Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I been continuously having issues with the car doing the fluttering dash thing. Sometimes I can get it to start and sometimes it’s just dead. I have found when I disconnect the battery and reconnect, it will start. Is this a computer issue that when I disconnect it clears memory or is there a ground issue somewhere I need to find?
Anybody got any ideas before I take this car into Honda? It did it again today. It has been running good and then today I pulled into the driveway, shut the car off. Then 10 mins later went to start it and nothing. Click, Click, Click as I stepped on the clutch and turned the key and the dash fluttered like it was obsessed by a demon. I unhooked the battery and cleaned the terminal. The battery is brand new. I did a test with my ohmmeter of the alternator and checked all the fuses, Could this be a bad starter?
I have good lines made from Classic Tube. Made In USA
http://www.classictube.comThey even made me the Early Evaporation Line. GM quick carrying many parts fo rmy 1998 so it’s good to find good trustworthy companies in the good ol’ USA
I have good lines made from Classic Tube. Made In USA
http://www.classictube.comThey even made me the Early Evaporation Line. GM quick carrying many parts fo rmy 1998 so it’s good to find good trustworthy companies in the good ol’ USA
Got the leak fixed. It was the heated frost plug. The heater was rusted from being old and it was leaking going down the road. That’s why I didn’t have a puddle most all of the time. We did a compression check on the cooling system and the motor. No problems were found except the frost plug being bad.
It’s a nice feeling to know your vehicle is running good. 🙂Found that the intake gasket is an issue. See link below.
http://www.frugalcarowner.com/engine-repair/chevy-vortec-mystery-coolant-leak/
I found the problem with the head lights. It was the dimmer switch and not the headlight switch. Current runs through the dimmer to the headlight switch. Tilting the steering wheel overtime will crack the wires. As the wires strands break the remaining wire strands get more current applied to them causing the entire wire to burn off. Seems Chevrolet has an ongoing track record of this. The wire harness is taped to close to the switch not allowing much flex of wires when tilting the wheel.
See pics below.
I replaced the AC Delco (357.00) with BWD (203.99) switch. I usually don’t replace electrical with no other than OEM but in this case I didn’t see spending the extra money. BWD has great reviews.
I found the problem with the head lights. It was the dimmer switch and not the headlight switch. Current runs through the dimmer to the headlight switch. Tilting the steering wheel overtime will crack the wires. As the wires strands break the remaining wire strands get more current applied to them causing the entire wire to burn off. Seems Chevrolet has an ongoing track record of this. The wire harness is taped to close to the switch not allowing much flex of wires when tilting the wheel.
See pics below.
I replaced the AC Delco (357.00) with BWD (203.99) switch. I usually don’t replace electrical with no other than OEM but in this case I didn’t see spending the extra money. BWD has great reviews.
No the truck was in an accident this past winter with damage to the front clip of the passenger side. The wires must have got pinched cutting off the plug and the auto body shop I had fix it did something to make the headlights work temporally until now. The wires were tucked under the battery tray. I didn’t see the mess until the headlights quit working and did some digging. I am going to the junk yard this weekend to get that portion of headlight harness.
The only mystery to me still is how the fat black wire connects to the plug. I know it’s the ground but it stops at the female plug. As you can see there is no third wire at the male plug. Maybe Chevy puts it there for the reason you stated…for alarm hookup.
No the truck was in an accident this past winter with damage to the front clip of the passenger side. The wires must have got pinched cutting off the plug and the auto body shop I had fix it did something to make the headlights work temporally until now. The wires were tucked under the battery tray. I didn’t see the mess until the headlights quit working and did some digging. I am going to the junk yard this weekend to get that portion of headlight harness.
The only mystery to me still is how the fat black wire connects to the plug. I know it’s the ground but it stops at the female plug. As you can see there is no third wire at the male plug. Maybe Chevy puts it there for the reason you stated…for alarm hookup.
No alarm. I have running lights and they work (both of them) I have no headlights Hi or Low beam when I turn the headlight switch to the 12:00 position. The horn is coming off that same wire harness though.
The only thing throwing me for a loop is the 3rd fatter black wire. Does the plug ground somehow?
No alarm. I have running lights and they work (both of them) I have no headlights Hi or Low beam when I turn the headlight switch to the 12:00 position. The horn is coming off that same wire harness though.
The only thing throwing me for a loop is the 3rd fatter black wire. Does the plug ground somehow?
Came to the conclusion that I have cut off wires on the rider side. The headlight switch is fine. And also the connection to it from the harness.
I need some help finding out how to rewire the cut-off wires though. I sent pics of the wire problem. The plug shown goes to the riders side headlight. The three cut-off wires go to the horn and to the main headlight harness to the drivers side.
My question is why do I have three wires (black. green, brown)on the cut-off wires and only two on the (green/brown) plug. Please see pics.
Can someone help me out of how these are to connect or what’s going on here?
