Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107463]if the owners manual claims you never have too change fluid its probably one of those sealed assembly transmissions that they say only requires a fluid change under normal driving conditions. what year is your vehicle?[/quote]
1998 Chrysler Concorde, it says the transmission should be changed every 60,000 miles under severe conditions.
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107463]if the owners manual claims you never have too change fluid its probably one of those sealed assembly transmissions that they say only requires a fluid change under normal driving conditions. what year is your vehicle?[/quote]
1998 Chrysler Concorde, it says the transmission should be changed every 60,000 miles under severe conditions.
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107456]i think you will be fine with a simple change and filter change, just don’t do a flush.[/quote]
I’ll plan on having it changed a couple weeks from now. I’m going to use full synthetic ATF +4. Why do these owner’s manuals claim you never have to change the fluid?
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107456]i think you will be fine with a simple change and filter change, just don’t do a flush.[/quote]
I’ll plan on having it changed a couple weeks from now. I’m going to use full synthetic ATF +4. Why do these owner’s manuals claim you never have to change the fluid?
[quote=”ajpd1989″ post=107428]I have a 1993 Plymouth Grand Voyage LE with 3.3L V6 engine and 4-speed automatic transmission.
Just recently it started having an issue with the transmission where if I drive it more than a certain number of miles (about 9), it will spontaneously downshift to first gear and will not upshift at all.
It is rare that I drive that far, as my workplace is only 5.6 miles away, so it doesn’t happen often.At first, this would resolve if I just stopped and restarted the engine, but now it will only go back to shifting normally after letting the engine cool down for a few hours.
I don’t know much about automobile transmissions, but I think old fluid might be at least part of the issue. As far as I know it hasn’t been changed at all and the vehicle has about 124,000 miles on it. When I checked it last night, the level seemed a bit too high, and the fluid had a slightly dark tint and little particles in it.
Does anyone know what the issue is and how serious of a problem it is?[/quote]
Your transmission is going into “limp” mode. That can be caused by several things but I’m guessing the transmission gears are gone at this point. Take it to a specialist and see what they say.
[quote=”ajpd1989″ post=107428]I have a 1993 Plymouth Grand Voyage LE with 3.3L V6 engine and 4-speed automatic transmission.
Just recently it started having an issue with the transmission where if I drive it more than a certain number of miles (about 9), it will spontaneously downshift to first gear and will not upshift at all.
It is rare that I drive that far, as my workplace is only 5.6 miles away, so it doesn’t happen often.At first, this would resolve if I just stopped and restarted the engine, but now it will only go back to shifting normally after letting the engine cool down for a few hours.
I don’t know much about automobile transmissions, but I think old fluid might be at least part of the issue. As far as I know it hasn’t been changed at all and the vehicle has about 124,000 miles on it. When I checked it last night, the level seemed a bit too high, and the fluid had a slightly dark tint and little particles in it.
Does anyone know what the issue is and how serious of a problem it is?[/quote]
Your transmission is going into “limp” mode. That can be caused by several things but I’m guessing the transmission gears are gone at this point. Take it to a specialist and see what they say.
It’s the pump trying to provide fluid at lock, nothing to worry about. Every car I’ve driven, including my parents 2011 CTS, has that noise. Basically the power steering pump is trying to move the wheels more only bad part about this is the fluid mightget hotter than usual.
It’s the pump trying to provide fluid at lock, nothing to worry about. Every car I’ve driven, including my parents 2011 CTS, has that noise. Basically the power steering pump is trying to move the wheels more only bad part about this is the fluid mightget hotter than usual.
[quote=”barneyb” post=107256]There was a owner on here several months ago who found his rear brakes weren’t working. He didn’t notice any difference from the driver’s seat but found the problem when checking the condition of the rear brakes.
The engineers want to make sure that the rear brakes never lock before the fronts. The rears locking first creates an unstable condition and the car will spin. Because of this most the braking action is done by the front brakes.
Think about it, in a panic stop the weight of the car shifts onto the front wheels. With the rear wheels unloaded like that and remembering the engineers never want the rear brakes to lock first, how much work are the rear brakes doing?[/quote]
My old brakes on my Cavalier would get warm but those were drums. How do you check if they work? The parking brake works.
[quote=”barneyb” post=107256]There was a owner on here several months ago who found his rear brakes weren’t working. He didn’t notice any difference from the driver’s seat but found the problem when checking the condition of the rear brakes.
The engineers want to make sure that the rear brakes never lock before the fronts. The rears locking first creates an unstable condition and the car will spin. Because of this most the braking action is done by the front brakes.
Think about it, in a panic stop the weight of the car shifts onto the front wheels. With the rear wheels unloaded like that and remembering the engineers never want the rear brakes to lock first, how much work are the rear brakes doing?[/quote]
My old brakes on my Cavalier would get warm but those were drums. How do you check if they work? The parking brake works.
[quote=”pittspeng” post=106296]You can replace one side and be fine. It’s not a wearable item like struts, brakes, or tires. Almost all the shops out there will replace the damaged one and you’re good (with an alignment of course). As for what Barneyb mentioned happened to him, sometimes that happens. When parts are old and weak, they can go at any time. For ball joints and tie rods, they pretty much go when they go. There isn’t much you can do about it. If you’re having your mechanic do it, I’d suggest having the other side done too. Most shops charge by the hour (some by the job). If he charges by the hour, both tie rods can be done within an hour on a lift. If he charges by the job, just getting the bad tie rod replaced will be sufficient.[/quote]I’ll probably wait then, the other side is fine as I saw, it’s either replace one side now and don’t have to worry about ramming into a car when it fails, rather than waiting for another month to replace two at the same time and risk having the bad one fail. I’ll have the alignment done somewhere else because they don’t have a machine for it, if I have it done I want it done right.
[quote=”pittspeng” post=106296]You can replace one side and be fine. It’s not a wearable item like struts, brakes, or tires. Almost all the shops out there will replace the damaged one and you’re good (with an alignment of course). As for what Barneyb mentioned happened to him, sometimes that happens. When parts are old and weak, they can go at any time. For ball joints and tie rods, they pretty much go when they go. There isn’t much you can do about it. If you’re having your mechanic do it, I’d suggest having the other side done too. Most shops charge by the hour (some by the job). If he charges by the hour, both tie rods can be done within an hour on a lift. If he charges by the job, just getting the bad tie rod replaced will be sufficient.[/quote]I’ll probably wait then, the other side is fine as I saw, it’s either replace one side now and don’t have to worry about ramming into a car when it fails, rather than waiting for another month to replace two at the same time and risk having the bad one fail. I’ll have the alignment done somewhere else because they don’t have a machine for it, if I have it done I want it done right.
Unless your coolant is really terrible, there is no point of flushing the system out. Just drain, fill, and bleed the air out. I would replace the thermostat because you already have the coolant drained.
Unless your coolant is really terrible, there is no point of flushing the system out. Just drain, fill, and bleed the air out. I would replace the thermostat because you already have the coolant drained.
[quote=”college man” post=106210]If your system is leaking coolant then it won’t hold pressure
it will overheat. The leaks must be fixed. Pressure test the
cooling system. This link will help you further.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats%5B/quote%5D
My old car leaked coolant through the head gasket and I never had overheating issues. Anyways op I would make sure they’re in fact bleeding the air out, it can be a pain in the butt on some cars. Is your oil milk shake colored? Is there white steam coming out of tail pipe after the car has been running for a while? Better yet smell the steam!