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Could be anything, abs module, a computer, and sensors. If it isn’t bearings, I wouldn’t worry about it personally. I drove a Concorde that had an abs light on never had any issues braking. The only time ABS is nice is in snow.
[quote=”thisisbuod” post=133877]If it’s that dark I would leave it alone. I don’t know why people never change tranny fluid.[/quote]87
Because a lot of owners manual say who dont have to. Same reason why people don’t change their coolant.
[quote=”shadetree 59″ post=117814]I have a 1970 Ford F-250 with a 390 engine and four speed transmission. It is not licensed and I use it on the ranch. It has always started and ran good. Lately it has been cranking very slow when warm to the point that it sometimes seems like it won’t turn at all. When it is cold it starts as normal. I have replaced the starter as I thought that because it is so close to the exhaust pipe that it was cooked. I replaced the fuel pump because it had a leak but didn’t think it had anything to do with this issue. Help the old guy out as I can’t take it to town to get help.
Thanks
John[/quote]Vapor lock? The starter is probably just getting heat soaked from the continuous cranking. Aside from that it’s either not getting spark or not getting fuel.
[quote=”shadetree 59″ post=117814]I have a 1970 Ford F-250 with a 390 engine and four speed transmission. It is not licensed and I use it on the ranch. It has always started and ran good. Lately it has been cranking very slow when warm to the point that it sometimes seems like it won’t turn at all. When it is cold it starts as normal. I have replaced the starter as I thought that because it is so close to the exhaust pipe that it was cooked. I replaced the fuel pump because it had a leak but didn’t think it had anything to do with this issue. Help the old guy out as I can’t take it to town to get help.
Thanks
John[/quote]Vapor lock? The starter is probably just getting heat soaked from the continuous cranking. Aside from that it’s either not getting spark or not getting fuel.
I didn’t bottom the screw out, I tightened so that there is about 1 inch of play when the wheel is straight and made sure it returns to center (which it does). I know this isn’t a permanent solution but I don’t want to throw $250 plus labor until I absolutely I have to. It’s a 92 crown vic with close to 200,000 miles on it if not more (broken odometer), I don’t want to throw a crap load of money into it before I have it paid off.
I didn’t bottom the screw out, I tightened so that there is about 1 inch of play when the wheel is straight and made sure it returns to center (which it does). I know this isn’t a permanent solution but I don’t want to throw $250 plus labor until I absolutely I have to. It’s a 92 crown vic with close to 200,000 miles on it if not more (broken odometer), I don’t want to throw a crap load of money into it before I have it paid off.
Sorry guys I didn’t reply sooner I’ve been working double time the last couple of weeks. It’s the old recirculating ball set-up, I checked all front-end components and it was defiantly the steering box. I adjusted the top screw (that was very fun!) and got it nice and tight now 🙂 Only one problem, the box still has a binding issue, I backed the adjustment off about two turns and it was still binding :ohmy: I know the box is on it’s way out but I’ll worry about that once the car is paid off.
Sorry guys I didn’t reply sooner I’ve been working double time the last couple of weeks. It’s the old recirculating ball set-up, I checked all front-end components and it was defiantly the steering box. I adjusted the top screw (that was very fun!) and got it nice and tight now 🙂 Only one problem, the box still has a binding issue, I backed the adjustment off about two turns and it was still binding :ohmy: I know the box is on it’s way out but I’ll worry about that once the car is paid off.
The car was owned by a friend of a friend, she treats her cars very well and does all the maintenance that the manual recommends. I’ll have to see if I can find what engine was put in. The hesitating is (mostly) gone now but every now and then a CEL light will come on at idle. I can’t pull the codes because of the dumb design Ford used on the connector. No oil leaks or blue smoke has been spotted, nothing leaks really.
The car was owned by a friend of a friend, she treats her cars very well and does all the maintenance that the manual recommends. I’ll have to see if I can find what engine was put in. The hesitating is (mostly) gone now but every now and then a CEL light will come on at idle. I can’t pull the codes because of the dumb design Ford used on the connector. No oil leaks or blue smoke has been spotted, nothing leaks really.
[quote=”DragonSung” post=107823]So I got my mom an 94 Nissan sentra for $300. Needed full inside detail and shampoo, tune up, a few fuses (battery got jumped wrong), CV joints, tires, and a few steering + suspension parts. tax, tile, and parts about will come to about $900. only have 500 in it now and it runs great.
after I put on front ball joints, and the (inner/outer) tie rod ends, it will need an alignment. My question is will using the old bad tires mess the alignment up?
side note any one know if there is any adjustment for rear on this car?
The options right now are
2 new tires and alignment. wait for other 2 tires.
4 new tires and wait for alignment.40k tire installed is $50
this car has to make a one way trip 60 miles, then will only see maybe 50 miles a month. for about 2 months before it get what ever else it needs.
input anyone?
thank you so much[/quote]
Get the alignment, bad tires won’t affect tires whatsoever. FYI steering wheel position does NOT determine alignment, my wheel is crooked but it can’t be adjusted because one of my inner rods is going out.
[quote=”DragonSung” post=107823]So I got my mom an 94 Nissan sentra for $300. Needed full inside detail and shampoo, tune up, a few fuses (battery got jumped wrong), CV joints, tires, and a few steering + suspension parts. tax, tile, and parts about will come to about $900. only have 500 in it now and it runs great.
after I put on front ball joints, and the (inner/outer) tie rod ends, it will need an alignment. My question is will using the old bad tires mess the alignment up?
side note any one know if there is any adjustment for rear on this car?
The options right now are
2 new tires and alignment. wait for other 2 tires.
4 new tires and wait for alignment.40k tire installed is $50
this car has to make a one way trip 60 miles, then will only see maybe 50 miles a month. for about 2 months before it get what ever else it needs.
input anyone?
thank you so much[/quote]
Get the alignment, bad tires won’t affect tires whatsoever. FYI steering wheel position does NOT determine alignment, my wheel is crooked but it can’t be adjusted because one of my inner rods is going out.
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107646][quote=”TheOtherKevinBeam” post=107532][quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107463]if the owners manual claims you never have too change fluid its probably one of those sealed assembly transmissions that they say only requires a fluid change under normal driving conditions. what year is your vehicle?[/quote]
1998 Chrysler Concorde, it says the transmission should be changed every 60,000 miles under severe conditions.[/quote]
then i would change the fluid, but BarneyB makes a very good point, 170,000 miles is a trans thats reached a age, and at any time you could start having issues.[/quote]
Well I talked to a mechanic friend, who owns a shop, and he claimed that it should be O.K. to change. I’ll plan on changing a couple of weeks from now. The reason I think it will be o.k. is because the fluid still has a pink tint to it (ATF just adds dye that wears off) and it smells like new fluid. The fluid seems slippery if I feel it my hand and compared to the new fresh fluid, can you even check that?
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107646][quote=”TheOtherKevinBeam” post=107532][quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=107463]if the owners manual claims you never have too change fluid its probably one of those sealed assembly transmissions that they say only requires a fluid change under normal driving conditions. what year is your vehicle?[/quote]
1998 Chrysler Concorde, it says the transmission should be changed every 60,000 miles under severe conditions.[/quote]
then i would change the fluid, but BarneyB makes a very good point, 170,000 miles is a trans thats reached a age, and at any time you could start having issues.[/quote]
Well I talked to a mechanic friend, who owns a shop, and he claimed that it should be O.K. to change. I’ll plan on changing a couple of weeks from now. The reason I think it will be o.k. is because the fluid still has a pink tint to it (ATF just adds dye that wears off) and it smells like new fluid. The fluid seems slippery if I feel it my hand and compared to the new fresh fluid, can you even check that?
