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Luckily that won’t be necessary. I took a closer look and to be assholes it appears they used red loctite. No blueing or spot on the tie rods. For $40 I can grab a mapp gas to torch and do it myself.
Pretty sure I found the issue. Took the passenger rear off, double checked all bolts and applied blue loctite to the hub assembly bolts and the caliper mounting bracket bolts.
Spun the tire by hand and noticed slight side to side movement but then the track rod caught my attention. Looks like I may have hit a pothole or curb.
May have found my issue. Took my car in to be aligned before I installed the new hub I had warrantied out. All checked out but I notice they don’t use torque wenches, just ran it down and then some.
I’ve noticed for about a year now when I torque my wheels (which I ALWAYS do) I have to go over each nut in a star pattern numerous times before the lug nuts no longer turn. This was following a visit after I called corporate because they failed to honor a price match that THEY offered me when I refused a 5 year alignment package in favor of a competitors lifetime alignment package.
After 3 years they refused to honor the price match so I called corporate. The following visit is when I noticed the wheels needing numerous passes before the wheel would sit flush against the hub. I’ll be taking the wheels in to get checked out soon.
The wobble and grinding are both gone for the moment. I’m noticing a pattern now.
I’m taking it in the morning to have a complete check over of the steering and suspension components. When I first was told my passenger front bearing was bad was early last month. Prior to that I had a grinding which I believed was the used tires; not the primewells, these were goodyears I purchased used with 3/32 tread just to pass inspection.
I replaced those with Pirelli’s and had an alignment done. I was informed the passenger front was bad, however I never received my slip showing that an alignment was done. After replacing the passenger front wheel hub I noticed a WAP WAP WAP coming from the rear and called this shop, was told that they only found play in the passenger front. A week later the passenger rear goes bad. I replaced it, within a day or so the passenger front went out again. Just replaced it Friday morning under warranty (after 700 miles it overheated and seized up). Now both the wobble and grinding are alternating rapidly.
If the alignment is correct I’m assuming something is wrong with my driver side of the vehicle that is causing undue stress on the passenger side and eating my wheel hubs at an alarming rate.
I’m at a loss right now. The wobble went away and the car drove fine briefly, but the passenger front is grinding again.
That’s 3 wheel hubs in a month. Any idea what’s going on?
Rotation was the next step on my mind as well. I hope to hell it isn’t the bearing. That’s two in a row that were bad. First one overheated and seized
The Timken just failed today. Timken tired to give me the runaround but RockAuto is standing by their warranty.
I always use jack stands. It not only can save your life but it will save the car from being damaged if the jack fails.
HP ain’t cheap. I spent 1200 in bolt ons for my 3.8 six banger and only gained 35-40 crank horsepower. As a result of increasing power if I take the car over 4.5k RPMs on 87 octane I end up throwing a P0106 code due to a lean condition and misfires/knock retard. I can’t beat on it unless I have 93 octane.
I doubt you’ll find much help here, but your best bet is to head over to LS1tech and shoot them an inquiry on the forums.
I’ve read plenty of threads on there similar to your build where people have made budget drag engines using iron Vortec blocks and LS heads/cam/intake.
One last bit of info, the crossthreaded bolt only turned about 1/16th of a full turn before the wrench clicked. Not like it kept spinning around.