[Thaik]

ScannerDanner, if I unplug the knock sensor and the car does run better, what will I be able to conclude, that the problem is indeed internal and really caused by the sensor?
But, just by hearing the knocking itself and knowing that it comes from the upper part of the engine, do you have an idea what could internally caused that knock?

Thanks

[Thaik]

First of all, thank you for all for responding
and thank you Beefy for you honesty, I appreciate it.
Well, I said it doesn’t sound that bad from a certain point of view. Because many people heard it and thought it was normal.

About the valve adjustment, we just did one last summer, and it didn’t seem to have made any difference, I think gas mileage improved a little but that’s all, knocking noise was still there. I also tried to pin point the noise, it definitely comes from the top, the engine block is totally silent.
I have to say that now the car belongs to us, it’s been very well maintained, oil level is constantly checked and replaced regularly, 5W-20 is the oil the engine is running on.
No, the car doesn’t overheat at all, which is really weird, when I say the noise gets worse, it’s not that bad, but after a long trip, the power loss and the knocking is really obvious.
Timing belt, tensionner, and water pump has been replaced and the coolant was flushed out too.

About the knocking sensor, I heard we normally get a Check Engine Light for these kind of problem, but I don’t have any! I sure would be happy if the Check Engine Light appears from time to time, at least I would have an idea about the problem, but no. It’s as if the car is pretending to be healthy when it’s not, really frustrating. Also ScannerDanner, I can’t see the link you’ve written, all I see is http://www.youtube.com, just like mine. It seems this forum is blocking links or something…
I also forgot to mention that when it’s stone cold, like once when we did the timing belt, the engine was left for two days cold, and when we started all the noises started disappearing, but when the engine picked some heat, noises started to come back all together again.

Here’s the condition of the engine:
-Engine doesn’t overheat
-Engine doesn’t burn oil (using 5W-20)
-Engine has decent fuel economy
-Engine doesn’t produce white, blue or black smoke (coming from tail pipe)
-Engine has good compression test results (around 200 psi for all cylinders)
-Engine timing has been checked and is timed (timing belt done)
-Valve adjustment has been done (0.008 for intake and 0.0010 for exhaust side)
-No check engine light has appeared since the day we have the car, and noise has been present until now(not first owner)

Considering all these, I cannot understand how the engine can be bad.

Also, I forgot to mention that engine noise/performance seems to affected by weather, on cold dry days, it runs fine, on hot humid days, it runs like crap.

Again, thank you for your feedbacks

[Thaik]

Thanks!
I’m really grateful to be here, in other forums, people don’t really bother to answer even when the topic has been started a long time ago.
Sometime I just feel so fed up with the car that I want to sell it, question is, will I be able to sell it with that noise? =/

[Thaik]

I watched the video.
You can actually unplug a knock sensor and let the engine run without it?
I guess I will try someday, but the problem in video still seems to be originally located inside the engine.
I believe my problem is very similar to that woman’s car in the video, except that my car doesn’t drive any better at wide open throttle,
my car just doesn’t like to rev and that’s why I always shift at 3000 RPM, after that, the engine is noisy, rough, and power is there.

[Author]

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