal, just look at the MSDS sheets from GE. It was designed to lubricate rubber parts at a max of 400 degrees and for that job it is perfect, because there are no petroleum distillates in it. On the other hand, when you work with metal to metal applications you need solids to separate the parts as they move, a boundary lubricant. Additionally, when silicone get above 475 degrees, it does something called volatilize (vaporize). The oil begin to disappear and convert back to raw silica, which is actually sand. Technically, when Silicone grease is over heated, it turns into a gritty paste and you really don’t want that between two pieces of metal or on a slide pin in a caliper.
If you are looking at anti-seize you have another problem. The most popular products (typical ones at autoparts store), are more that 60% low temperature mineral oil. To that is added about 30% to 45% calcium fluoride powder (talc like substance) as the thickening agent. Finally, 3% to 5% of copper or aluminum is added to give it color and allow them to call it high quality. Again, when the temperature rises above 400 degrees, the oil begins to evaporate and what is left is a pasty white sticky powder that really is good for nothing. I you want to look at what the OE approves for brakes, check out Ceramlub this web site… CeramicBrakeLube. com Hope this is explains it better….
Just transfer the air in your tires over to Nitrogen and you will reduce the pressure change that takes place, either daily or even by season. It also help keep tire pressure more accurate, you will only loose a pound or two every four to five months. Additionally, if you have TPMS, it will help extend they live of the expensive sensors. You can read more about it at… Premier Nitrogen . com . It is our site for selling machines, but you can read all the tech to better understand the reason for doing it. Hope this helps… Gary