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One another note, as to what to keep for yourself… Mechanics tools are essentially small. Even if you don’t think you will need it, how much space would it really take to stick it in a box? A few small boxes in a closet is not a major inconvience. In the future you may be in a different situation and wish you had not let them go.
Case in point, when I did the valve gassket job on my honda the other day, the car was still at my father’s house. Since I had the valve cover off, I asked if he still had a feeler gauge around. He is almost 70 and gave up on working on cars many many years ago. I searched through a box and pulled out the gauge set that I had played with as a kid. (I remember threats of bodily harm if I bent any of the gauges.) I was able to perform the valve maintenance with a tool that was older than I am, and has a history in my family. That adds something special to the satisfaction of doing the job.
Maybe I am too sentimental. But tools have history. Connections to our people and the past (even though he was not your grandfather) adds value to our lives. Don’t be too quick to discount that. You can always give them away; but you will never get them back.
Nice catch! Glad things did not go sideways for you.
Just for perspective and not to defend the dealership, consider this. They are an independant company. They buy their cars from Toyota. If the truck is out of warranty, they do not get paid for their time and labor. Your beef would be with the factory/company itself. Dealers do have some responsibility to the Marque; but if Toyota is not going to pay them, why should they work for free? A smart service manager might give you a break to earn your business or engender some loyalty. However, as a private company the dealership’s owners might not agree. One never knows.
I think you are making the right decision to find a local shop, especially if it is non warranty related work. Vote with your feet.
After re-reading your post, my answer was not on point. Sorry.
Yes, you should be able to get the nut tight enough with the adjuster. They don’t need to be reefed down upon. Just tight. I would guess you can do that with just the handle of the tool. However, I would take a small wrench and check your first one. If there is not a lot of travel picked up on the first one or two, then you should be good to go.
It only takes a second to double check your work, and will give you peace of mind after you put the valve cover back on.
Good luck.
Dreamer,
I did not. Never occurred to me. Thanks for the tip. The o-rings were toast. They came apart between my fingers. Some of the seals not much better. Once I pulled the rail it was obvious I was not getting a good seal. A few cheap kits and everything snugged down nicely. No leaks.
I will remember next time to take a reading. Thank you.
He mentioned they were MAC. Quick search for long handled needle nose pliers…. Is this your tool?
http:// i176.photobucket.com /albums/w196/35mastr/MacToolsForsale034.jpg
(sorry posting link will not work. Copy and paste above address and remove the space behind the “// ” and .com)
P301801 11″ cutter plyer $25.00 each from this website:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/show … &showall=1
(no product plug or association)
If the pan is cracked and needs to be replaced, what could trying the Epoxy hurt? An old leak is an inconvience, but not critical. The worst that can happen at this point is you lose a little oil, waste a tub of epoxy, and end up replacing the pan anyway.
Since it is an older car, you might be able to find a used pan if you hunt around a little. While you look, see if the JB can do the job.
Thanks everyone. Wanted to get back to this thread. I had time today to pull the valve cover and look at the oil leak issue. Gasket in good shape. Grommetts all looked new. Did not get to tube seals (lower seals.) I am taking Eric’s advice and see if the problem is resolved before pulling the cam train off.
It looked as if a mechanic had used some rtv or other sealer around the boss the grommets mate to. They had black sticky stuff around the perimeter. I carb cleaned, wirebrushed, and wiped the boss clean; and buttoned it all back up. As in the video, the gasket was a pain in the neck. Think I finally got it all where it needs to be. Will run the car for a month and check plugs wells for oil.
Thanks for all the help. It appears on further diagnosis, the problem is fuel related. I continued trouble shooting on that system. Main relay good. fuel pump spinning. Oh look! no flow out of the fuel filter. Checked input line. Strong flow. Replaced the filter. All should be well and good. However,… With fuel pressure in the rail, I find that I have an injector pissing fuel (a good distance, I was impressed.) from just below the electrical connection. Looks like it may be time for new injectors; or new seals at a minimum. Onward through the fog…
Hope everyone had a good weekend. Mine was productive.
Someone after my own heart.
I own one of those lovely 7.3 liters; and have owned a couple of CJ7’s. In fact my last one tried to kill me on Christmas Day 1997 in the Cascade Foothills. CJ’s were the vehicle that taught (forced?) me to learn how to work on vehicles.
Max,
Continued run down on fuel rail is the order of the day. After that timing.
The car cranks healthily but no catch, spark, or sputter. Just the churning of the starter. Check engine light not on. Battery pulled to charge, so codes cleared. None have reappeared. The ground is a good suggestion. I always forget that one crucial piece.
Jason,
Thanks for the feedback. Boots are on tight but do remove easier than others I have seen.
Thanks guys. I will continue the diagnose. I just did not want to overlook this possibility.
