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I got it. What a pain in the ass job but like I said, I didn’t have to remove the dash.
Drove my wife to work this morning and on the way home the engine light came on. Code P0171. OBD II P0171 Fuel System Too Lean (Bank 1). Troubleshooting said start with vacuum leaks. I found that I had cracked the vacuum line boot on top of the intake manifold. The shop when I buy my parts gave me one for free when I went to buy a bulb for the console. Must have leaned on it when I was pulling the hoses off the core.
Everything works great now. Engine light went out after a while.
Now to steam clean the floors. The car stinks!
Forgot to follow up on this.
I replaced the pedal assembly with one from the wreckers. Works no problem now.
Thanks
Freeze Frame Data
DTCFRZF P1125
FUELSYS1 CL
FUELSYS2 — ?
LOAD_PCT(%) 35.6
ECT(C) 9.3
SHRTFT1(%) 0.8
LONGFR1(%) 0.8
MAP(kPa) 52.0
RPM(rpm) 2007
VSS(km/h) 96
SPARKADV(*) 28.0
IAT(C) 37
MAF(g/s) 21.18
TP(%) 21.6
EGR_PCT(%) 4.7
EGR_ERR(%) 3.1
EVAP_PCT(%) 72.5
FLI(%) 59.6
WARM_UPS 5
CLR_DIST(Km) 102
EVAP_VP(pa) -718.75
BARO(kPa) 101
CATTEMP11(C) 751.7
VPWR(V) 14.042
LAOD_ABS(%) 29.4
EQ_RAT 1.004
TP_R(%) 20.0
AAT(C) 35
TP_B(%) 22.0
APP_D(%) 14.6
APP_E(%) 15.7 ?
TAC_PCT(%) 20.8Just drove to work while having the live data running. And, of course, the car ran flawlessly.
The car didn’t go into limp mode but the readings from APP_D and APP_E did not seem to be the same. I know with the code reader there is some lag but it looked like the sensors were reading 1 to 1.5 % different from time to time. At zero throttle both read 0% though.
Here’s a question. If the fault happens while the car is in cruise control can I rule out the APP sensor since it is not functioning while in cruise control?
I am going to buy some automotive electronics cleaner and clean the contacts at the throttle, accelerator and PCM. See if that helps.
Thanks
OK. Thanks. I just found this thread. https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/49715-help-with-cel-please
I took her out with the live data hooked up and it went into limp mode 3 minutes from my house. I was only watching the TP sensors and they look like they are correlating ok. I wasn’t looking at the APP sensors. Didn’t know to look at that until I read the thread above.
Going to go back out and see if I can get it to repeat the limp mode while watching TP and APP for correlation.
Update.
Changed the water pump and timing belt and no start.
Pretty sure I bent valves when the belt went. (remember to change your timing belts kids 🙁 )
I am going to do a leak down test but I need to build a leak down tester first.
Once I know that the valves are bent I will take the head off and inspect.
If the pistons don’t look damaged I will be replacing the head as a complete assembly. I can get one pretty cheap.
Does this make sense or am I missing something?
Thanks
My Canadian Tire doesn’t rent tools. And I wouldn’t trust those morons to sell me the right tool in the first place. Idiots would f up an order for white paint. I bought lugs from them last month after swearing I would never go back and they screwed that up too. Morons.
I ordered the tool off Amazon. 1 day shipping. I will sell it when I am done with it.
I got the parts from an import shop earlier today.
So here is where I am at.
Took off the timing belt cover and found teeth missing from the belt. I am going to do some looking and see if the belt slipped. This would make sense given the rough running of the car.
The 420 error has probably been around for a while. CEL has been on and off for a few months. (I just got a code reader this week)
The 1129 error has also probably been around for a while.
So I am going to change the timing belt and water pump. I had to order the harmonic balancer holding tool from Amazon. I’m in Canada and I can’t find anyone that sells these over the counter other than the dealer. I wish we had more options like you USA guys. We don’t have Pep Boys or Auto Zone. No one rents or lends hand tools here.
Once I get it started I will diagnose the cat and map sensor problem.
The timing belt on this model is a bitch to work on. What happened to Honda? They used to be so easy. If the timing belt is this difficult and the water pump is buried under it shouldn’t they have upgraded to a timing chain? Having to do this twice over the life of the vehicle seems stupid.
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