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Good afternoon,
I have several updates:
I bought a new catalytic converter and I already have it on my hands. I won’t install it before I solve the remaining problems and I can return it if needed.
I also managed to buy a compression tester and a a socket that fits over the spark plugs. I removed two of them (one from cylinder one that was responding as supposed in the power balance test and the other from cylinder two that was not responding as it should). I toke some pictures and from what I have researched, they have carbon fouling. Here are some pictures:
After that I changed the spark plug from Cyl1 to cyl2 and vice-versa. Upon re-doing the power balance test, I noticed that the behavior stayed the same: cyl2 kept not responding as it should in the test. It is possible to notice a minor difference in noise but it is not comparable to the other cylinders.
This car is OBD2 compliant but my scanner can’t talk to the ECU. Its a common problem on the cheap ELM237 scanners.
I will now do a spark test and then do a compression test (my first one). Where can I find the standard values of compression for this car?
I’ll have to watch the ETCG video on this to learn how to do it. Thank you!
Update:
I managed to remove the last bolt that was holding a section of the exhaust to the catalytic converter (heat to the bolt).
The pipe had pieces of the catalytic converter inside that I removed and the catalytic itself looks like what the following photos show (in the link bellow).
What should I do now? The catalytic converter seems beyond recovery, right? Should I gut it while I don’t put a new one in? In fact, should I even put a new one in?
Another thing: as you can see in the photo that shows the pipe that goes to the muffler, the pieces of the CC stopped on top of the O2 sensor. In fact, it seems that they got “welded” to it. I managed to remove them but is there any chance that the rough idle is because this broke the sensor?
Thank you!
Hello everyone!
Sorry for the delay in aswering. It was exam time at school 😛
So, this week I managed to get time to try a few more things.
I’ve noticed that the hoses going to the heater core were both hot so the problem was not in the water circulation.
So, I tought that the problem should be somewhere in the system that says from where the air is coming to the vents (hot or cold).
Long story short I removed the dash and noticed that a flap was stuck in the cold position. So there was my problem. The screw that holds it in place broke… Since the car is old and is getting a lot of problems everywhere we are going to replace it soon. I “fixed” the problem by fixing that flap to the cold position with a screw.
Also, after doing all of this I noticed that I could have fixed this without removing the dash. So, instead of a 3+ hour job, I could have done it in 15 minutes. Always try the easier thing first!
I’m just updating this post to let someone who might got into the same problem know how to fix it.
Thanks for all the help you gave me!
Hello everyone!
So I managed to take some pictures last night, I’ve added some captions so it is easier to identify what I’ve drawn and what I talk about.
I uploaded them to this link:
In the manual I don’t remember reading anything about any special procedure or a valve. I couldn’t find that valve that would allow the hot liquid to flow to the heater core, yet. It might be there but I am not seeing it, ofcourse.
For some reason I didn’t take any pictures of the firewall and T’s. Ill try to grab them today.
I think I’ll also drain everything again, put the front of the car higher and fill again. I’ll also wait until the liquid drops down with the engine on (if it does drop down).
Ill get back in a few hours. Thanks in advance! 🙂
Hello!
Thank you for your answers 🙂
College man, I already tried that procedure 2 times but I can be doing something wrong 😛
Zwnmaister11 I am pretty sure my diagram is wrong 😛
What I called water pump is not the water pump. I don’t know what it is or what it does. All I know is that it has 3 hoses attached to it: 2 rubber ones that go into the T’s and the firewall and another one made from metal that connects to a place a little after the air filter (as far as I remember). Also, this part that I tought it was the water pump, has electricity connected to it. Maybe it has something to do with the AC but I don’t know.
I guess I’ll have to get my hands dirtier and disassemble more parts so I can see better.
The part that is on the way is the one that can be seen on this link ( https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4c/Hyundai_G4EH_engine_3.jpg/800px-Hyundai_G4EH_engine_3.jpg ) and has ECFI written on it. Is there any risk while disassmbling this part to run accross LPG or something like that?
I’ll try to take some pics of the part in question. It is under the battery so I have to remove it and the panel that supports the battery.
Thanks in advance!
