Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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If you’re going to do it? Might as well do it RIGHT!
Outstanding!
(sorry about the hack job. I had that with several car’s I’ve owned. Depressing to have to remove all their “quality work” just to fix it right!)
Have a super weekend!
S-
If you’re going to do it? Might as well do it RIGHT!
Outstanding!
(sorry about the hack job. I had that with several car’s I’ve owned. Depressing to have to remove all their “quality work” just to fix it right!)
Have a super weekend!
S-
I’ve never heard of it personally.
That being said? One thing I HATE to see anyone replacing a converter do? Is not address any issues of what caused it to fail in the first place. Other then design flaws and mechanical breakdown of the internal parts. Sadly most auto repair ‘jiffy’ type shops will just throw in a new converter—solve the usually annoying P0420 code (the computers way of making sure the converter is doing it’s job).. Without addressing the “Why it happened”? Will almost assure it will fail again over time.
If things have not been checked out? I would at least check and see if the onboard computer can relay fuel trim numbers. (disregard if the failed item was corrected–in that case a jolly “Well Done” is in order…or mechanical fail happened (aka, hit something in the road, smashed converter..etc..) With the expense of some converters costing about a grand in some cases? I like to be sure the cause has been found/corrected.
S-
I’ve never heard of it personally.
That being said? One thing I HATE to see anyone replacing a converter do? Is not address any issues of what caused it to fail in the first place. Other then design flaws and mechanical breakdown of the internal parts. Sadly most auto repair ‘jiffy’ type shops will just throw in a new converter—solve the usually annoying P0420 code (the computers way of making sure the converter is doing it’s job).. Without addressing the “Why it happened”? Will almost assure it will fail again over time.
If things have not been checked out? I would at least check and see if the onboard computer can relay fuel trim numbers. (disregard if the failed item was corrected–in that case a jolly “Well Done” is in order…or mechanical fail happened (aka, hit something in the road, smashed converter..etc..) With the expense of some converters costing about a grand in some cases? I like to be sure the cause has been found/corrected.
S-
In general brake systems are one area I am very hardcore about. And another kind user to the forum recently had a caliper bolt “Break” causing the caliper to partly un-mount.
There are several options…Thread repair kits have been used with some success. And the absolute safe way to go would be a rebuilt/new caliper with bracket. That way you are assured the brakes will be fine.
I’d just rather recommend replacement. If you are cash strapped there’s always (risky, but sometimes you can find a gem) pick and pull yards, or salvage yard parts. With all that is “Riding” on your brakes? I wouldn’t take a chance-I’d want to do it right.
Best of luck! Be Safe!
S-
In general brake systems are one area I am very hardcore about. And another kind user to the forum recently had a caliper bolt “Break” causing the caliper to partly un-mount.
There are several options…Thread repair kits have been used with some success. And the absolute safe way to go would be a rebuilt/new caliper with bracket. That way you are assured the brakes will be fine.
I’d just rather recommend replacement. If you are cash strapped there’s always (risky, but sometimes you can find a gem) pick and pull yards, or salvage yard parts. With all that is “Riding” on your brakes? I wouldn’t take a chance-I’d want to do it right.
Best of luck! Be Safe!
S-
One thing I HATE with a passion. Looking for information—finding someone has it… And it defaults over to a pay site.
That being said. I do a lot of work our own VW beetle, 2001. Engine is a 2.0 with a code of AVH.
What are the symptoms? Can you have the onboard computer scanned? (is the CEL on?) Need to know more before we can help. Sadly even the nhsta (probably got that spelled wrong, but who cares) wanted “fees to research”. That being said? Need a lot more to work with.
Please let us know exactly what the specs are..and what the car is doing/not doing right. We have a lot of resources here!
S-
One thing I HATE with a passion. Looking for information—finding someone has it… And it defaults over to a pay site.
That being said. I do a lot of work our own VW beetle, 2001. Engine is a 2.0 with a code of AVH.
What are the symptoms? Can you have the onboard computer scanned? (is the CEL on?) Need to know more before we can help. Sadly even the nhsta (probably got that spelled wrong, but who cares) wanted “fees to research”. That being said? Need a lot more to work with.
Please let us know exactly what the specs are..and what the car is doing/not doing right. We have a lot of resources here!
S-
Well, regardless I need to buy a new timing light anywho. (the old one had a cord catch the exhaust manifold. talk about a stink)
One of the oddest parts with trying to chase down the white smoke has always been how elusive it is. I had a pressure tester set for 16lbs. Left it attached to the radiator for quite a while (before the tapered rubber seat popped off….lousy design) and the pressure stayed 100% stable.
Next time I chased this one down? I parked the truck for several days and pulled the plugs. All plugs dry. Cranked the engine over expecting to see at least a mist of spray exiting? nadda. All dry as a popcorn fart.
Leave it for several days and you can mosquito fog with the exhaust LOL. But it clears after only 5 minutes and then drives fairly well.
Think it might be time to re-do the intake manifold gasket. It’s a common fault with the 2.9v6 engines to have the coolant runner at the end of the intake start to seep into the intake. (Just wish it would show up!!) I can’t afford a normal block tester kit to check for the exhaust gasses in the coolant. Kinda wish I had the setup that Scanner Danner has with the gas sniffer.
I’ll do both checks and see what’s going on. The engine is quite old and it would be interesting to see what the timing chain is up to….(So I need the timing light anyway) And if I pull the intake? The Disty has to come out and say “Hello” as well. (not the first time I’ve had that pita out. It got replaced with a rebuilt one about a year ago)
I’d rather do the intake gasket first at this point. It’s actually not to expensive for the set, includes all the fixin’s. (Plus the head gaskets are a full blown nightmare. TTY bolts banana: NOT.
I’ll putz around with it more on Sunday. I’m leaving it sit for almost a full week..pull the plugs in the driveway…and see if I get a “shower” LOL.
Eric: I’ll see if I can rent a pressure tester from a different parts house. The expensive ‘kit’ was $215 for the deposit (talk about a major kick in the checkbook…and 5 days later to get the money back) I’m considering slapping it to 16lbs of pressure and leaving it sit for a couple of hours.
S-
Well, regardless I need to buy a new timing light anywho. (the old one had a cord catch the exhaust manifold. talk about a stink)
One of the oddest parts with trying to chase down the white smoke has always been how elusive it is. I had a pressure tester set for 16lbs. Left it attached to the radiator for quite a while (before the tapered rubber seat popped off….lousy design) and the pressure stayed 100% stable.
Next time I chased this one down? I parked the truck for several days and pulled the plugs. All plugs dry. Cranked the engine over expecting to see at least a mist of spray exiting? nadda. All dry as a popcorn fart.
Leave it for several days and you can mosquito fog with the exhaust LOL. But it clears after only 5 minutes and then drives fairly well.
Think it might be time to re-do the intake manifold gasket. It’s a common fault with the 2.9v6 engines to have the coolant runner at the end of the intake start to seep into the intake. (Just wish it would show up!!) I can’t afford a normal block tester kit to check for the exhaust gasses in the coolant. Kinda wish I had the setup that Scanner Danner has with the gas sniffer.
I’ll do both checks and see what’s going on. The engine is quite old and it would be interesting to see what the timing chain is up to….(So I need the timing light anyway) And if I pull the intake? The Disty has to come out and say “Hello” as well. (not the first time I’ve had that pita out. It got replaced with a rebuilt one about a year ago)
I’d rather do the intake gasket first at this point. It’s actually not to expensive for the set, includes all the fixin’s. (Plus the head gaskets are a full blown nightmare. TTY bolts banana: NOT.
I’ll putz around with it more on Sunday. I’m leaving it sit for almost a full week..pull the plugs in the driveway…and see if I get a “shower” LOL.
Eric: I’ll see if I can rent a pressure tester from a different parts house. The expensive ‘kit’ was $215 for the deposit (talk about a major kick in the checkbook…and 5 days later to get the money back) I’m considering slapping it to 16lbs of pressure and leaving it sit for a couple of hours.
S-
I wouldn’t fret over it to much. It’s hard to know exactly what happened. I know on the VW we just did the rear brakes on (again, cheap rotors) VW recommends new bolts that come with thread lock already on. I’m kinda on the fence about that, because after doing brakes on this thing? The bolts–when torqued down to specs? Can be a total PITA to break free.
The stripped part is the interesting one. I’ve had that happen more then a few times. Usually it’s aluminum with a metal/steel bolt.
Just do it by the book and call it good. Not everything will ever go 100%. “Murphy” makes sure of that.
S-
I wouldn’t fret over it to much. It’s hard to know exactly what happened. I know on the VW we just did the rear brakes on (again, cheap rotors) VW recommends new bolts that come with thread lock already on. I’m kinda on the fence about that, because after doing brakes on this thing? The bolts–when torqued down to specs? Can be a total PITA to break free.
The stripped part is the interesting one. I’ve had that happen more then a few times. Usually it’s aluminum with a metal/steel bolt.
Just do it by the book and call it good. Not everything will ever go 100%. “Murphy” makes sure of that.
S-
Interesting news from the auto parts store that sold me these items. While the local store failed to locate any receipt or records of my purchasing the radiator and cap? The parent office seems to have located my purchase information and are springing for a warranty replacement of the radiator itself. I’ll have to spring for the cap, but they are taking care of the expensive part–which is that radiator. They will even supply a free return sticker and all the info to send the damaged radiator back.
So at least that should work out well. I’ll just have to wait and see when it shows up.
Thanks!
S-
Interesting news from the auto parts store that sold me these items. While the local store failed to locate any receipt or records of my purchasing the radiator and cap? The parent office seems to have located my purchase information and are springing for a warranty replacement of the radiator itself. I’ll have to spring for the cap, but they are taking care of the expensive part–which is that radiator. They will even supply a free return sticker and all the info to send the damaged radiator back.
So at least that should work out well. I’ll just have to wait and see when it shows up.
Thanks!
S-
Eric, Had the same part fail on an astro van I used to drive for work. Dealership tried (and failed) to bill the fleet company for about 650 bucks for a rebuilt unit plus diag & labor. It was just at the end of the warranty period. So that’s not a cheap one from a dealership, at least not several years ago. Other rebuilding companies probably got on board to offer cheaper solutions.