Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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It’s possible.
The only way to tell for sure is to inspect the brakes and see what the condition is.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems?start=1#BrakeNoise
Lots of good information right there for you! Covers most of the good stuff to check.
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It’s possible.
The only way to tell for sure is to inspect the brakes and see what the condition is.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems?start=1#BrakeNoise
Lots of good information right there for you! Covers most of the good stuff to check.
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You’re on the right track with the replacement of the harness. This issue is not just with your car, many (including our own VW) have severe issues with the harnesses in the transmissions. Oh everything is fine–until it gets disturbed. Then it’s major headaches with the insulation on the wiring cracking and falling apart.
As for the ECM getting damaged? It’s possible, but most computers have overload protection circuits built in just in case something does short out. With a bit of luck, the ECM should be fine. Just keep the fingers crossed.
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You’re on the right track with the replacement of the harness. This issue is not just with your car, many (including our own VW) have severe issues with the harnesses in the transmissions. Oh everything is fine–until it gets disturbed. Then it’s major headaches with the insulation on the wiring cracking and falling apart.
As for the ECM getting damaged? It’s possible, but most computers have overload protection circuits built in just in case something does short out. With a bit of luck, the ECM should be fine. Just keep the fingers crossed.
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http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems?start=2#CrankNoStart
It could be a lot of things. The above listing shows some good information.
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http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems?start=2#CrankNoStart
It could be a lot of things. The above listing shows some good information.
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http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-2356.html
There are A LOT of posts regarding this issue. Everything from the AC drain hose to the moonroof/sunroof drain hoses.
Give it a read…it might prove useful.
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http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-2356.html
There are A LOT of posts regarding this issue. Everything from the AC drain hose to the moonroof/sunroof drain hoses.
Give it a read…it might prove useful.
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Very glad you have it worked out. Sometimes it takes a lot of tries to get all the air out of a brake system. Even more so with all the complex ABS pumps and systems in place–Just ripe for a lot of places for air to collect.
Be safe!
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Very glad you have it worked out. Sometimes it takes a lot of tries to get all the air out of a brake system. Even more so with all the complex ABS pumps and systems in place–Just ripe for a lot of places for air to collect.
Be safe!
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Freeze plugs are not really ‘freeze plugs’ but casting plugs for draining the ‘sand’ out of the block when it’s poured at the engine manu. It’s a crap shoot when it comes to actually protecting the block against freezing. Besides–they are external to the engine. If one did give out? You’d be leaking fluid on the ground, not in the oil.
Loosing coolant into the oil—no combustion gasses in the radiator.
Sounds like a hairline crack in the block itself is leaking fluid from the water jacket into the oil pan.
Could be in the head, but my gut feeling is the block is cracked.
Cheapest option would be to hit a pick and pull for a used engine–or a check of salvage yards for a replacement.
Recoup some expense: Sell the car, be honest about what it needs. Or call a yard that buys junk cars and get scrap value. Last option would be to part it out to other owners, and then scrap the shell/husk at the salvage yard.
In my opinion you’ve done your best at trying to figure out what’s going on with it—but sooner or later? Ya gotta call it a day. You’re the only one that can make that call.
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Freeze plugs are not really ‘freeze plugs’ but casting plugs for draining the ‘sand’ out of the block when it’s poured at the engine manu. It’s a crap shoot when it comes to actually protecting the block against freezing. Besides–they are external to the engine. If one did give out? You’d be leaking fluid on the ground, not in the oil.
Loosing coolant into the oil—no combustion gasses in the radiator.
Sounds like a hairline crack in the block itself is leaking fluid from the water jacket into the oil pan.
Could be in the head, but my gut feeling is the block is cracked.
Cheapest option would be to hit a pick and pull for a used engine–or a check of salvage yards for a replacement.
Recoup some expense: Sell the car, be honest about what it needs. Or call a yard that buys junk cars and get scrap value. Last option would be to part it out to other owners, and then scrap the shell/husk at the salvage yard.
In my opinion you’ve done your best at trying to figure out what’s going on with it—but sooner or later? Ya gotta call it a day. You’re the only one that can make that call.
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[quote=”ford79″ post=102861]ok I did the leak down test, because there was a misfire bank 1, then check for compression cyl 1 100, cyl 2 150, cyl 3 150, cyl 4 150, so I have a loss of compression the went for leak down test cyl 1 47%, cyl 2 28%, cyl 3 28%, cyl 3 28%, cyl 4 28%.
When I did a leak down test on cyl 1 the air was scaping from the spark plug hole of the cyl 2, so what would be the cause of misfire?
Just so you know I had the pistons at top dead center.The car is a 2003 Mercedes benz c230 kompressor, with a 271 engine 4 cyl.[/quote]
This is really odd? You are 100% sure the cylinder #1 is at tdc of the compression stroke. And you have the air escaping from the #2 plug hole?
And if you do the test on the #2 cylinder there is no air escaping from the #1 spark plug hole? Seems if there was a blown head gasket between the two cylinders that would explain it—provided the air leakage was in both directions. Just in one direction?
:unsure:
I’d say a head gasket—if it was going both ways. I’m going to keep an eye on this one closely. There’s an issue–maybe something cracked in the head or some other issue that is creating this issue.
Wish I had more to offer then just pointing out the obvious…
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[quote=”ford79″ post=102861]ok I did the leak down test, because there was a misfire bank 1, then check for compression cyl 1 100, cyl 2 150, cyl 3 150, cyl 4 150, so I have a loss of compression the went for leak down test cyl 1 47%, cyl 2 28%, cyl 3 28%, cyl 3 28%, cyl 4 28%.
When I did a leak down test on cyl 1 the air was scaping from the spark plug hole of the cyl 2, so what would be the cause of misfire?
Just so you know I had the pistons at top dead center.The car is a 2003 Mercedes benz c230 kompressor, with a 271 engine 4 cyl.[/quote]
This is really odd? You are 100% sure the cylinder #1 is at tdc of the compression stroke. And you have the air escaping from the #2 plug hole?
And if you do the test on the #2 cylinder there is no air escaping from the #1 spark plug hole? Seems if there was a blown head gasket between the two cylinders that would explain it—provided the air leakage was in both directions. Just in one direction?
:unsure:
I’d say a head gasket—if it was going both ways. I’m going to keep an eye on this one closely. There’s an issue–maybe something cracked in the head or some other issue that is creating this issue.
Wish I had more to offer then just pointing out the obvious…
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I’d talk with the owner of the location and have the service manager present. This doesn’t sound quite like the dealership was being evil—but it sure sounds like the “Nut-Buster” (I can’t call someone like that a tech) was trying to make more work for himself. Most shops are ‘flat rate’ and the techs/mechanics are paid a percentage of the time worked on cars/trucks. The more they can find wrong? The higher the paycheck.
There are A LOT of honest hard working techs at dealerships and private shops, and even national chain shops!!! Please do not let one taint your vision of the entire group.
That being said? You’re 100% correct. A snap on connector that was working fine when you brought it in? Just isn’t going to disconnect itself, unless you have a ghost in your transport. (in that case, I’d call TAPS)
I’d give the dealership a chance to make this right and skip working with the service writer(s) Go to the head of the dept and ask for a meeting with the owner of the dealership. If they have truly a bad apple working for them and they get nailed ‘creating’ work? That’s a black eye they can’t afford.
As for the fuel issue? Might be something as simple as a dirty contact or something like that. I’d go for a 2nd opinion on that one, as testing can be sure—guessing and suggesting a large repair such as a fuel pump? Put it this way–my Bronco II has over 200,000 miles on it. And it’s got the factory fuel pump. They do fail, but not as often as you might think.
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