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Well it appears I’ve found the culprit…. The guide pin in question will push all the way in but not allowed the caliper to move away from the rotor. One rotor is darker than the other and is slightly blue.
Called Advanced Auto and asked them about the grease, they ok’d it for rubber. I then told them the issue and they said bring it in this afternoon.
If they acknowledge the screw up they owe me new brake hardware along with pads and rotors.
This will be the LAST TIME I purchase aftermarket anything for my car. I used an Autozone Trans filter a few years back and ended up with fluid Cavitation and rough shifting after changing my fluid. Popped a AC Delco in her and it fixed the issue.
Update.
I purchased new brake hardware from AA for one side of the vehicle after not noticing warped threads and cross threading a bolt. After inspection of the pins the side I replaced doesn’t slide as smoothly as the side that was factory. The rubber grommit for the side that won’t slide easily looks slightly larger.
Before I know who to bitch at let me give you some details..
I also purchased white lithuim grease to lube the pins as directed by a guy at car quest. I’m assuming it’s safe for rubber but correct me if I’m wrong.
Could this issue have the caliper issue and the issue with the pads?
Just wonderful. Car holds in gear, except for reverse with parking brake engaged.
Took it all apart and the passenger rear caliper is sticking. Smelled a little burnt when I got it all apart.
What next? I’m assuming a reman or new caliper?
It appears I have to trace both rear parking brake cables back to a single cable from the pedal and there should be a nut that you tighten that will take up the slack.
It does, I bought the tool to rotate the rear piston back into place, however the cable mechanism that engages the rear parking brake has developed slack since putting the new rear pads and rotors in. I know some vehicles have the adjustment under the center console while others are adjusted directly near the rear caliper. I’m wondering which one it is and what procedure it is.
It does, I bought the tool to rotate the rear piston back into place, however the cable mechanism that engages the rear parking break has developed slack since putting the new rear pads and rotors in. I know some vehicles have the adjustment under the center console while others are adjusted directly near the rear caliper. I’m wondering which one it is and what procedure it is.
LaCrosse, the title header didn’t allow me enough room to input the whole thing.
Same platform as the GP in your picture, 2006 + W-Body.
Parts came in Saturday, got em installed Saturday night. The engine is much more responsive and pulls a bit harder across the entire powerband. At a later point I’m going to grab a tune and throw some stronger valve springs in. Stock ones are fine up but they’re going to wear out quicker. I’m thinking with #105 springs, The #90 springs are reported to be too much for the stock chain due to being a variable rate spring.
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Feel like an idiot now. Didn’t even think to just look for the valve adjacent to the exhaust manifold.
No knock but the engine vibrates loudly, and won’t go over 2k rpm’s under full throttle. Given that the transmission still shifts and starts out in 1st gear I’m guessing all it needs is a fluid change. For some reason Kia has never used filters, just a screen over the pump inlet. Needs special kia fluid as well, found some on Amazon.
Went on rock auto and price out premium parts, tune up and trans fluid change will run me about $150.
No knock but the engine vibrates loudly, and won’t go over 2k rpm’s under full throttle. Given that the transmission still shifts and starts out in 1st gear I’m guessing all it needs is a fluid change. For some reason Kia has never used filters, just a screen over the pump inlet. Needs special kia fluid as well, found some on Amazon.
Went on rock auto and price out premium parts, tune up and trans fluid change will run me about $150.
The two man method of bleeding brakes works wonders for that darn proportioning valve, if I would’ve used the cheap vacuum tester I used before it would’ve taken quite a bit longer. I’m wondering however if I should do a panic stop on a gravel road to cycle the fluid through the abs module and solenoid. My gfs brother is telling me if there was air in the mechanisms id have an red abs light is this correct?
The two man method of bleeding brakes works wonders for that darn proportioning valve, if I would’ve used the cheap vacuum tester I used before it would’ve taken quite a bit longer. I’m wondering however if I should do a panic stop on a gravel road to cycle the fluid through the abs module and solenoid. My gfs brother is telling me if there was air in the mechanisms id have an red abs light is this correct?
