Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Scotty does know his stuff, and some of his vid’s are helpful… But as was mentioned… He’s got a very different take on what an automotive video should be. Eric the Car guy, MOTORZ, briansmobile, Scotty all have different and unique ways of going about it. I’m biased… I saw Eric’s videos first and I like to research, read and get down and dirty by being thorough. Scottys the anathema to that.
We do have to keep in mind, that the guy is trying to help even if we don’t dig his methods or think he is a shill, we have to respect the attempt.
Although i BUSTED put laughing when he poured that can in… Yep cause that’ll solve the problem by throwing quickfix remedies at it.Though if we’re going to talk exploitive advertising lets talk MOTORZ. Love these vids and guys but my God… Selling E3 plugs much, and Sears tools? One guy asked where to get a cheap set of tools and he actually said “head to your local sears dealer”… Somehow I don’t think the person was talking about buying new Sears tools.
Holy Craps Dreamer… This channel is fantastic! I have exactly almost sorta zero electrical know-how and so this will be a great source of info and entertainment. Much appreciated, you sir are both a Gentleman and a Scholar.
Brake sliders do not commonly reach 400 F, Dot 3 brake fluid starts to boil at around 400 F. The rubber that covers the slide pins would start to melt at those temps especially for models of older cars that were not created using more novel heat resistant formula. Your rotors do indeed get very very hot, way hotter than that even as non-race driver, but the calipers do not directly touch the rotors, the pads do and they act as an insulator and help disperse the heat. In order to create that sort of you heat you need to maintain long periods of braking and to maintain that you need speed. As you brake your momentum is transferred into heat (First law of Thermodynamics) and much of that heat is dispersed at those speeds into the air NOT 100% into the calipers. As high airflow passes over your brakes and rotors it cools the system. Can your caliper reach in excess of those temps… yeah… on track day not during a typical drive, and certainly not enough to warrant going all out and buying new carbon fiber rotors or Ceramic Composites for your daily commute.
That post was fascinating but soundly very suspicious since as you mentioned spelunkerd, there is not an overflow of seized calipers, nor I have I seen corroborating evidence to back up that websites claim. I have personal experience backing the fact that even when using a product for the wrong application (say lithium grease) many times it still will do the trick. I am doubtful that is the “sole” product that should be used. I have 10+ cars in my local family, all of which do their own brake servicing and no failures to speak of using 3m, Loctite, or Permatex caliper lubricants over the past 20+ years. If my immediate death is imminent from not using ceramlub please advise.
Not trying to be mean or spiteful, but I am suspicious when a “brand” is lorded over all the rest as being what should “really be used” and I’d like to hear a rebuttal from someone who deals 3M or Permatex.
Surface preparation as Dreamer and 619DioFan mentioned is key. You can do several things once you have a good surface especially since the crack is hairline. 1) Go all out and TIG weld it. 2) Use a good grade of weather silicone as you mentioned, don’t go for the cheap stuff, pick up something that’s paintable, and expansion resilient like . 3) Grab some JB weld to go ahead and do a cold weld on it. I’ve used it on multiple applications and if the surface is flat and not apt to movement it’ll do a hella of a job. 4) Use a Clear Silicone RTV sealant like permatex makes, or something as simple as SeamerMate (what they use for gutters).
Hell I’ve seen people use different types of putty to varying degrees of success, and even things like Liquid Nails. There’s more brands and kinds than I care to name and some are application specific but most of all the aforementioned will get what you need done and do a decent job, though if you are going for the long haul (as you say you are)… Then use JB to do a cold weld… or TIG weld it.
Darn shame but it’s true… it’s like “green” or “light” “organic” or “fat-free”… just buzzwords to get you to buy the product. Dig a little deeper and you may unfortunately be surprised at what you find. 🙁
We Americans look at two sides of the car actually… front and back. lol. But in all seriousness I’ve got to call you on the “who drives more than 90 miles” …and the answer would be quite a few people… including me.
Especially with jobs and the economy tight, people are having to travel farther to work, my commute is about an hour both ways to work on a farm (60 miles) and I do alot of driving to haul crap and procure lumber, concrete, etc… Electrics aren’t quite to the point where they are really good in mountainous regions (where I reside), despite the argument that they have really good low end torque. So electrics are great for city goers but less useful on farms where good suspension and a engine that can pull serious weight are needed more than fuel efficiency. That being said there are some diesel’s and new Electrics that have come a long way in the field and will be offering serious competition to the normal gas powered cars/trucks/suvs. That being said I will eat my words when the Honda FCX Clarity and Chevy Volt go mainstream. Different ends of the spectrum but both are really cool.
@ Jhowe93 just youtubed it, looks cool.
I’m with Dreamer on this one, I see things like the Volt (gas/electric) and the Honda Clarity (hydrogen fuel cell) as really becoming mainstream for several reasons. 1) it doesn’t demand a gigantic infrastructure change, gas stations can be equipped with diesel and gas… might as well make room for hydrogen. 2) Oil companies can still regulate and sell you a product in a similar fashion to what they are already selling you. They haul it to stations using trucks, fill said stations, you drive up and fill up out of a pump (though a pressurized one).
Hydrogen is a readily renewable resource, and it is one of the most abundant elements in the universe.
That being said… it’s currently still very inefficient to create hydrogen from water, or to gather it by separating it (i.e. the power required to do such task is almost equal to the power you output). It is getting more and more efficient but still a limiting factor.
Beefy, sounds like a sweet class, curious though… did it make you want to go hybrid even more or were you turned off after taking the class?
Some more pics of the tear down.
Carburetor dissassembly.
Valves and rocker arms, valve gasket was lost in a Quantum time collapse I’m sure…
Pulling apart the ignition system, muffler and engine.
That’s the bleeding heart right there. ;D Got all excited to finally get her completely torn down. I’ll probably post a video on youtube of the re-assembly to either demonstrate success or lack of the aforementioned success.
Interesting video. Didn’t cross my mind for the regular mech, tech or backyard mechanic to use a desktop program to help them tune their car. Have you used the software 7thDayFord? Not really up my alley but I’d be curious to see what people’s experiences with it were, and whether it was actually helpful or a distraction to their project.
There’s a guy in Pulaski, VA that always drives around and he has a flatbed truck made out of Lumber. He did a good job jointing the pieces and staining them. As far as I know it’s legit in VA and nobody has stopped him.
He has the brake lights mounted on the bottom frame which is visible in the current set up, but they are still high enough off the ground to be legal. Check the ordinances for your state when doing your lights, I know some states are pretty strict on how low or high the lights can be off the ground and the bumper, shouldn’t be a problem and unlikely somebody is going to pull you over for it… but always worth avoid that 75 dollar ticket to the court house.
Are you handy with framing and trim? If so you can build some pretty decent looking housing for the lights using smaller lumber and staining it to match. As far as removable slats, I’d say reinforce them with some square steel tube (pick up some at your local Lowes. Attach to sidewall/slats and create a mating end in the truck bed and some other secondary guarantee that they wont rip out the back and lodge into someone’s windshield (e.g some chain, hangars).
The other option is to get a more spiffy looking truck bed, go to your local junk yard and look for the bed of the truck, or if you know someone that welds you might be able to bribe them with some good beer to help out. The one other aspect to consider is this… whenever you significantly modify your car from it’s original manufactor’s design you will have to register it with a rebuilt license (small nominal fee, mostly red tape), have it inspected, and a new VIN assigned. I’m not a lawyer or someone qualified enough to venture a guess on whether this would require a “rebuilt/kit/conversion” license but it might. I’d make my first stop talking with a body garage for some details. Food for thought.
Getting rhino-liner or Herculiner on your hootus… really. I have no words. Though I do know a kid at school that at jalapenos with his hand then promptly went to bathroom… needless to say he had to explain this to me and why his crotch in his pants was wet.
I’m with Twiggy02919… it’ll act as an insulator and raise the internal temps… which could be an interesting experiment to see what happens… except you probably want to drive this thing as well.
Think of thermal grease on a cpu… a little bit and it’ll help transfer the heat away from the processor to the heat sink (like some engine enamel will do to your engine)… but too much and it becomes an insulator.
Saw that in my Bio class… fantastic video, great production quality and plethora of good interviews. Love seeing the actors get attached to their electrics and not just the McLaren’s, Ferrari’s, Pagani’s, Bugatti’s, etc…
yep I echo 619DioFan’s sentiment… craigslist is your friend. Otherwise I’d try and make your own if you’re feeling handy. I built a few of my own and really the trick is knowing what you want out of a work bench (height, how wide of a work surface, place to hold your screwdrivers, or units to hold the power tools, bolts, etc…). Take a gander online at different set ups, and then go to a store like Lowes, harbor freight, HD or what have you and look at the design.
You can build one for relatively cheap if you already have some of the tools and material. I have an excess of screws, and lags so it was relatively cheap to frame out a bench with 2x4s and some spare 3/4″ plywood. Let us know what you end up doing!
Well strangely enough you would be in luck. This past year I’ve made it a goal to take a picture every single day (trying to justify buying the smartphone ;D )of something I’m doing and working on so I pretty much have gallery full of them. Here’s the start of it all… Notice the rust covering everything (just use your imagination for the underbelly of the beast). You can thank the Eastern shore and Southern Maryland’s brackish and salt water mixed with copious amounts of disinterest from the previous owner for that. See those dots on the heat shield… yeah they use to be bolts until they became fused and rusted.
It’s been said from cars to computer parts to tools to good set of Knives… you get what you pay for. And for the most part it holds true, Farberware has got nothing on Classic Wusthoff, nor does Husky have anything on Snap-On.
There is a point of diminishing returns however, where you’ve spent WAAAaaayyyy more than needed and are getting very little if anything more/over the cheaper alternatives. Will there be times when you go to Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply or that strange “store” down the street and buy a ratchet or drill that costs a nickel and lasts forever and puts up to abuse… yes. That being said the”percentage” of that happening is significantly lower with cheaper tools and significantly higher with better tools.
Kobalt, Rigid, Husky, Mastercraft, etc… These are usually Store Brands (Lowes is Kobalt, Ridgid is Home Depot) that are usually produced by a different brand or larger conglomerate company. As mentioned, the production has moved over seas, especially to China. I have a set of ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, and pliers from Kobalt, Stanley, Craftsman, Rigid, etc… as well as power/air tools. I’m staring at a ratchet with destroyed teeth that skips constantly, a dewalt drill that is cracked and falling apart, and several pairs of pliers with shattered tips. That’s cheap for ya. The steel isn’t the same, and even kobalt clamps will “bend” rather than clamp said objects.
Snap-On, Matco, etc… usually make fantastic products. As was mentioned it really comes down to each individual tool and how it was designed. I’ve seen shitty Makita saws, but Fantastic Hitachi Impact Drivers (their the leader of drills IMO but suck at most other stuff), bought great Socket sets from Stanley that lasted forever and heck… even Ridgid is known for Great pipe tools and Wet Vacs. As a climber… I buy the pretty and expensive stuff (Petzl, Arc-Teryx) but the cheap stuff as well… I just make an informed decision. If you’re like me and know that hot dipped handles last forever and won’t slide around on ya when working with fence or pulling the hose off in the car… you’re less likely to pick up that “super cheap” off brand with the crappy grips because you know they’ll be twisted off in a matter of full work days.
My advice… buy cheap… super cheap… and figure out what you hate about it… what you can live with… and then go buy something that fits your criteria. Hope it helps.