Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I forgot to mention, Fox Body vehicles can twist down their length. Some vehicles twist bad enough to break the dashboard and the bracing behind it. Research what you can do to prevent twist, like from a high HP engine !
A lot depends on how good of a “used”/junk yard shopper you are ! Of course my favorite saying relates to both cars and computers : “How fast you go only depends on how much money you have in your pocket !”
It you could find a 4.6L aluminum block Modular engine that would be great. You might even find an all aluminum DOHC 4 valve motor if you look hard enough ! Do some research first, even the SOHC motors are very W-I-D-E !! Headers and that power brake booster are going to be close.
Personally, I would go with a MegaSquirt system and a Ford EDIS.
AOD transmission should be cheap in junk yards, but I would have a good performance rebuilder “do his thing” ! Those are big transmissions so you may have to “massage” the hump in the floor.
Front to rear sub-frame connectors are a must as is an 8.8″ rear axle.
A lot depends on how good of a “used”/junk yard shopper you are ! Of course my favorite saying relates to both cars and computers : “How fast you go only depends on how much money you have in your pocket !”
It you could find a 4.6L aluminum block Modular engine that would be great. You might even find an all aluminum DOHC 4 valve motor if you look hard enough ! Do some research first, even the SOHC motors are very W-I-D-E !! Headers and that power brake booster are going to be close.
Personally, I would go with a MegaSquirt system and a Ford EDIS.
AOD transmission should be cheap in junk yards, but I would have a good performance rebuilder “do his thing” ! Those are big transmissions so you may have to “massage” the hump in the floor.
Front to rear sub-frame connectors are a must as is an 8.8″ rear axle.
Very few of the “non-professional” scanners handle ABS and transmission codes very well.
I concur with others, that the INNOVA 3160 is probably the “best bang for the buck” for DIY code readers. However, I also believe that Innova should offer a software update service, even it it would mean returning the unit to the factory. I would pay $20-$50 for an update if it actually did add capability.
Very few of the “non-professional” scanners handle ABS and transmission codes very well.
I concur with others, that the INNOVA 3160 is probably the “best bang for the buck” for DIY code readers. However, I also believe that Innova should offer a software update service, even it it would mean returning the unit to the factory. I would pay $20-$50 for an update if it actually did add capability.
Anyone working on a car that is dripping/leaking gasoline should have a fire extinguisher within 5 feet if where there are working. Better yet, 2 of them. Better yet, be outside, away from any part of building made with combustible material.
Anyone working on a car that is dripping/leaking gasoline should have a fire extinguisher within 5 feet if where there are working. Better yet, 2 of them. Better yet, be outside, away from any part of building made with combustible material.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=71788]
Thank you for your condescending input. I’m sure your moms real proud of you. If you don’t know what condescending means, you can Google it. :)[/quote]
First, let me apologize for my “attitude” !I was fascinated at your approach as I have never seen a fuel pump/sender assembly removed with the tank still in the car. While you were unable to remove the entire assembly, you got the job done !
Second, another public session of “eating crow” !
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71782]If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.
The “gauge” itself is actually a piece of bimetal with a pointer on it. As current runs through the bimetal it heats up. The amount it heats up and how far the bimetal bends is based on the resistance in the fuel level sender. Simple. Cheap.[/quote]
Well that is no longer correct and has not been for many years ! The wiring is
Key On Power -> Electronic Slosh module (on the instrument panel) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.The gauge is a typical coil/magnet gauge.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=71788]
Thank you for your condescending input. I’m sure your moms real proud of you. If you don’t know what condescending means, you can Google it. :)[/quote]
First, let me apologize for my “attitude” !I was fascinated at your approach as I have never seen a fuel pump/sender assembly removed with the tank still in the car. While you were unable to remove the entire assembly, you got the job done !
Second, another public session of “eating crow” !
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71782]If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.
The “gauge” itself is actually a piece of bimetal with a pointer on it. As current runs through the bimetal it heats up. The amount it heats up and how far the bimetal bends is based on the resistance in the fuel level sender. Simple. Cheap.[/quote]
Well that is no longer correct and has not been for many years ! The wiring is
Key On Power -> Electronic Slosh module (on the instrument panel) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.The gauge is a typical coil/magnet gauge.
[quote=”freerunnerj” post=71818]A top commenter said that a ground issue was usually the cause of a stuck on full reading. I’m pretty sure that the PCM sends a voltage to the gauge, which varies depending on where the fuel level is at. So a “bad ground” is not a good answer.
I think the easiest route would be to hook up a scan tool and run a fuel gauge test to test the gauges operation. If the gauge operates correctly, the problem is pre PCM, probably the fuel level sensor. If it does not operate under command from the test, you know the problem is PCM or post PCM (probably gauge or wiring.) [/quote]
It appears that you did not read my previous post.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71782]If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.[/quote]
There is NO connection between the PCM and the fuel level sensor and the fuel gauge.
[quote=”freerunnerj” post=71818]A top commenter said that a ground issue was usually the cause of a stuck on full reading. I’m pretty sure that the PCM sends a voltage to the gauge, which varies depending on where the fuel level is at. So a “bad ground” is not a good answer.
I think the easiest route would be to hook up a scan tool and run a fuel gauge test to test the gauges operation. If the gauge operates correctly, the problem is pre PCM, probably the fuel level sensor. If it does not operate under command from the test, you know the problem is PCM or post PCM (probably gauge or wiring.) [/quote]
It appears that you did not read my previous post.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71782]If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.[/quote]
There is NO connection between the PCM and the fuel level sensor and the fuel gauge.
If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.
The “gauge” itself is actually a piece of bimetal with a pointer on it. As current runs through the bimetal it heats up. The amount it heats up and how far the bimetal bends is based on the resistance in the fuel level sender. Simple. Cheap.
If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.
The “gauge” itself is actually a piece of bimetal with a pointer on it. As current runs through the bimetal it heats up. The amount it heats up and how far the bimetal bends is based on the resistance in the fuel level sender. Simple. Cheap.
Gasoline in the arm pits, Owie !
Sound like you have some cracked/broken skin there. After showering, apply a bit of Neospor1n. If that doesn’t clean it up in a day or 2, it is likely fungal. Use athletes foot cream.