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- Glad you disconnected the battery !
- Get yourself some metric line (flare nut) wrenches ! B)
- I’m surprised you don’t have/use a small air ratchet or battery impact.
And how did you know those studs were mounted with left hand threads ! I never would have gotten that !!
On Ford products with IAC (a.k.a. bypass air) solenoid, a gummed up one can lead to a “no start” condition.
If customer complains of crank/no start, and especially if they smell raw fuel, have them wait 10-20 minutes and try again. If the engine does not immediately start, stop cranking, hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and start cranking. While cranking, slowly release the pedal. If it starts, it is likely a gummed up IAC.
Remove the IAC and clean with carb cleaner. Don’t waste your time cleaning the inside of the throttle body. Ford actually coated the inside of the TB with something that looks like sludge (but is harder) so that no air goes past the TB plates at Closed Throttle.
On Ford products with IAC (a.k.a. bypass air) solenoid, a gummed up one can lead to a “no start” condition.
If customer complains of crank/no start, and especially if they smell raw fuel, have them wait 10-20 minutes and try again. If the engine does not immediately start, stop cranking, hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and start cranking. While cranking, slowly release the pedal. If it starts, it is likely a gummed up IAC.
Remove the IAC and clean with carb cleaner. Don’t waste your time cleaning the inside of the throttle body. Ford actually coated the inside of the TB with something that looks like sludge (but is harder) so that no air goes past the TB plates at Closed Throttle.
When replace any COP, put some silicon dielectric grease inside the boot and on the terminals.
Always use the exact plugs recommended by the manufacturer. If you are swapping out a COP, I would swap the plug out also.
Remember, misfire can be caused by a vacuum leak near those cylinders.
When replace any COP, put some silicon dielectric grease inside the boot and on the terminals.
Always use the exact plugs recommended by the manufacturer. If you are swapping out a COP, I would swap the plug out also.
Remember, misfire can be caused by a vacuum leak near those cylinders.
[quote=”college man” post=60050]check your starter relay. under the hood[/quote]
The starter relay on Ford’s is sometimes call the solenoid, although on newer (well, less than 20 years old) Ford permanent magnet starters they solenoid is mounted directly on top of the starter motor.Yes, buy a meter. Even a cheap Harbor Freight one.
You’ll need a friend to help diagnose (or 10′ long arms). With you friend in the seat and you under the hood, put a finger on the starter relay (see picture; mounted close to the batery and connected directly to the battery positive terminal) when your friend cycle the key from ON to START and back. You should feel and hear it go “clunk”. If not, I think you need a new ignition switch.
Once you have confirmed this, use your meter to confirm you have 12V coming out of the relay when the key is in the START position.
If all of these a good, remove the connections at the relay and at the starter, clean with emery cloths and re-assemble.
[quote=”college man” post=60050]check your starter relay. under the hood[/quote]
The starter relay on Ford’s is sometimes call the solenoid, although on newer (well, less than 20 years old) Ford permanent magnet starters they solenoid is mounted directly on top of the starter motor.Yes, buy a meter. Even a cheap Harbor Freight one.
You’ll need a friend to help diagnose (or 10′ long arms). With you friend in the seat and you under the hood, put a finger on the starter relay (see picture; mounted close to the batery and connected directly to the battery positive terminal) when your friend cycle the key from ON to START and back. You should feel and hear it go “clunk”. If not, I think you need a new ignition switch.
Once you have confirmed this, use your meter to confirm you have 12V coming out of the relay when the key is in the START position.
If all of these a good, remove the connections at the relay and at the starter, clean with emery cloths and re-assemble.
This works on Ford vehicles. GM/Pontiac ?
When the key will not turn, release it, pull the steering wheel hard to the right and try again. If that does not get it, release the key, pull the steering wheel hard to the left and try again.
This works on Ford vehicles. GM/Pontiac ?
When the key will not turn, release it, pull the steering wheel hard to the right and try again. If that does not get it, release the key, pull the steering wheel hard to the left and try again.
[quote=”SameSam” post=60833]interesting, If thats true. If the PCM sense current, then the wrong sensor, or resistance could also give this. Don´t you agree with me? [/quote]
Probably not !O2 Sensors (EGO) are pretty common, even between car companies, with the only difference being the length of the pigtail and possibly the connector.
Some new cars are starting to use “universal” EGO (UEGO) sensors. This sensors do not “switch” at stoichiometry. They give a continuous voltage that varies with with how rich/lean the engine is running.
[quote=”SameSam” post=60833]interesting, If thats true. If the PCM sense current, then the wrong sensor, or resistance could also give this. Don´t you agree with me? [/quote]
Probably not !O2 Sensors (EGO) are pretty common, even between car companies, with the only difference being the length of the pigtail and possibly the connector.
Some new cars are starting to use “universal” EGO (UEGO) sensors. This sensors do not “switch” at stoichiometry. They give a continuous voltage that varies with with how rich/lean the engine is running.
[quote=”FourRings” post=60842]Newer cars use very soft pads with high metal content. European car makers have been using these compounds for almost 20 years. Domestics are just catching up.[/quote]
Then why have the fronts lasted over 60,000 and likely have another 10-15,000 left ?