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Castor oil is vegetable based. I think it was also used in DOT 2 brake fluid as well.
The stuff I use is made by PBR, but I’m not sure if you have a similar brand/product in the USA
Castor oil is vegetable based. I think it was also used in DOT 2 brake fluid as well.
The stuff I use is made by PBR, but I’m not sure if you have a similar brand/product in the USA
Very interesting about the square cut seal, didn’t know about them until this video! As usual, learning heaps from your videos.
On the topic of brake calipers and the like, what do you recommend to re-grease the slide pins? I’ve heard silicone and lithium based greases can eat away at the rubber boots, and so I use a castor oil based product developed for braking applications, but its a bit more expensive. What’s your opinion?
Very interesting about the square cut seal, didn’t know about them until this video! As usual, learning heaps from your videos.
On the topic of brake calipers and the like, what do you recommend to re-grease the slide pins? I’ve heard silicone and lithium based greases can eat away at the rubber boots, and so I use a castor oil based product developed for braking applications, but its a bit more expensive. What’s your opinion?
Oh so it is jammed open? I understand now haha.
Yeah it’s always good to really look at the old part before changing it. I do it with brake pads, spark plugs, tyres, hoses etc. Gives you a good sense of what is happening, and stuff to look out for when it comes time to do it again, or if an issue comes up.
I was going to say, that if apart from the brakes everything was mechanically okay, it might even be the steering wheel/column itself that has been affected? Now I haven’t experienced this at all but I guess it is possible. Same thing happens with pushbikes. The handlebars might point straight but the wheel certainly doesn’t.
Maybe try take the wheel off and see if it or the steering column is aligned properly? Depending on how hard the hit was, it may have been enough to pull it out of position. This would be absolute best case scenario however, as something like this would more usually be mechanical. But it never hurts to look at the cheapest and easiest stuff first!
Oh so it is jammed open? I understand now haha.
Yeah it’s always good to really look at the old part before changing it. I do it with brake pads, spark plugs, tyres, hoses etc. Gives you a good sense of what is happening, and stuff to look out for when it comes time to do it again, or if an issue comes up.
I was going to say, that if apart from the brakes everything was mechanically okay, it might even be the steering wheel/column itself that has been affected? Now I haven’t experienced this at all but I guess it is possible. Same thing happens with pushbikes. The handlebars might point straight but the wheel certainly doesn’t.
Maybe try take the wheel off and see if it or the steering column is aligned properly? Depending on how hard the hit was, it may have been enough to pull it out of position. This would be absolute best case scenario however, as something like this would more usually be mechanical. But it never hurts to look at the cheapest and easiest stuff first!
As Eric’s said in a few of his videos, good quality hand tools pay dividends. If you’re starting your auto tech career I’d definitely do the same. I work on cars as a hobby, as I’m studying civil engineering as a career, but I still find heaps of worth in good quality tools. One of the first sets of tools I bought was a high quality, lifetime warranty socket set. You can feel the weight and the quality every time you pick them up. I love it.
Obviously being a tech, you’ll be using them a lot more often than the average home mechanic. For us, breaking a poor quality ratchet might not be so bad, we can head down to the store that day or later and get a new one. When you’re in the middle of the job, from what I’ve learnt from Eric’s flat rate videos (remembering I have no professional experience in the industry), you don’t want to be breaking tools on a daily basis. If a poor ratchet is only good for x amount of use, obviously as a technician you’ll reach that a lot faster than a regular guy.
As Eric’s said in a few of his videos, good quality hand tools pay dividends. If you’re starting your auto tech career I’d definitely do the same. I work on cars as a hobby, as I’m studying civil engineering as a career, but I still find heaps of worth in good quality tools. One of the first sets of tools I bought was a high quality, lifetime warranty socket set. You can feel the weight and the quality every time you pick them up. I love it.
Obviously being a tech, you’ll be using them a lot more often than the average home mechanic. For us, breaking a poor quality ratchet might not be so bad, we can head down to the store that day or later and get a new one. When you’re in the middle of the job, from what I’ve learnt from Eric’s flat rate videos (remembering I have no professional experience in the industry), you don’t want to be breaking tools on a daily basis. If a poor ratchet is only good for x amount of use, obviously as a technician you’ll reach that a lot faster than a regular guy.
The dodgy caliper is definitely a problem, at the very least you’ll burn through brake pads at a rate of knots.
Apart from this, does it seem to drive okay? Any noises/vibrations?
The dodgy caliper is definitely a problem, at the very least you’ll burn through brake pads at a rate of knots.
Apart from this, does it seem to drive okay? Any noises/vibrations?
Oh okay, that does sound fairly similar. For the learners permit, you need a written test. for the P plates, its a 20 minute drive test, plus a computerised hazards perception test (a video plays and you click when it would be safe to change lanes, brake, whatever).
In a few other Australian states (New South Wales and I think some others) they also have the restriction to 80km/h on highways on learners permits and P plates, but not in Victoria.
Yeah trucks and buses require a Heavy Vehicle licence, and there are some different grades for the licences as well, from light commercial trucks all the way up to B-Doubles etc. From my knowledge you have to be a full licenced driver to get these though (off your Ps, so at the least age 22)
Oh okay, that does sound fairly similar. For the learners permit, you need a written test. for the P plates, its a 20 minute drive test, plus a computerised hazards perception test (a video plays and you click when it would be safe to change lanes, brake, whatever).
In a few other Australian states (New South Wales and I think some others) they also have the restriction to 80km/h on highways on learners permits and P plates, but not in Victoria.
Yeah trucks and buses require a Heavy Vehicle licence, and there are some different grades for the licences as well, from light commercial trucks all the way up to B-Doubles etc. From my knowledge you have to be a full licenced driver to get these though (off your Ps, so at the least age 22)
If you need to change the brake pads on one side, there’s a very big chance that the other side will closely follow. So definitely worth doing them at the same time.
As for if the rears need to be done, because the majority of the braking is done by the front brakes, they will wear much faster. Good to check them also, but you can get away with not doing them as often.
Not as much of an issue with pads, but when I put steel braided brake hoses on my car, they advised never to change just one side, as the uneven brake pressure could cause BIG problems. With something like that you have to do all 4. But brake pads won’t have those same issues. But still best to change them in pairs (2 fronts/2 rears)
If you need to change the brake pads on one side, there’s a very big chance that the other side will closely follow. So definitely worth doing them at the same time.
As for if the rears need to be done, because the majority of the braking is done by the front brakes, they will wear much faster. Good to check them also, but you can get away with not doing them as often.
Not as much of an issue with pads, but when I put steel braided brake hoses on my car, they advised never to change just one side, as the uneven brake pressure could cause BIG problems. With something like that you have to do all 4. But brake pads won’t have those same issues. But still best to change them in pairs (2 fronts/2 rears)
Yeah I love them! The Falcons have been around here since the 60s, but I’m not sure if they will be around for too much longer. Ford want to make a ‘world car’ and there isn’t a market for the Falcon large sedans overseas.
We’ve been getting Mondeos exported here for the last couple of years. Not to mention the newer Falcons closely resembling the Mondeos.
Each state has it’s own legislation for P plate (probationary) drivers. Because we obviously have less experience, there are a few restrictions. One of them is no V8s, no turbo/supercharged cars etc, along with some other stuff. Although it is annoying, I can understand why they do it. A high powered car does not mix with a driver with little experience.
I’m not sure if America has the same sort of thing, but in the state I live in (Victoria), our licencing goes like this:
16 yo – can get your Learners permit, must only drive with a fully licenced supervising driver (eg a parent)
18 yo – can get your Red P plates, which are for one year, but only if you have completed 120 hours of driving on your Learners permit in your log book.After 1 year on your Red Ps, you get your Green Ps. There are a few less restrictions, and you have them for 3 years. After that, you are fully licenced.
A good system in theory, and although us youngin’s do like to complain about it, it’s probably for the best. A good way to ‘ease’ people into driving.