Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Eric, Had the same part fail on an astro van I used to drive for work. Dealership tried (and failed) to bill the fleet company for about 650 bucks for a rebuilt unit plus diag & labor. It was just at the end of the warranty period. So that’s not a cheap one from a dealership, at least not several years ago. Other rebuilding companies probably got on board to offer cheaper solutions.
Both Eric and wysetech nailed it.
However it wasn’t quite a cracked manifold. Someone will have to explain to my why in the world “Murphy” spends so much time with me. The gasket physically blew out just under the corner edge/front of that cylinder. So there was no way to see, or feel any leak using conventional means. (can’t get fingers there) So I pulled it apart, purchased new bolts–and thank God each bolt came out with no snapping (Love anti-seize) About 1″ of gasket was missing?!?!
I’ll post a “Vent-a-Thread” about another annoying topic that just cropped up on this truck.
Many thanks again!!
S-
Both Eric and wysetech nailed it.
However it wasn’t quite a cracked manifold. Someone will have to explain to my why in the world “Murphy” spends so much time with me. The gasket physically blew out just under the corner edge/front of that cylinder. So there was no way to see, or feel any leak using conventional means. (can’t get fingers there) So I pulled it apart, purchased new bolts–and thank God each bolt came out with no snapping (Love anti-seize) About 1″ of gasket was missing?!?!
I’ll post a “Vent-a-Thread” about another annoying topic that just cropped up on this truck.
Many thanks again!!
S-
Will do! I had the heat riser shield pulled off that “Log” of a manifold already to check for any broken bolts. There is only one area I could not get my hand around to inspect, and that was the area just above the oil filter extended mount (The nice part that flips the filter 90 deg’s so we can get to the stinker)
The riser may be back on now, but I can still see and inspect the area around that rear cylinder’s exhaust port. I’m hopeful that maybe the gasket blew out, or the crack might be in that area. I couldn’t wrap my hand around there due to the tight space. But a car ramp and a little time…. I’ll report back on what we find.
Thanks again!!
S-
(By the way…That was one of the first videos I checked out LOL.)
Will do! I had the heat riser shield pulled off that “Log” of a manifold already to check for any broken bolts. There is only one area I could not get my hand around to inspect, and that was the area just above the oil filter extended mount (The nice part that flips the filter 90 deg’s so we can get to the stinker)
The riser may be back on now, but I can still see and inspect the area around that rear cylinder’s exhaust port. I’m hopeful that maybe the gasket blew out, or the crack might be in that area. I couldn’t wrap my hand around there due to the tight space. But a car ramp and a little time…. I’ll report back on what we find.
Thanks again!!
S-
(By the way…That was one of the first videos I checked out LOL.)
I can’t say what effect, if any it would have. I know with the older systems bad grounds could create a lot of headache and trigger abs warning/malfunction lights. It might be easier for this user to–if he suspects an ABS error– To see if perhaps an OBD II scan tool might be able to access that module to see if there are any set or pending codes that would offer direction.
I’m fairly decent at normal brake systems, but I’ve not turned a wrench professionally in a while, so even the 2001 beetle I’m driving while my bronco is sidelined? I’m learning A LOT about the newer systems.
S-
I can’t say what effect, if any it would have. I know with the older systems bad grounds could create a lot of headache and trigger abs warning/malfunction lights. It might be easier for this user to–if he suspects an ABS error– To see if perhaps an OBD II scan tool might be able to access that module to see if there are any set or pending codes that would offer direction.
I’m fairly decent at normal brake systems, but I’ve not turned a wrench professionally in a while, so even the 2001 beetle I’m driving while my bronco is sidelined? I’m learning A LOT about the newer systems.
S-
Any time you have brake pulsating the first thing to look for in my opinion would be for warped brake rotors for the front…(rear if it has rear disc) Or warped out of round drums.
Quick way to tell which, front or back. Go down the road and gently apply the parking brake. If you feel the pulsation? The chances are high the issue is with the back brakes. (That’s where the parking brake cable does it’s thing)
If you do not feel it? Then gently apply the brakes and see if the steering wheel gets the “Wiggles” or “Pulsation”. That would point to a warped brake rotor. Keeping in mind brake rotors warp for mainly one big reason. Brake Caliper not doing it’s job correctly. Hanging up on the slides/pins. Sticky seal not allowing the piston to retract correctly. Once you figure out front or rear? You can in most cases put the front/rear up on jack stands (safety first) and spin the tire(s) Most likely you will hear and see the problem as the brake will drag and catch on the high spots.
Now if we are talking about brake pedal pulsation due to the ABS system? Sensor inop or damaged..Always worth checking the grounds to the ABS unit/controller. Any lights on the dash giving clues? It might be worthwhile to have the truck scanned for codes. Many of these onboard systems can point the tech/owner to some very nice data on what to look for.
Hope this info was in some way helpful. I’m sure others that may have run into these same issues will also chime in.
S-
Any time you have brake pulsating the first thing to look for in my opinion would be for warped brake rotors for the front…(rear if it has rear disc) Or warped out of round drums.
Quick way to tell which, front or back. Go down the road and gently apply the parking brake. If you feel the pulsation? The chances are high the issue is with the back brakes. (That’s where the parking brake cable does it’s thing)
If you do not feel it? Then gently apply the brakes and see if the steering wheel gets the “Wiggles” or “Pulsation”. That would point to a warped brake rotor. Keeping in mind brake rotors warp for mainly one big reason. Brake Caliper not doing it’s job correctly. Hanging up on the slides/pins. Sticky seal not allowing the piston to retract correctly. Once you figure out front or rear? You can in most cases put the front/rear up on jack stands (safety first) and spin the tire(s) Most likely you will hear and see the problem as the brake will drag and catch on the high spots.
Now if we are talking about brake pedal pulsation due to the ABS system? Sensor inop or damaged..Always worth checking the grounds to the ABS unit/controller. Any lights on the dash giving clues? It might be worthwhile to have the truck scanned for codes. Many of these onboard systems can point the tech/owner to some very nice data on what to look for.
Hope this info was in some way helpful. I’m sure others that may have run into these same issues will also chime in.
S-
Idle was at about 850, maybe slightly higher. (Engine was still fairly cold. I had my hand around the exhaust pipes trying to feel for a leak–that gets wicked hot and quick!)
The noise itself seems to be isolated to the upper region of that head. One of the guys in the Ranger forum suggested doing the trick using a wooden stick or a long probe. Running the piston up to TDC and turning it slightly so the crank is pulling down on the piston. Then giving the piston a shove to see if I hear a ‘clunk’. I’ll give both suggestions a shot on Sunday (my next day off). Yeah I hear a lot of rattles and noises from under the truck when I put the ear next to the oil pan. But the noise isn’t that loud under at the pan. It honestly seems like it’s coming from the valve cover?
This is why I’m so cornfused about it. It sounds like an exhaust leak…but it might be transmitting from anywhere on that side? And under sounds actually as noisy as it’s always been. Granted an exhaust leak from that cylinder would of course ‘vanish’ when spark is removed….just like a rod knock or piston skirt slap would. Thankfully the better half’s Beetle is doing well, as I’m driving that bubblemobile until this gets worked out.
I thank everyone for the advice! But I get the feeling I’m going to have to pull that cylinder head off–either to search deeper—or to pull the piston and connecting rod out.
S-
Idle was at about 850, maybe slightly higher. (Engine was still fairly cold. I had my hand around the exhaust pipes trying to feel for a leak–that gets wicked hot and quick!)
The noise itself seems to be isolated to the upper region of that head. One of the guys in the Ranger forum suggested doing the trick using a wooden stick or a long probe. Running the piston up to TDC and turning it slightly so the crank is pulling down on the piston. Then giving the piston a shove to see if I hear a ‘clunk’. I’ll give both suggestions a shot on Sunday (my next day off). Yeah I hear a lot of rattles and noises from under the truck when I put the ear next to the oil pan. But the noise isn’t that loud under at the pan. It honestly seems like it’s coming from the valve cover?
This is why I’m so cornfused about it. It sounds like an exhaust leak…but it might be transmitting from anywhere on that side? And under sounds actually as noisy as it’s always been. Granted an exhaust leak from that cylinder would of course ‘vanish’ when spark is removed….just like a rod knock or piston skirt slap would. Thankfully the better half’s Beetle is doing well, as I’m driving that bubblemobile until this gets worked out.
I thank everyone for the advice! But I get the feeling I’m going to have to pull that cylinder head off–either to search deeper—or to pull the piston and connecting rod out.
S-