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October 12, 2014 at 11:00 pm in reply to: Let brake resevior get low while bleeding brakes.. #626667
Well I found a cheap autozone kit with the proper fittings and a bleed hose. Bled the master cylinder twice and each wheel once, brake pedal feels normal again and I had no issues on the way to work today.
October 12, 2014 at 11:00 pm in reply to: Let brake resevior get low while bleeding brakes.. #637287Well I found a cheap autozone kit with the proper fittings and a bleed hose. Bled the master cylinder twice and each wheel once, brake pedal feels normal again and I had no issues on the way to work today.
Yeah I was wiping my hands with a rag but the residual was still soaked into my skin and I inhaled some vapor. I’m probably going to need to get a scan tool and cycle abs a few times
Yeah I was wiping my hands with a rag but the residual was still soaked into my skin and I inhaled some vapor. I’m probably going to need to get a scan tool and cycle abs a few times
You know what, I’ll report back later. I completely forgot I have the dealership service manuals buried out in the garage somewhere. I’ll start with the HVAC sensor a new coolant, if that doesn’t fix it I’ll have to refer to proper diagnosis for the manuals. I sure don’t have the money to pay dealership labor so I hope I don’t break anything else in the process.
You know what, I’ll report back later. I completely forgot I have the dealership service manuals buried out in the garage somewhere. I’ll start with the HVAC sensor a new coolant, if that doesn’t fix it I’ll have to refer to proper diagnosis for the manuals. I sure don’t have the money to pay dealership labor so I hope I don’t break anything else in the process.
Its GM’s 3.4 V6. From the looks of it I wouldn’t be able to get my tools in to remove the rear valve cover. We’re not even sure it’s the head gasket, it could also be the LIM or a cracked block, but since it is the 3.4 I’m pretty sure it’s one of the two gaskets. Her BF told her it just needed a new thermostat but the coolant is low and the exhaust is white as snow.
As for the window, I’ll inform her aftermarket is the best route but her income is very limited. I’ll get prices and get back with her.
Completely unrelated question, ASE certification. How do practice tests reflect upon the actual test? I took a practice test online today and got 71%, which I was pleased with since I haven’t read anything in my book pertaining to brakes since I took my brakes class back in Spring of 2012. I realize the ASE test is going to involve a lot more questions but I seemed to have aced the harder Tech A and B scenario questions.
Its GM’s 3.4 V6. From the looks of it I wouldn’t be able to get my tools in to remove the rear valve cover. We’re not even sure it’s the head gasket, it could also be the LIM or a cracked block, but since it is the 3.4 I’m pretty sure it’s one of the two gaskets. Her BF told her it just needed a new thermostat but the coolant is low and the exhaust is white as snow.
As for the window, I’ll inform her aftermarket is the best route but her income is very limited. I’ll get prices and get back with her.
Completely unrelated question, ASE certification. How do practice tests reflect upon the actual test? I took a practice test online today and got 71%, which I was pleased with since I haven’t read anything in my book pertaining to brakes since I took my brakes class back in Spring of 2012. I realize the ASE test is going to involve a lot more questions but I seemed to have aced the harder Tech A and B scenario questions.
Aye, common sense. Can’t find anyone to hire me besides lube shops so what I’ve gotten a bit rusty when it comes to what I’ve learned in class.
Got my new pads and rotors on, I’m pleasantly surprised given that I went cheap on rockauto.com. Ended up buying 2 Centric C-Tek Rotors which are just as heavy and and slightly thicker than the AC Delco Durastops I put on 2 years back. I’m holding onto them so I can resurface them in class instead of buying another set in 2 years. Also went with the Centric Premium Ceramic pads which have a larger and thicker shim than the Prime Choice pads I bought for the same price.
I’m going to need to flush my fluid soon, as when I removed fluid from the reservoir there were large black flakes (half the size of my pinky nail) suspended in the fluid.
I do still get belt squeal during cold start ups, but I haven’t noticed it changing with acceleration as it did last Thursday.
We’ll see in the long run how these cheaper parts hold up. Tires are next in line, found a place that will finance with no interest as long as its paid off within 12 months so I’ll finally be able afford some michelins banana:
And as for the rough idle issue, I don’t let the tank go down below a 1/4 anymore. Fuel filter is fine, I have no issues under heavy load (acceleration). If need be I’ll run a fuel injection cleaner through the brake booster hose. Other than that the car is doing fine now.
Aye, common sense. Can’t find anyone to hire me besides lube shops so what I’ve gotten a bit rusty when it comes to what I’ve learned in class.
Got my new pads and rotors on, I’m pleasantly surprised given that I went cheap on rockauto.com. Ended up buying 2 Centric C-Tek Rotors which are just as heavy and and slightly thicker than the AC Delco Durastops I put on 2 years back. I’m holding onto them so I can resurface them in class instead of buying another set in 2 years. Also went with the Centric Premium Ceramic pads which have a larger and thicker shim than the Prime Choice pads I bought for the same price.
I’m going to need to flush my fluid soon, as when I removed fluid from the reservoir there were large black flakes (half the size of my pinky nail) suspended in the fluid.
I do still get belt squeal during cold start ups, but I haven’t noticed it changing with acceleration as it did last Thursday.
We’ll see in the long run how these cheaper parts hold up. Tires are next in line, found a place that will finance with no interest as long as its paid off within 12 months so I’ll finally be able afford some michelins banana:
And as for the rough idle issue, I don’t let the tank go down below a 1/4 anymore. Fuel filter is fine, I have no issues under heavy load (acceleration). If need be I’ll run a fuel injection cleaner through the brake booster hose. Other than that the car is doing fine now.
Well I saw her about a week ago and she (my friend) said the pedal doesn’t feel any different than before I worked on it. My pads are low at the moment (about an 1/8 inch from the squealers) and my pedal isn’t dropping to the floor like her’s is so I’m pretty sure it’s the master cylinder.
Well I saw her about a week ago and she (my friend) said the pedal doesn’t feel any different than before I worked on it. My pads are low at the moment (about an 1/8 inch from the squealers) and my pedal isn’t dropping to the floor like her’s is so I’m pretty sure it’s the master cylinder.
Thicker than a nickle so enough meat to pass inspection. If I had to guess about a 1/4 inch.
Thicker than a nickle so enough meat to pass inspection. If I had to guess about a 1/4 inch.
Yes, 4 wheel anti-lock disc brakes. Pedal is firm and doesn’t sink when the engine is off. Bled the brakes until clean fluid and no air bubbles came out and it still has low pedal.
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