Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”Mattv” post=65578] I’m leaning towards a clogging up heater core causing too much resistance in the heater core loop thus causing too much pressure on the inlet side.[/quote]
Good theory and this is not uncommon on other Ford products. You could try to verify this by rigging some extra hoses to a garden hose and just running water through the heater core to see if you are getting full volume flow.Flushing does not always clear these clogs, but Eric has a video on this subject. I believe the “mystery cleaner” is C-L-R and back flushing is the best solution. Although at your vehicles age and mileage is just may be time for a new core.
As for the fittings, heat is more like the cause of them getting brittle. The old brass style always had a ridge that the clamp had to slide over.
[quote=”Mattv” post=65578] I’m leaning towards a clogging up heater core causing too much resistance in the heater core loop thus causing too much pressure on the inlet side.[/quote]
Good theory and this is not uncommon on other Ford products. You could try to verify this by rigging some extra hoses to a garden hose and just running water through the heater core to see if you are getting full volume flow.Flushing does not always clear these clogs, but Eric has a video on this subject. I believe the “mystery cleaner” is C-L-R and back flushing is the best solution. Although at your vehicles age and mileage is just may be time for a new core.
As for the fittings, heat is more like the cause of them getting brittle. The old brass style always had a ridge that the clamp had to slide over.
You do not have all of the required tools to do A/C maintenance.
- Remove any remaining refrigerant
- Pull a vacuum and confirm that it will hold for 30 minutes.
- Repair leaks. Pull vacuum again.
- Add refrigerant with leak detector.
Next year, when you have no refrigerant, get out a black light and look for signs of the leak.
You do not have all of the required tools to do A/C maintenance.
- Remove any remaining refrigerant
- Pull a vacuum and confirm that it will hold for 30 minutes.
- Repair leaks. Pull vacuum again.
- Add refrigerant with leak detector.
Next year, when you have no refrigerant, get out a black light and look for signs of the leak.
HF is definitely a hit or miss. I bought some squeeze clamps there (on sale $1.99; I should have known better :sick: ). They broke the first time I used them. Last time there I noticed they had some “better” quality squeeze clamps.
HF is definitely a hit or miss. I bought some squeeze clamps there (on sale $1.99; I should have known better :sick: ). They broke the first time I used them. Last time there I noticed they had some “better” quality squeeze clamps.
[quote=”mjj0181″ post=65679]:unsure: I have a 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8… The check engine was on and I took it to Autozone to see what it is and the sales person said that it was the O2 sensor(s). He said there are 3 sensors on the truck, so I bought all 3 and I replaced it (three). The check engine went away but the idling keeps going up and down, the RPM is not steady and the engines dies.[/quote]
First, find a trustworthy mechanic, someone who has been recommended by a friend.
Second, Just guessing, but I will bet there was nothing wrong with your O2 sensors. Based on the erratic idle, I would guess you have a vacuum leak around the INTAKE manifold.
[quote=”mjj0181″ post=65679]:unsure: I have a 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8… The check engine was on and I took it to Autozone to see what it is and the sales person said that it was the O2 sensor(s). He said there are 3 sensors on the truck, so I bought all 3 and I replaced it (three). The check engine went away but the idling keeps going up and down, the RPM is not steady and the engines dies.[/quote]
First, find a trustworthy mechanic, someone who has been recommended by a friend.
Second, Just guessing, but I will bet there was nothing wrong with your O2 sensors. Based on the erratic idle, I would guess you have a vacuum leak around the INTAKE manifold.
First, I dislike those insulated connectors. For 16-20 gauge wire, I just strip about 1″ off each wire, twist them together, at least 2 full turns and cover with at least 3″ of marine heat shrink. I much prefer non-insulated connector (I prefer TE Solistrand covered with marine heat shrink for rings, spades and 14 gauge and larger butt splices.
Ideal Multi-Crimp work well for both insulated and non-insulated connectors. The wire strippers are not so good.
First, I dislike those insulated connectors. For 16-20 gauge wire, I just strip about 1″ off each wire, twist them together, at least 2 full turns and cover with at least 3″ of marine heat shrink. I much prefer non-insulated connector (I prefer TE Solistrand covered with marine heat shrink for rings, spades and 14 gauge and larger butt splices.
Ideal Multi-Crimp work well for both insulated and non-insulated connectors. The wire strippers are not so good.
For 14 gauge and larger wire, use non-insulated butt splices (I prefer TE Solistrand) and marine heat shrink.
For 16-20, just strip 1″ of insulation from each wire and twist together at least 2 full turns. Marine heat shrink at least 3″ long.
For 22 gauge and smaller you might make a case for soldering, but you don’t want a gun ! Weller makes a nice temperature controlled 12V iron, but you can’t beat a good battery operated soldering iron for light duty and portability like the ISO-TIP 7700
If you really want something with some power get a Portosol 125W butane iron. Not for bench work, but great in the field. With the proper tip, will solder heavy wires faster than a 120V gun.