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A lot of chatter on this topic over at Garage Journal .com
The “pros” seem to like SnapOn and Milwaukee the best. Some like DeWalt and Ingersol Rand. Very little discussion on Ryobi.
If you are only looking at light automotive usage, you can get one with 1/4″ hex drive for screws and such and 1/4″ and 3/8″ adapter for sockets.
What ever you decide, it will affect any future purchase of battery tools because of the high cost of batteries. Chose wisely, grasshopper !
A lot of chatter on this topic over at Garage Journal .com
The “pros” seem to like SnapOn and Milwaukee the best. Some like DeWalt and Ingersol Rand. Very little discussion on Ryobi.
If you are only looking at light automotive usage, you can get one with 1/4″ hex drive for screws and such and 1/4″ and 3/8″ adapter for sockets.
What ever you decide, it will affect any future purchase of battery tools because of the high cost of batteries. Chose wisely, grasshopper !
It is not the sensor. It is the heater circuit. The PCM actuallu does sense current going to the heater. In this case, there is none.
You will need a wiring diagram to find the fuse and or relay that is not working.
It is not the sensor. It is the heater circuit. The PCM actuallu does sense current going to the heater. In this case, there is none.
You will need a wiring diagram to find the fuse and or relay that is not working.
This is kind of like the recent Boeing 787 Dreamliner battery issue. We will never know the “root cause” (OOppss … who uses terms like “root cause” ?) of either of these problems.
While the conjecture that a bearing going bad causing excessive current is reasonable, I also do not find it reasonable that the switch should partially fail before the fuse. I also know from a “prior life” that oilite bearings usually make a lot of noise as they die. My gut says it was a bad switch or perhaps a switch that failed even when it was operating within the system specifications.
The real question is, so one everyone (who gives a sh!t and you do) wants to get better at what they do for a living, what would you do differently next time ?
This is kind of like the recent Boeing 787 Dreamliner battery issue. We will never know the “root cause” (OOppss … who uses terms like “root cause” ?) of either of these problems.
While the conjecture that a bearing going bad causing excessive current is reasonable, I also do not find it reasonable that the switch should partially fail before the fuse. I also know from a “prior life” that oilite bearings usually make a lot of noise as they die. My gut says it was a bad switch or perhaps a switch that failed even when it was operating within the system specifications.
The real question is, so one everyone (who gives a sh!t and you do) wants to get better at what they do for a living, what would you do differently next time ?
[quote=”forklifttech” post=56646]are you sure your proportioning valve is working correctly?
that question is to theoldwizard1[/quote]
No way to know for sure.[quote=”forklifttech” post=56646]are you sure your proportioning valve is working correctly?
that question is to theoldwizard1[/quote]
No way to know for sure.[quote=”johnzcarz” post=56464]I agree that you generally can’t go wrong with OE parts, but if you can figure out whom the supplier is, and just shop for that brand vs. Motorcraft/Mopar, etc. you get the same part a lot cheaper.[/quote]
The trick is find the original supplier, or at least a good quality alternative.I used to buy cheap brake pads at O’Reilly’s or AutoZone. Now I stick with “name brands” like Wagner or Raybestos. Less brake dust, longer life.
[quote=”johnzcarz” post=56464]I agree that you generally can’t go wrong with OE parts, but if you can figure out whom the supplier is, and just shop for that brand vs. Motorcraft/Mopar, etc. you get the same part a lot cheaper.[/quote]
The trick is find the original supplier, or at least a good quality alternative.I used to buy cheap brake pads at O’Reilly’s or AutoZone. Now I stick with “name brands” like Wagner or Raybestos. Less brake dust, longer life.
[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=56414]You need to service your rear calipers. they are not free floating on the slide pins. use anti-seize or silicone on all moving parts. [/quote]
Not my first brake job.The slide pins were cleaned and well lubed.
The retaining springs were replaced with new ones, also
[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=56414]You need to service your rear calipers. they are not free floating on the slide pins. use anti-seize or silicone on all moving parts. [/quote]
Not my first brake job.The slide pins were cleaned and well lubed.
The retaining springs were replaced with new ones, also
My 1998 E150 does not like front rotors ! With about 105K, I’m on my 4th set of front rotors. Admittedly, ALL of them were aftermarket. They seem to last 2-3 years before the pulsation are unbearable !
Last pair I installed were Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors. These are the “middle grade” for Raybestos and the pair are got were made in US and Canada. Their “top of the line” are drilled and slotted. Their low end have an “R” suffix.
My 1998 E150 does not like front rotors ! With about 105K, I’m on my 4th set of front rotors. Admittedly, ALL of them were aftermarket. They seem to last 2-3 years before the pulsation are unbearable !
Last pair I installed were Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors. These are the “middle grade” for Raybestos and the pair are got were made in US and Canada. Their “top of the line” are drilled and slotted. Their low end have an “R” suffix.