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+3 on the Above posts. I agree with all of the above but lets not forget the most pertinent part of the exhaust deterioration… mythical unicorns in the exhaust system. Happens to us all sooner or later, how else do we describe the rapid accelerate
Ditto, you really don’t see why you need both 12 and 6 point sockets, Deep and short, SAE and Metric… until you start working.
Suddenly you’re breaking out the extensions, torque bars, grabbing wobbles (swivels) and using the Deep Sockets for the Studs and Bolts and the Short on some crapp… uhh… beautiful 4 cylinder transverse engine that gives you exactly enough space to spit between the engine block and the wheel well.
Really you’ll figure out what you need as you start working. I don’t use SAE that much so I have exactly one set of them and a bunch of Metric as previously mentioned by everyone else. Special profiles, sizes, points, shapes… all to fit the situations I’ve encountered and said to myself “you know what would be awesome right here… a stubby combination wrench.”
Food for the thought.
Sounds like you need to have the calibration checked to me, most tools-on-wheels can do some basic testing and even alot of stores offer that sort of service ( I believe SEARS) even if its not their torque wrench. To be honest I had a Performance Part torque wrench and the thing was crap. Only thing it was good for was beating the piss out of something. It wasn’t a clicker and it just sucked heavy, coming out all the time, not reading, trouble bringing down to zero…
As mentioned most shops who preform calibrations won’t even look at a wrench like that.
Save yourself some pain and get a nice torque wrench (Despite 619DioFan, I had a lot of luck with my craftsman and have not had to have it recalibrated yet). But to be honest… my snap on was 150ish dollars. the Craftsman was 80ish-90 dollars, the Mac was about 150ish.
They’re all pretty close if you busy used or a new one on the cheap. Find a deal and snag it, and take it (new or not) immediately to have it calibrated and your set. Its unfortunate but alot of them are slightly off the get go. Bummer.Twiggy… that’s an awesome idea. Never heard of that before, and I’m with Beefy, a tutorial would be very sweet indeed ;P
I had a no start no crank issue today. Got out. Cleaned the terminals, tightened down the leads… and voila. Started right up.
It’s surprising what a bad ground (a lil corrosion, loosen or broken) will do to an electrical system. My money is on a bad ground. You said the alternator and battery are new but did you (yourself or a mechanic) check the voltage with key on/ engine off and the while cranking? Double Check, as it’s always better to check twice then go on a ghost hunt.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1052360841 … 3206498802
Pick up a Haynes, Chiltons or Factory Service manual. Type in “Chiltons” in the search function and you can have access to their online library.
Depending on the Car (fuel injected vs. Carb) it will be mech controlled or controlled by the PCM/ECU/ECM. What you’re looking for isn’t that, but a part of the system thats not doing its job, such as a clogged air filter, malfunctioning IAC valve.
choose a system and work forward on it, double check everything and then move onto the next one.
1. First go ahead and do a fuel pressure test between the fuel rail and after the filter. Do it at idle and WOT, as well as snap tests and after the car has been of for a 10 or so minutes. It should stay consistently w/in your cars specs (once again snag a manual or that).
2. I’d run a compression test and once again look to see if it’s somewhere in the factory specs.
3. As for spark, lets check your battery first key on, engine off and then at idle and WOT. It should be reading somewhere near 12.5 volts without engine running. With the car on it should jump up into the 13 to 14.5 volt range (depends on the car) as the alt. Charges the battery.
Anyways thats a start, some more experienced peeps can chime in here. Start here and lets work forward.
As Eric and Dreamer mentioned, msifires can destroy your cats as the unburnt VOC’s can wreak havoc on your cats as its overheats and starts clogging because it can’t do it’s job if it’s flooded. If it got clogged enough it could choke out your engine, but you’d see that at neutral too and usually it will start and then choke out as it’s like someone putting a straw in your mouth and asking you to run a mile. The problem will increase as your rpms increase (as you ask the engine to breathe faster). This will cause a stall/choke out at higher rpms. If you really want to test it, unhook your catalytic converter and run the engine, if it’s backpressure it suddenly run better. Also you can temp test it as someone mentioned or do an exhause analyzer… chooose whatever you can get your hands on.
I’d start by making sure you have the manu’s recommended plugs in, as aftermarket plugs can cause misfires. And then I’d support the above posts and run some diagnostics first before you throw parts at it. You need spark, air and fuel to get a good running engine (and compression) so start there and work through each system. Check Twice… Fix once.
Manually search through this section, there about 6 or 8 topics already on this. A few topics down theres a discussion on autoenguinity/ etc for pc. Search there first and you might find what your looking for. What features are you needing from your scan tool?
I agree with college man, your first step should be to isolate/pinpoint the source of it. Good luck and keep us posted!
I agree with DJ Devon, I’ll have to pull up the specs on your car but I know my car has the in line on the bottom.
Here’s your Fuel pressure specs
40 to 47psi with vacuum hose disconnected
[color=#000000]30 to 38psi with vacuum hose connectedokie dokie I think you have them backwards bud, once the fuel pressure exceeds 36 psi that diaphragm is pushed up and out of the way on your vehicle and the excess fuel is dumped. Which means if you plugged it in the wrong way… you’re getting 40-47psi, which will cause that fuel dump.[/color]
Not necessarily. The diaphragm moving out of the way doesn’t mean it’s ruptured if he simply put the line in backwards. Once you have the lines reinstalled correctly and you’ve cleaned off the FPR and it’s vacuum hose…. run the car without the vacuum hose attached. If it’s not dripping, spraying or leaking after 5 minutes (put a white napkin on it to see if it is) then you’re good to keep using it.
However, you might of unintentionally ripped or torn your diaphragm witht the increase in pressure going the wrong way, even though it is designed on your Civic to prevent you from doing just that. Hopefully it’s not and all is well.
I hear ScannerDanner in my head now telling me that 5 volt references are used because they that can be consistent whereas battery voltage is not… lol however Ford has been known to not include 5 volt references on some of their vehicles where this is done internally in the MAF. This particular car is a Ford/Mazda hybrid as it was put together in the States but the engine was built overseas.
-My MAF is a Hot Wire type MAF that heats up the wire to 212
You’re thinking of Ignition timing which the PCM/ICM control. I’m talking about Valve timing, the actual mechanical timing of when the valves open and close relative to the crankshaft rotation (piston position) which can only be adjusted via Advancing or retarding cam position, which in turn means irrelevant of when the spark occurs the valves will open or close a little sooner or a little later.
I know some enthusiasts out there mess with Valve and Ignition timing, especially with programmable PCM’s/ECU, for performance gains, my valve timing however was just human error.
You can create your own timing marks using a degree wheel on a crankshaft and a piston stop if for say… you have a crank sprocket/gear without the timing marks on it like a lot of older British cars do with their timing chains. All you need to do is find TDC manually and mark it and you now have new Timing marks. Same is true with Cam sprockets that have markings or are put in the wrong key. Simply manually find TDC of the valves (multiple ways people go about this, the least of which is “eyeing it” or using a straight edge on rocker assembly single valve set ups), make the mark on the cam shaft and an aligning marking on the engine housing (or as FSM has, on the other sprocket) and Voila. New timing. That easy… not really lol, you have to know what you’re doing and a little theory behind it (where the cam lobes are positioned relative to the valve lifters at TDC on the compression stroke) and I guess a little trial and error…. Hell some people do this and take it to have it dyno’d. Each microadjustment they go and look at either the gains or decreases and then adjust accordingly.
Anyways I don’t really know enough to go into great detail, a power enthusiast would probably do a better and more accurate job of explaining it, but in short… my valves were at the wrong position because the sprockets were at the wrong position. Pics and Vid’s forthcoming to help illustrate what I’m saying… or at least…. I hope it’ll be helpful. lol.
