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ok finally fixed the issue. it was the ignition coil that out of spec. it was 0.9ohm instead of 0.63-0.77 mentioned in the service manual. replaced it with a new OE coil and now the car works perfectly.
ok finally fixed the issue. it was the ignition coil that out of spec. it was 0.9ohm instead of 0.63-0.77 mentioned in the service manual. replaced it with a new OE coil and now the car works perfectly.
ok after some google it is the fuel pulsation damper. do you know if the screw on top of it is for adjustment purpose or its just to hold the cap on? the USDM service manual doesnt have this thing.
THanks for adviceshttp://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501/crazyminis/fuel_rail.jpg
ok after some google it is the fuel pulsation damper. do you know if the screw on top of it is for adjustment purpose or its just to hold the cap on? the USDM service manual doesnt have this thing.
THanks for adviceshttp://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501/crazyminis/fuel_rail.jpg
thanks Eric. any idea on the component that circled in red on the picture? the USDM version doesnt have it. I dont know if i need to leave the screw loose or tighten it all the way up. please advise. thanks.
thanks Eric. any idea on the component that circled in red on the picture? the USDM version doesnt have it. I dont know if i need to leave the screw loose or tighten it all the way up. please advise. thanks.
Hi,
timing was correct and i continue to check on every parts than could cause the problem. i found the some EGR ports/passages were clogged and i cleaned it. Also, i found a components on the fuel rail and has a white plastic cover. when i removed the plastic cover, i found a screw on top and it almost dropped out. what is that compnent and whats the screw for? should i tighten it all the way up? i just worry if it was intentionally left in this way. THanks for advise.
Attachments:Hi,
timing was correct and i continue to check on every parts than could cause the problem. i found the some EGR ports/passages were clogged and i cleaned it. Also, i found a components on the fuel rail and has a white plastic cover. when i removed the plastic cover, i found a screw on top and it almost dropped out. what is that compnent and whats the screw for? should i tighten it all the way up? i just worry if it was intentionally left in this way. THanks for advise.
Attachments:im having exactly the same problem.
checked many stuffs and all of them are fine.
any worn on the distributor cap and rotor?
im having exactly the same problem.
checked many stuffs and all of them are fine.
any worn on the distributor cap and rotor?
Hi all,
I would like to ask how i should align the camshaft pulley. In the manual, it said i should align the TDC marks on the pulley with the head surface. But i found that there are 2 arrows at the back as shown in the below pictures. After some googling, some manuals said the TDC marks should align with the arrows. please advise which way is correct!. thank you very much!
http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/20130923_1625251.jpg?w=300
http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/20130923_1625171.jpg?w=300
Hi all,
I would like to ask how i should align the camshaft pulley. In the manual, it said i should align the TDC marks on the pulley with the head surface. But i found that there are 2 arrows at the back as shown in the below pictures. After some googling, some manuals said the TDC marks should align with the arrows. please advise which way is correct!. thank you very much!
http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/20130923_1625251.jpg?w=300
http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/20130923_1625171.jpg?w=300
Hi Eric,
i found the timing is 1 tooth off on the camshaft pulley. since i have difficulties to remove the lower timing cover (bolts on idler pulley bracket are kinda stuck) , do you have any tips on removing the rubber plug so that i can break loose the tensioner bolt and shift the belt 1 tooth on the camshaft pulley side? my finger cant really grab the plug and flat head screw driver cant reach there either. Thanks a lot for your advise.
Hi Eric,
i found the timing is 1 tooth off on the camshaft pulley. since i have difficulties to remove the lower timing cover (bolts on idler pulley bracket are kinda stuck) , do you have any tips on removing the rubber plug so that i can break loose the tensioner bolt and shift the belt 1 tooth on the camshaft pulley side? my finger cant really grab the plug and flat head screw driver cant reach there either. Thanks a lot for your advise.
Thanks Eric. I think I gonna recheck the mechanical timing. previously i thought i couldn’t check it without taking off the crankshaft pulley.
actually i did a check on the timing belt few days ago.
the belt tension looked ok.when i moved the camshaft pulley to TDC, the Crankshaft pulley ‘s red mark was pointing to the pointer, means its almost 12degree in advance if i didn’t look at the wrong pointers….
the pointer for ignition timing and mechanical timing should be same one, right?
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