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[quote=”sjrobinson” post=66173]After a drive the car is still doing it. But its intermittent. I check and the majority of the time the car is in open loop. But the o2 sensor readings seem incorrect, like theyre both defective. Its not that the ecu is ignoring them, its like the voltages are inconsistent and not accurate with the exhaust.
Id change the upstream but it wouldnt explain why the downstream acts funny too.[/quote]
10 to 1 odds you do NOT have an O2 sensor problem !
The downstream sensor should always follow the upstream sensor. Its whole purpose in life is to validate the upstream sensor and catalyst are working. If the 2 sensor are not in sync, that is a problem.
The ECU software will ignore the O2 sensor and go open loop if it decides that the readings are invalid. It will however, sort of “kick start” the O2 sensor by driving the air fuel ratio rich and then lean to see if it has an effect. If yes, you atr in closed loop. If no it goes back to open loop for some period of time before doing this whole thing over again.
[quote=”Mattv” post=66193]Any problem with just running the heatercore loop full open, bypassing the (broken) control valve? Other than longer time warming up in the winter but that’s also controllable.. [/quote]
Awful hot in summer !I’d just do this (pic)for the valve like the first one.(metal) Just don’t feel like spending money on a new valve, she’s gettin up there in age and condition, know what I mean.
12 years old ? just broken in ! I just spent $350 to get the A/C working in my 15 year old Club Wagon !
The valve is cheap on eBay, under $20.
[quote=”Mattv” post=66193]Any problem with just running the heatercore loop full open, bypassing the (broken) control valve? Other than longer time warming up in the winter but that’s also controllable.. [/quote]
Awful hot in summer !I’d just do this (pic)for the valve like the first one.(metal) Just don’t feel like spending money on a new valve, she’s gettin up there in age and condition, know what I mean.
12 years old ? just broken in ! I just spent $350 to get the A/C working in my 15 year old Club Wagon !
The valve is cheap on eBay, under $20.
[quote=”sjrobinson” post=66145]Ill double check with my vacuum gauge but 23 in/hg is normal for me and I would be running lean rather than rich with a leak right?[/quote]
Vacuum gauge is not accurate enough.
I missed the fact the the fuel trim was negative. Not common but sometimes injectors get partially clogged and will “dribble” even when closed,
Check Eric’s videos on cleaning injectors.
[quote=”sjrobinson” post=66145]Ill double check with my vacuum gauge but 23 in/hg is normal for me and I would be running lean rather than rich with a leak right?[/quote]
Vacuum gauge is not accurate enough.
I missed the fact the the fuel trim was negative. Not common but sometimes injectors get partially clogged and will “dribble” even when closed,
Check Eric’s videos on cleaning injectors.
My gut says it is a vacuum leak. Check Eric videos for finding vacuum leaks.
O2 sensor typically do not get “lazy” (stop working at idle), especially if they are heated O2 sensors. It can happen, it is just not common.
My gut says it is a vacuum leak. Check Eric videos for finding vacuum leaks.
O2 sensor typically do not get “lazy” (stop working at idle), especially if they are heated O2 sensors. It can happen, it is just not common.
[quote=”Orangejuice2112″ post=66123]
I patched it really good with some tough wire that I had that was the exact same gauge. Only 1 1/2″ or so. Put it all back together and it runs fantastic!![/quote]Buy some marine heat shrink tubing. It has am inner liner that melts into the bare wire making a waterproof seal. Butt connectors and solder are NOT required !
[quote=”Orangejuice2112″ post=66123]
I patched it really good with some tough wire that I had that was the exact same gauge. Only 1 1/2″ or so. Put it all back together and it runs fantastic!![/quote]Buy some marine heat shrink tubing. It has am inner liner that melts into the bare wire making a waterproof seal. Butt connectors and solder are NOT required !
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=65968]You need to use a water remover if you are going to be running ethanol, but I really suggest that you just do not buy gasoline with ethanol in it. the price difference will be made up by better mileage and more power.[/quote]
I most parts of the US, this is nearly impossible.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=65968]You need to use a water remover if you are going to be running ethanol, but I really suggest that you just do not buy gasoline with ethanol in it. the price difference will be made up by better mileage and more power.[/quote]
I most parts of the US, this is nearly impossible.
As long as you are using your vehicle regularly and refilling the tank you do not need any additives.
As long as you are using your vehicle regularly and refilling the tank you do not need any additives.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=65948]… I also agree that changing fluids, all fluids, on a regular basis is a good practice.[/quote]
The problem is what is a “regular basis” ?Many people still change their oil every 3,000 miles and I thank them (I own stock in oil companies and I love big dividends) while Ford (and I will guess other car companies) now recommend 7,500 miles between oil changes under normal driving conditions.
I still say, follow the manufactures recommendation. If there is no specific interval listed for transmission fluid change, I would not argue you with 100,000 miles. I have a 15 year old truck with 120,000 mile and the factory installed ATF is still clean.
But as Eric has said in his videos USE THE MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC TRANSMISSION FLUID !
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=65948]… I also agree that changing fluids, all fluids, on a regular basis is a good practice.[/quote]
The problem is what is a “regular basis” ?Many people still change their oil every 3,000 miles and I thank them (I own stock in oil companies and I love big dividends) while Ford (and I will guess other car companies) now recommend 7,500 miles between oil changes under normal driving conditions.
I still say, follow the manufactures recommendation. If there is no specific interval listed for transmission fluid change, I would not argue you with 100,000 miles. I have a 15 year old truck with 120,000 mile and the factory installed ATF is still clean.
But as Eric has said in his videos USE THE MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC TRANSMISSION FLUID !