Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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How long ago did the CEL code get pulled. There might be more additional codes now stored that may offer direction.
EVAP system leakage could point to the issue. Things rarely improve when ignored, so the issue may have gotten to the point where now you have a massive issue.
I’m thinking there’s a good sized vacuum leak in the makings that is creating a lot of problems. It’s just a guess.
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How long ago did the CEL code get pulled. There might be more additional codes now stored that may offer direction.
EVAP system leakage could point to the issue. Things rarely improve when ignored, so the issue may have gotten to the point where now you have a massive issue.
I’m thinking there’s a good sized vacuum leak in the makings that is creating a lot of problems. It’s just a guess.
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Always start with the basics. If it’s been a long time sense a good tune up, it could solve a lot of issues.
I’d also give the coolant sensor that feeds the onboard engine computer. (some cars/trucks have 2 or more. one does the gauge/light..the rest go to the computer for all that fun stuff)
If the sensor is always telling the computer that the engine is already warmed up when you do a cold start–It will start HARD and stall out a few times. One of the symptoms is usually starts hard and runs a bit rough when stone cold. Get it warmed up after a short while and it runs decent. Not saying that IS the issue, but just something to look at.
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Always start with the basics. If it’s been a long time sense a good tune up, it could solve a lot of issues.
I’d also give the coolant sensor that feeds the onboard engine computer. (some cars/trucks have 2 or more. one does the gauge/light..the rest go to the computer for all that fun stuff)
If the sensor is always telling the computer that the engine is already warmed up when you do a cold start–It will start HARD and stall out a few times. One of the symptoms is usually starts hard and runs a bit rough when stone cold. Get it warmed up after a short while and it runs decent. Not saying that IS the issue, but just something to look at.
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How quick is the loss? Are we talking about a massive amount in a day or two? Or very slow and you need to refill it every week or more?
Coolant leaks can be a bear to locate. In general it takes a full check, both visual without pressure, and a pressure tester on the radiator/system to see if you can find any signs of leakage.
Do not discount areas that you ‘think’ are free and clear. I’ve seen water pumps get a very slow leak out of the weep hole and they dribble out under the timing cover (overhead cam engine) One would never even see the leak, because it’s pretty well contained and doesn’t present itself much. Pin holes in radiator or heater hoses. Can hide leaks pretty well, and spray a fine mist that you smell, but can’t really pinpoint or see. (And if it’s spraying on the exhaust? You’ll never really see anything) If you think about it, one should never smell coolant in the engine bay. It’s pretty well a sealed system. I’d see about renting or buying a decent pressure tester and giving it a good look over from top to bottom.
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How quick is the loss? Are we talking about a massive amount in a day or two? Or very slow and you need to refill it every week or more?
Coolant leaks can be a bear to locate. In general it takes a full check, both visual without pressure, and a pressure tester on the radiator/system to see if you can find any signs of leakage.
Do not discount areas that you ‘think’ are free and clear. I’ve seen water pumps get a very slow leak out of the weep hole and they dribble out under the timing cover (overhead cam engine) One would never even see the leak, because it’s pretty well contained and doesn’t present itself much. Pin holes in radiator or heater hoses. Can hide leaks pretty well, and spray a fine mist that you smell, but can’t really pinpoint or see. (And if it’s spraying on the exhaust? You’ll never really see anything) If you think about it, one should never smell coolant in the engine bay. It’s pretty well a sealed system. I’d see about renting or buying a decent pressure tester and giving it a good look over from top to bottom.
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Replacement.
The issue with yours is a leak from the sounds of it. So trying to unplug it wouldn’t have much of any effect on the leak.
Pick up a Haynes or Clintons guide for your car/truck and see what it entails. As a final check it wouldn’t hurt to peek at the connections from the heater hoses to the heater core fittings. (Kinda do not think you will find any issue, but doesn’t hurt to look)
I’d check rock auto for a replacement and then compare their cost with local auto parts houses. Used in this case might make more work then the possible savings..install a used one that leaks? And you’ll be doubling up on the labor to R&R it.
Replacement.
The issue with yours is a leak from the sounds of it. So trying to unplug it wouldn’t have much of any effect on the leak.
Pick up a Haynes or Clintons guide for your car/truck and see what it entails. As a final check it wouldn’t hurt to peek at the connections from the heater hoses to the heater core fittings. (Kinda do not think you will find any issue, but doesn’t hurt to look)
I’d check rock auto for a replacement and then compare their cost with local auto parts houses. Used in this case might make more work then the possible savings..install a used one that leaks? And you’ll be doubling up on the labor to R&R it.
Safe money bet is the heater core. Makes a slime coating on the windshield. Feel the carpet at the firewall. It’s probably a bit sticky and damp if the gasket seals on the heater box are weak and leaky.
Eric’s a busy guy! But we have a lot of really talented people that love to help others!!
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Safe money bet is the heater core. Makes a slime coating on the windshield. Feel the carpet at the firewall. It’s probably a bit sticky and damp if the gasket seals on the heater box are weak and leaky.
Eric’s a busy guy! But we have a lot of really talented people that love to help others!!
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I’m seeing about 3.9 for the level….Best bet is to pick up a haynes or chiltons guide and see what it states to be sure.
The internet has this one a bit higher then that..and a bit lower. Haynes or Chiltons to be sure.
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I’m seeing about 3.9 for the level….Best bet is to pick up a haynes or chiltons guide and see what it states to be sure.
The internet has this one a bit higher then that..and a bit lower. Haynes or Chiltons to be sure.
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I’ll preface this by saying I have an extreme dislike for Jiffy Lube and all ‘fast oil change places’.
That being said. An engine that reaches 300k miles on it–well done! I normally hear about that high miles from a diesel engine.
The engine is also worn and the clearances are probably a bit sloppy at this point. Depending on the temps in your area for the winter months–I would NOT advise running a thicker oil then the 10w30. Case in point would be my Bronco II. I run 10w40 in the summer/warmer months. When it gets colder–I change it out for 5w40. Reason is that the initial start up when the engine is cold–it’s harder for the system to get the heavier weight oil to the bearings quickly. So the engine sounds like it’s going to blow apart when it first starts. If I run 5w40-That problem vanishes and the engine is quiet and smooth. (edit: my 2.9v6 has well over 200k on it)
If 10w30 works for you so far, I would not jinx it.
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