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For 14 gauge and larger wire, use non-insulated butt splices (I prefer TE Solistrand) and marine heat shrink.
For 16-20, just strip 1″ of insulation from each wire and twist together at least 2 full turns. Marine heat shrink at least 3″ long.
For 22 gauge and smaller you might make a case for soldering, but you don’t want a gun ! Weller makes a nice temperature controlled 12V iron, but you can’t beat a good battery operated soldering iron for light duty and portability like the ISO-TIP 7700
If you really want something with some power get a Portosol 125W butane iron. Not for bench work, but great in the field. With the proper tip, will solder heavy wires faster than a 120V gun.
You don’t need to spend anywhere near that much if you are only going to be running an impact gun ! Max pressure and tank size are actually more important. Minimum 100PSI, 125PSI would be better. Minimum 2 gallon, 4 gallon would be better.
Those little “pancake” style compressors are fine, although most are very loud. Porter Cable, Ridgid, Bostich, DeWalt make “oil-less” compressors. These are all “light duty”. If you are looking for something heavier duty, get an oil lubed (“oiled”) compressor with a cast iron or steel sleeved pump. DeWalt, Rolair, Makita and others.
Look for one that says maximum current is 14A or less.
You don’t need to spend anywhere near that much if you are only going to be running an impact gun ! Max pressure and tank size are actually more important. Minimum 100PSI, 125PSI would be better. Minimum 2 gallon, 4 gallon would be better.
Those little “pancake” style compressors are fine, although most are very loud. Porter Cable, Ridgid, Bostich, DeWalt make “oil-less” compressors. These are all “light duty”. If you are looking for something heavier duty, get an oil lubed (“oiled”) compressor with a cast iron or steel sleeved pump. DeWalt, Rolair, Makita and others.
Look for one that says maximum current is 14A or less.
I don’t recall if that engine has an idle air bypass (IAC) or not.
If it does, remove it and clean it. Do NOT try to clean the throttle body on the downstream side of the throttle plate.
Cleaning the MAF would not hurt.
I don’t recall if that engine has an idle air bypass (IAC) or not.
If it does, remove it and clean it. Do NOT try to clean the throttle body on the downstream side of the throttle plate.
Cleaning the MAF would not hurt.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=65028]… Besides, the O2 is not active at cold start up anyway… [/quote]
[quote=”Haloruler64″ post=65168]…O2 sensors don’t operate at full range when idling. To get an O2 sensor to switch properly, you’d need to rev the engine up to 2k RPM.[/quote]
You guys are very “old school” with that kind of thinking !
An O2 sensor with a heater giving valid data very quickly (< 1-2 minutes) after startup, even at idle. This is the whole point of having a heater ! Even ScannerDanner commented in on of his videos how quickly this happened. The software will detect if the sensor is not properly responding and try to force it lean and then rich a couple of time before turning on the Check Engine light. If the O2 is not heated (older vehicles), then yes, a minute or so of high idle is required to get it to function. I don't understand the term "full range". EGO (O2) sensors "switches", changes from high to low or low to high voltage, when the exhaust gases pass stoichiometry. Some newer vehicles are now using heated "wide range"/analog/Universal EGO sensors that give a linear response (voltage proportional) over a range of air fuel ratios.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=65028]… Besides, the O2 is not active at cold start up anyway… [/quote]
[quote=”Haloruler64″ post=65168]…O2 sensors don’t operate at full range when idling. To get an O2 sensor to switch properly, you’d need to rev the engine up to 2k RPM.[/quote]
You guys are very “old school” with that kind of thinking !
An O2 sensor with a heater giving valid data very quickly (< 1-2 minutes) after startup, even at idle. This is the whole point of having a heater ! Even ScannerDanner commented in on of his videos how quickly this happened. The software will detect if the sensor is not properly responding and try to force it lean and then rich a couple of time before turning on the Check Engine light. If the O2 is not heated (older vehicles), then yes, a minute or so of high idle is required to get it to function. I don't understand the term "full range". EGO (O2) sensors "switches", changes from high to low or low to high voltage, when the exhaust gases pass stoichiometry. Some newer vehicles are now using heated "wide range"/analog/Universal EGO sensors that give a linear response (voltage proportional) over a range of air fuel ratios.
[quote=”wysetech” post=65243]I found that car manufactures will only be too happy to sell you another car when your old one is worn out. If they said to never change your engine oil, would you not change it?[/quote]
Big difference !Engine oil has additives that wear out. It is also subject to more extremes. And as as good as piston rings are, there is a certain amount of blow by from combustion that gets into the oil.
Not changing, does not mean not checking (although some idiot at Ford decided to eliminate the transmission fluid dipstick for a couple of years). Maintaining the proper level (too much in some ways is worse than not enough) is important.
Also, at the first sign of discoloration, the fluid should be changed.
[quote=”wysetech” post=65243]I found that car manufactures will only be too happy to sell you another car when your old one is worn out. If they said to never change your engine oil, would you not change it?[/quote]
Big difference !Engine oil has additives that wear out. It is also subject to more extremes. And as as good as piston rings are, there is a certain amount of blow by from combustion that gets into the oil.
Not changing, does not mean not checking (although some idiot at Ford decided to eliminate the transmission fluid dipstick for a couple of years). Maintaining the proper level (too much in some ways is worse than not enough) is important.
Also, at the first sign of discoloration, the fluid should be changed.
Powertrain electronics diagnostics as to be the most challenging task in the auto repair business today. Check out ScannerDanner channel on YouTube. He throws around a lot of electronic theory that I’m certain many auto techs do not understand. But it his understanding of that theory that allows him to diagnosis vehicles so well.
I’m sorry, it takes a lot more brain power to understand high side vs low side drivers, pull up vs pull down circuits, hall effect vs variable reluctance sensors, etc., than to swap brake pads, install ball joints and tie rod ends. Both type of technicians are required, but many customers do not understand the difference.
Powertrain electronics diagnostics as to be the most challenging task in the auto repair business today. Check out ScannerDanner channel on YouTube. He throws around a lot of electronic theory that I’m certain many auto techs do not understand. But it his understanding of that theory that allows him to diagnosis vehicles so well.
I’m sorry, it takes a lot more brain power to understand high side vs low side drivers, pull up vs pull down circuits, hall effect vs variable reluctance sensors, etc., than to swap brake pads, install ball joints and tie rod ends. Both type of technicians are required, but many customers do not understand the difference.
[quote=”wysetech” post=65139]WoW It’s been a while since i changed a “spider” It sure has evolved since the first one i saw.[/quote]
When the replacement part is so different it tells me that the engineers have said “Oh, well. That design did not work. Let’s go back to something more conventional !”[quote=”wysetech” post=65139]WoW It’s been a while since i changed a “spider” It sure has evolved since the first one i saw.[/quote]
When the replacement part is so different it tells me that the engineers have said “Oh, well. That design did not work. Let’s go back to something more conventional !”