Forum Replies Created
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[quote=”wysetech” post=64897]Nope..I have never done that and never had a problem.[/quote]
Same here. Ford rear calipers usually require a “winder” to retrack the piston.
[quote=”wysetech” post=64897]Nope..I have never done that and never had a problem.[/quote]
Same here. Ford rear calipers usually require a “winder” to retrack the piston.
For many years, Ford used an inline filter. I was very surprised that they “thrifted” it out and now are relying on the in-tank filter “sock”.
For many years, Ford used an inline filter. I was very surprised that they “thrifted” it out and now are relying on the in-tank filter “sock”.
I never heard of a “spider injector” so I did some research. The original looks like this
The current Delphi replacement part looks lie this
I never heard of a “spider injector” so I did some research. The original looks like this
The current Delphi replacement part looks lie this
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=65028] If there was a heater failure there would have been a code for it. Besides, the O2 is not active at cold start up anyway. As for the coolant, I advised the customer that they would need to flush out the old coolant …[/quote]
Did the customer at least agree to the cooling system flush ? Seems odd that that maintenance item was skipped, especially when the rest of the engine compartment seemed reasonably clean !
Side question. New or repeat customer ? Do you think they will be back ?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=65028] If there was a heater failure there would have been a code for it. Besides, the O2 is not active at cold start up anyway. As for the coolant, I advised the customer that they would need to flush out the old coolant …[/quote]
Did the customer at least agree to the cooling system flush ? Seems odd that that maintenance item was skipped, especially when the rest of the engine compartment seemed reasonably clean !
Side question. New or repeat customer ? Do you think they will be back ?
Run a can of SeaFoam (available at Walmart) through an open vacuum line to the intake manifold while the engine is running. Either a PCV line or the brake booster line. On older vehicles these will be brittle and are likely to break, so be careful or have replacements ready.
A small funnel helps and you must hold the throttle open and maintain a high idle (2000+ rpm). I don’t car what the instructions say, use the whole can, but when you are down to the last 25% start pouring faster until the engine stalls. Let sit for about 30 minutes and re-install the hose(s). Then start the engine and hold the throttle at high idle until the smoke clears.
This process does cause quite a bit of smoke.
Buy an extra can of SeaFoam and dump the whole thing in your gas tank and fill with regular gas.
Let us know how this works.
I’m betting valve seals not valve guides. Easier and cheaper to replace. Remove vale covers. Remove spark plus. Insert a piece of cotton rope (long enough so that you can retrieve it) into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine over by hand until that piston comes up to top dead center and jams the rope against the valves. Remove the intake and exhaust rocker arms for that cylinder. Use a special tool, carefully remove the valve spring retainer and keepers. After removing the valve spring, the seal will come right off.
You will have to hand crank the engine backwards a bit to get the rope out.
Run a can of SeaFoam (available at Walmart) through an open vacuum line to the intake manifold while the engine is running. Either a PCV line or the brake booster line. On older vehicles these will be brittle and are likely to break, so be careful or have replacements ready.
A small funnel helps and you must hold the throttle open and maintain a high idle (2000+ rpm). I don’t car what the instructions say, use the whole can, but when you are down to the last 25% start pouring faster until the engine stalls. Let sit for about 30 minutes and re-install the hose(s). Then start the engine and hold the throttle at high idle until the smoke clears.
This process does cause quite a bit of smoke.
Buy an extra can of SeaFoam and dump the whole thing in your gas tank and fill with regular gas.
Let us know how this works.
I’m betting valve seals not valve guides. Easier and cheaper to replace. Remove vale covers. Remove spark plus. Insert a piece of cotton rope (long enough so that you can retrieve it) into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine over by hand until that piston comes up to top dead center and jams the rope against the valves. Remove the intake and exhaust rocker arms for that cylinder. Use a special tool, carefully remove the valve spring retainer and keepers. After removing the valve spring, the seal will come right off.
You will have to hand crank the engine backwards a bit to get the rope out.
2 questions
- Would it been faster to pull the engine ?
- Why no gasket cement on the replacement gasket ?
When that alternator goes, I hope it is a lot easier !
2 questions
- Would it been faster to pull the engine ?
- Why no gasket cement on the replacement gasket ?
When that alternator goes, I hope it is a lot easier !
[quote=”wysetech” post=63552]You would need to remove at least one of the bellows at the end of the rack where the inner tierod goes in to be 100% sure.[/quote]
This implies that most leaks occur at the seals at each end of the rack.It is only wet at the drivers side of the rack.
[quote=”wysetech” post=63552]You would need to remove at least one of the bellows at the end of the rack where the inner tierod goes in to be 100% sure.[/quote]
This implies that most leaks occur at the seals at each end of the rack.It is only wet at the drivers side of the rack.