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I know most official shops etc price out labour at around 100 US per hour BEFORE sales tax. While some of the smaller “backyard” mechanics price it out at around 50+ US or so.
So in some cases you might be able to make 100k US here if you are lucky or good at what you do. But at the same point our cost of living is also most likely much higher then in the US
I know most official shops etc price out labour at around 100 US per hour BEFORE sales tax. While some of the smaller “backyard” mechanics price it out at around 50+ US or so.
So in some cases you might be able to make 100k US here if you are lucky or good at what you do. But at the same point our cost of living is also most likely much higher then in the US
[quote=”DOC BENZ” post=69947]all the service I listed is due by time or mileage. the sad thing it will all have to be done in 4 years again[/quote]
Thats pretty insane. But then again its a pretty extreme top of the range sports car. And I guess if you paid 3,000,000 US for one here, then another 13k every now and then for service wouldn’t really be a lot to ask.
[quote=”W00DBar0n” post=69948]Would of been a 797F engine, cab, right/left corner group, deck, and exhaust. Unknown final cost, but the engine alone is 500,000$ so go figure… plus an extra turbo thanks to a lame brain on the other shift who left a rag in the turbo and had it blown through the impeller.[/quote]
Aircraft engine or :P?
[quote=”DOC BENZ” post=69947]all the service I listed is due by time or mileage. the sad thing it will all have to be done in 4 years again[/quote]
Thats pretty insane. But then again its a pretty extreme top of the range sports car. And I guess if you paid 3,000,000 US for one here, then another 13k every now and then for service wouldn’t really be a lot to ask.
[quote=”W00DBar0n” post=69948]Would of been a 797F engine, cab, right/left corner group, deck, and exhaust. Unknown final cost, but the engine alone is 500,000$ so go figure… plus an extra turbo thanks to a lame brain on the other shift who left a rag in the turbo and had it blown through the impeller.[/quote]
Aircraft engine or :P?
13K sounds pretty expensive if its a mandated service and Mercedes ask that you replace all the items you listed. Now on the other hand, if the customer asked for those things changed its a completely different ballgame.
Not a mechanic myself, but I did manage to wreck my work car to such a state that it required repairs coming in at 16,000-17,000 US dollars to get it fixed and get it back on the road. The insurance comped up, but I at the same time I am man enough to admit that yes the fault of the accident was technically mine even if i claim there was concessional circumstances. I have pictures if we want pictures in this thread 🙂
13K sounds pretty expensive if its a mandated service and Mercedes ask that you replace all the items you listed. Now on the other hand, if the customer asked for those things changed its a completely different ballgame.
Not a mechanic myself, but I did manage to wreck my work car to such a state that it required repairs coming in at 16,000-17,000 US dollars to get it fixed and get it back on the road. The insurance comped up, but I at the same time I am man enough to admit that yes the fault of the accident was technically mine even if i claim there was concessional circumstances. I have pictures if we want pictures in this thread 🙂
Chris R, what do you mean?. I can see your link fine, you just have to click the little grey shield and accept unsecure contents for some odd reason.
Chris R, what do you mean?. I can see your link fine, you just have to click the little grey shield and accept unsecure contents for some odd reason.
Mitsubishi Galant VR4 with the Twinturbo V6 2.5 otherwise also known as a Legnum if you go for the stationcar model.
280 stock horsepower directed down to the driveline that Mitsubishi uses on their Evo’s coupled with Active Yaw Control…. MMMMM. Its as if that engine is just asking for its dinky turbo’s to be ripped off and replaced with a proper set of VGT’s(Variable Geometry Turbo) instead :P. And you can’t beat that soft sweet rumble of that V6. I know its not a V8, but that V6 is not half bad.
Mitsubishi Galant VR4 with the Twinturbo V6 2.5 otherwise also known as a Legnum if you go for the stationcar model.
280 stock horsepower directed down to the driveline that Mitsubishi uses on their Evo’s coupled with Active Yaw Control…. MMMMM. Its as if that engine is just asking for its dinky turbo’s to be ripped off and replaced with a proper set of VGT’s(Variable Geometry Turbo) instead :P. And you can’t beat that soft sweet rumble of that V6. I know its not a V8, but that V6 is not half bad.
Often you can not trace the rollback in the cars electronics. We had a rather large scam concerning odometer rollbacks here and the only way they actually found out was because a car dealer bought ex-fleet cars with 200,000+ km on the Odometer and then rolled it back to say 80,000 and then sold the car as having only done 80,000.
The only way they actually found out was another car dealer doing service on the vehicle and wondering why the Diagnostics unit claiming it was a 200K+ Service when the car had only done 80K+.
Here in Denmark you “might” be able to track the rollback, by figuring out who the original seller/dealer was and enquire about the odometer before it was passed on if its a former fleet/leasing vehicle. OR by checking the cars Inspection history, because every time a car has to undergo the official inspection the odometer reading of the car is noted so if that starts fluctuating then something is very much amiss if the seller hasn’t informed you of it.
BUT here its technically not illegal to rollback the odometer if you had to do an Odometer change etc, BUT at the same time the law requires you to make that fact clear to whoever buys the car from you. So if you have a car thats done 250,000 KM, and you get a new Odometer for it that reads like 80,000 and you don’t want to bother with having it dialed forward then you are required by law to make any buyer of the car aware that the Odometer was changed at that and that time, and the reading on the new Odometer was 80K, and the old Odometer read 250K. Sad fact it, most if not all people never do inform any buyer of that fact, or the fact that the Odometer was dialled back.
Proving it actually happened is one thing, getting people charged for doing it and giving them a sentence is a completely second and different thing.
Often you can not trace the rollback in the cars electronics. We had a rather large scam concerning odometer rollbacks here and the only way they actually found out was because a car dealer bought ex-fleet cars with 200,000+ km on the Odometer and then rolled it back to say 80,000 and then sold the car as having only done 80,000.
The only way they actually found out was another car dealer doing service on the vehicle and wondering why the Diagnostics unit claiming it was a 200K+ Service when the car had only done 80K+.
Here in Denmark you “might” be able to track the rollback, by figuring out who the original seller/dealer was and enquire about the odometer before it was passed on if its a former fleet/leasing vehicle. OR by checking the cars Inspection history, because every time a car has to undergo the official inspection the odometer reading of the car is noted so if that starts fluctuating then something is very much amiss if the seller hasn’t informed you of it.
BUT here its technically not illegal to rollback the odometer if you had to do an Odometer change etc, BUT at the same time the law requires you to make that fact clear to whoever buys the car from you. So if you have a car thats done 250,000 KM, and you get a new Odometer for it that reads like 80,000 and you don’t want to bother with having it dialed forward then you are required by law to make any buyer of the car aware that the Odometer was changed at that and that time, and the reading on the new Odometer was 80K, and the old Odometer read 250K. Sad fact it, most if not all people never do inform any buyer of that fact, or the fact that the Odometer was dialled back.
Proving it actually happened is one thing, getting people charged for doing it and giving them a sentence is a completely second and different thing.
Well I would think the rear end would break etc if the E-Diff locked while doing highway speeds or something of that nature.
Well I would think the rear end would break etc if the E-Diff locked while doing highway speeds or something of that nature.
I think we have blue or red antifreeze coolant here. One is for cast iron blocks and the other for aluminium blocks.
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