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I’ll try that tomorrow. I understand the basics of how to use a multimeter. So I probe the connection coming from the wiring harness that the motor plugs into, correct?
Ok. Thank you! But wouldn’t it go back up, then, when I press the switch “down”? It doesn’t, though. I know it could be the master switch, but I replaced it with one from the junk yard and that didn’t resolve the issue. I’ve found a new one on ebay for about $12. I may get that and just try it out. But I really dislike just throwing parts at a problem.
How do I fix that? And would that cause it to run only in one direction? When it’s all the way up, it goes down when I pull the switch “up”. But once it’s all the way down, it will not go back up at all with the switch. I have to apply current directly to the motor lead to get it to go back up.
I don’t know how to read a wiring diagram and am not sure what to do with it. Also, do you think it was the master switch given that I tried the original plus another I got from the junk yard, and neither solved the issue? I could try a new one, as long as they’ll let me return it.
Very first thing I’d check is the transmission fluid level. There should be instructions in your owner’s manual on how to do this, but generally the engine has to be idling and the transmission warm, but this may vary slightly from vehicle to vehicle. If your level is super low, this can cause issues similar to what you describe. And if it’s low, you probably have a leak.
No. It’s blurry and unreadable no matter what I do. Also, do you think it’s the master switch given that I’ve tried two different switches (the original and one from a junk yard) and neither solved the issue? And sorry if this is a stupid question, but what am I supposed to do with this wiring diagram? Idk how to “read” one.
Thank you! Would that cause the slave switch to work in only one direction (and the “wrong” one at that)? I thought it was the master switch, and I tried another from the junk yard and it didn’t solve the issue. I guess it’s possible I got a bad switch, though.
When were the spark plugs and wires last replaced? Could be that. Could be a MAF sensor. Could be IAC or throttle position sensor. You’d have to do more testing. The cheapest thing to try first would be cleaning the MAF sensor. Most auto parts stores sell MAF cleaner. If that doesn’t do it, I’d replace the plugs and wires (and check that the coils (or distributor) are working properly).
What are lineman pliers?
I’m sorry, but I can’t help you with the relay. I’m not knowledgeable in that area. But on most cars, once you unbolt the compressor, there’s some amount of play in the AC lines, so you can move it around to get it into a better position. For my compressor, the best way to access it is to take off the front passenger side wheel, and there’s a little access panel under there.
Like you said, see if the clutch engages when you supply current directly to it. If not, I’d look at the coil. While you’re there, test the wires that go to the coil and make sure it’s actually getting power.
I probably have too many tools. Lol.
A jack and 4 jack stands
I have standard sets of 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″ drive ratchets and sockets, both deep well and shallow. This also includes a few adapters and extensions
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers of various lengths and bit sizes.
7-16, and 19 mm combination wrenches. I also have a set of ratcheting combination wrenches. I love them, but my main complaint is that the ratcheting head is a bit too thick to fit into some applications.
A couple of AC service tools. Specifically a manifold gauge set and an oil injector tool.
3/8″ and 1/2″ drive 18″ breaker bars
A set of assorted impact sockets, both 1/2″ and 3/8″ drive
An air impact
A window crank removal tool
Various Torx head bits, including the “security” bits
A tri-wing screwdriver that I use only for opening my Gameboy Color
An air angle die grinder
A heat gun
Snap ring pliers with changeable heads
A rubber mallet (when all else fails, hit it with a rubber mallet)
Zip ties
A UV light
A magnetic work light
A battery powered 18 V drill. I also use it to quickly remove nuts/bolts after I break them loose with a ratchet.
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