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From my understanding our cars can run on E85 out of the box, provided they get remapped. BUT seals, gaskets etc for the fuel lines etc will perish since they are not resistant to the alcohol so they will dry out and start cracking etc.
Whenever I needed to jackup my car I just used the “bottom plate” of the suspension instead of risking to bend my chassis by jacking at the wrong point.
My personal experience with breakers yards has been good. Have been able to find some decent parts there for cheap for my used cars to keep them going just that little bit longer 🙂
Well this is a van, and the lights in question are the ones running down the side, are they called side runnings lights or?
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=135880]Because they should know better[/quote]
Even if the tires aren’t worn down or damaged?
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=134300]During the following lawsuit it was brought up that the vehicle just had two tires put on the front then the shop that put the tires on got sued because the other tires were bad and should have been replaced but weren’t.
[/quote]If the tires was already bad/worn down then yes I can see this happen, but if the rear tires was not worn down to the indicator and there was nothing else wrong with them, then I fail to see how the garage can be at fault.
Im surprised its actually a law over there. It isn’t here. Here the legal requirement is just that all 4 tires match in size and type, ie same width, height and size as well summer or winter tires. As far as the law is concerned you are in the clear as long as your 4 winter or summer tires are the same size and as such, no regard for if they are 4 different brands. IT is RECOMMENDED that the newest tires gets put on the rear axle regardless, but its not mandated by law here.
The company i work for just launched or is going to launch a GSM enabled OBDII dongle that people can install in their cars. If/when the car tosses up a fault code or report an error a message will be to sent to my employers. They in turn contact the customer and notify them of the issue or a potential issue arising as well as potentially send out a technician if its an issue severe enough. In a sense the idea is good, but then again a lot of the fault codes are too generic to really be of much use to the average person. Well other than to serve to suggest whether its a problem you can probably keep driving with, or one serious enough to warrant pulling over and waiting.
But returning to the subject at hand. We actually have a company here in Denmark, which does something similar or at least close to what OpenBay are offering. They don’t give you a dongle to install in your car or anything like that. What they do however is at least in some part pretty clever.
Say a car owner is aware of a preexisting condition with his vehicle that he wants to get rectified, or has experienced a weird noise or feeling when driving. That will at least be our baseline. What he would do is logging on to their website or use their mobile app and fill out a detailed description, or as detailed as he/she can make it report detailing what is wrong or what he would like to get fixed.
Said report is then sent through their system and various shops both official and independent can then bid on the assignment, and the 3 lowest bids are then presented to the person. Naturally with a disclaimer in the event that the shop actually has to perform test and diagnosis etc, or with recommendations in the event of “routine” mechanical work (ie suggesting that the waterpump be changed together with x item due to such and such reasons) and other things like that. They are not that big yet, but they are slowly hitting the ground running as more people have started to realise they are around.Well perhaps not exactly lock the electronics so they can’t be tampered with, but enforce logging. Ie that everytime ANYONE messes with the electronics it should get logged somewhere in the car and then be pulled at a later time for audits and such. I live in Denmark and we have some issues with people buying former fleet lease cars with 180k-280k kilometers on them and then hooking them to a computer and using said computer to dial them back to 80-180k or less and then marking them up accordingly.
Several european carmakers did toss their arms up in the air and say that there was no way they would be able to tell that kind of electronic tampering had indeed taken place and the only “safeguard” would be to check the service manual, call a official service technician and enquire about last service and mileage, or check the MOT slips. Out MOT’s are logged electronically so at any time I can take a tag and look up a car and see what the odometer reading was at all its MOT’s. Any low or odd readings usually indicate either a dialback or a new engine/dash.
HAnilsen,
I would tend to agree. Just look at the dreaded EGR valves, made to make cars pollute less. Had less then a starling reputation at first since it caused some of the first cars with it installed to really coke up unless they regularly got the stick. Have driven several cars where the EGR valve gave in because it got coked up, all for the sake of the environment. You would think something that was good for the environment ought to be made more reliable or people would opt to remove it, or simply install a steel plate to simply block it off.
That doesn’t sound good, not at all. I don’t have my own shop, but I have a lot of experience coming into shops as a operator of several company cars. In my experience at least the techs usually spoke with me if I came in and reported an issue rather then simply just go by what was written on the order. And if the “fault report” was ambigious the service writer here usuallly asked me to stay so the tech could ask me.
I don’t drive anything yet, since I just got my full unrestricted license back in December 13, but I am present debating between a Honda Hornet, Honda VFR750, Yamaha XJ600n/Xj6n and a Kawasaki ER-6n or equivalent
I don’t drive anything yet, since I just got my full unrestricted license back in December 13, but I am present debating between a Honda Hornet, Honda VFR750, Yamaha XJ600n/Xj6n and a Kawasaki ER-6n or equivalent
Presently working on getting my motorbike license, but I got the “hots” for an Yamaha XJ600N since that was the bike I used for the first bit on my “training”. The primary “school” bike I will be driving is a Kawasaki ER5 500ccm so I will have to see how I take to that.
But I am looking forward to getting my license and get to driving.
Presently working on getting my motorbike license, but I got the “hots” for an Yamaha XJ600N since that was the bike I used for the first bit on my “training”. The primary “school” bike I will be driving is a Kawasaki ER5 500ccm so I will have to see how I take to that.
But I am looking forward to getting my license and get to driving.