Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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That’s the sad reality of todays automotive electronics. You need (to do the very tech stuff) some high end testing rigs and such to even test things.
Keep us in the loop on it. If the solenoid passed it’s testing, the issue is being triggered by something else. Wiring to the computer, dirty connector, computer itself. I’ve even read about issues with the engine tripping the code(s) and it threw the owner for a loop trying to figure it out.
Best wishes with it and good luck!! Let us know how you make out. In the mean while? Anyone else with ideas please post ’em if you got ’em!
S-
Get some Kobalt drill bits. They pretty much will slice through even the hardest metal without to much headache.
Had the same issue with the rear suspension of a 2000 Tiburon. Broke one of the cross member bolts. Had to drill it out and it kept dulling the usual bits. Even titaneum (can’t spell it, but you get the idea) didn’t last more then a few moments. Kobalt? Took two of them, but it walked through the oversized bolt like it was butter.
S-
Get some Kobalt drill bits. They pretty much will slice through even the hardest metal without to much headache.
Had the same issue with the rear suspension of a 2000 Tiburon. Broke one of the cross member bolts. Had to drill it out and it kept dulling the usual bits. Even titaneum (can’t spell it, but you get the idea) didn’t last more then a few moments. Kobalt? Took two of them, but it walked through the oversized bolt like it was butter.
S-
In case anyone wants in on this one.
I think that should cover some basics.
Judging by the testing. It looks like the solenoid has the actuator-valve–spring for tension.
So when the voltage is applied, the actuator moves in an outward fashion, pressing the spool valve against a calibrated spring. The ‘duty cycle’ (aka, waveform output) determines how much force is placed against the spring-and thus how far the valve moves.
So the test is just “Does it move” in the arrow direction. If the actuator is moving outwards and working against the spring–you probably won’t hear much of a ‘thunk’. But you should see it move in the arrows direction.
This component is not truly on all the way…or off all the way while you are driving down the road. They use the computer to control how far in/out (working with the spring tension against it) the valve is actually positioned at via a “Duty Cycle”. (Kinda like how a fuel injector works. The shorter the duty cycle, the less fuel/valve open time. Longer the duty cycle, valve stays open more and more fuel) In this case it looks more complex, but the principle is the same. When you do the test with the 10watt bulb and apply the voltage–that should move the actuator to the extreme position. The solenoid is apt to get a bit warm/hot while doing this, so just doing it for a second or two should tell the story.
I think working the flow chart is going to be your best bet. Checking other forums I found that from time to time dirty contacts at the computer itself where all these goodies plug in? Can also create issues. I’m reminded of the old ford EEC-4 test where our trainer actually said to “unplug and plug in the connector to the ECM 10 times to clean the contacts”.
I wish I could be of more help. General electronics I’m pretty good with. This one basically looks like it could stand to be hooked up to more precise tools (aka, someone like Scanner Danner with his PicoScope to “see” what the computer is actually doing-or not doing).
I’m hopeful that others can chime in on this one. This is about as far as my knowledge can take things at my end.
S-
In case anyone wants in on this one.
I think that should cover some basics.
Judging by the testing. It looks like the solenoid has the actuator-valve–spring for tension.
So when the voltage is applied, the actuator moves in an outward fashion, pressing the spool valve against a calibrated spring. The ‘duty cycle’ (aka, waveform output) determines how much force is placed against the spring-and thus how far the valve moves.
So the test is just “Does it move” in the arrow direction. If the actuator is moving outwards and working against the spring–you probably won’t hear much of a ‘thunk’. But you should see it move in the arrows direction.
This component is not truly on all the way…or off all the way while you are driving down the road. They use the computer to control how far in/out (working with the spring tension against it) the valve is actually positioned at via a “Duty Cycle”. (Kinda like how a fuel injector works. The shorter the duty cycle, the less fuel/valve open time. Longer the duty cycle, valve stays open more and more fuel) In this case it looks more complex, but the principle is the same. When you do the test with the 10watt bulb and apply the voltage–that should move the actuator to the extreme position. The solenoid is apt to get a bit warm/hot while doing this, so just doing it for a second or two should tell the story.
I think working the flow chart is going to be your best bet. Checking other forums I found that from time to time dirty contacts at the computer itself where all these goodies plug in? Can also create issues. I’m reminded of the old ford EEC-4 test where our trainer actually said to “unplug and plug in the connector to the ECM 10 times to clean the contacts”.
I wish I could be of more help. General electronics I’m pretty good with. This one basically looks like it could stand to be hooked up to more precise tools (aka, someone like Scanner Danner with his PicoScope to “see” what the computer is actually doing-or not doing).
I’m hopeful that others can chime in on this one. This is about as far as my knowledge can take things at my end.
S-
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=15365586
It’s a selectable supply. 1amp so it’s a bit of a wimp. Then again you do not want a lot of amperage, just enough to see what works and doesn’t.
I’ve got so many of the things laying around the office it’s not even funny. I’d do something like that, set for 5vdc or 6vdc.
I know it’s a bit spendy, but it’s also handy. It’ll work with many household things that run on batteries or the AC adapter.
S-
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=15365586
It’s a selectable supply. 1amp so it’s a bit of a wimp. Then again you do not want a lot of amperage, just enough to see what works and doesn’t.
I’ve got so many of the things laying around the office it’s not even funny. I’d do something like that, set for 5vdc or 6vdc.
I know it’s a bit spendy, but it’s also handy. It’ll work with many household things that run on batteries or the AC adapter.
S-
Ugh….
That’s in a bad spot.
Ok. Not going to like this, but here goes:
6pt socket and a breaker bar. Or if you have it? Impact gun. (I’ve got an electric one that is the best investment I’ve ever made)
You’re going to wind up snapping it off. I really do not see it playing nice. I’d snap it off, drill it out, and install a new nut/bolt. Probably a nut with “nyloc” to make sure it does not work itself free.
If you have use of an impact gun? That going Loosen/tighten….every few seconds might break it loose. By hand? With the use of a breaker bar, that will snap the head off. If the head snaps off? I’d grab the other end with a quality stud extractor and see if you can work it out backwards.
S-
Ugh….
That’s in a bad spot.
Ok. Not going to like this, but here goes:
6pt socket and a breaker bar. Or if you have it? Impact gun. (I’ve got an electric one that is the best investment I’ve ever made)
You’re going to wind up snapping it off. I really do not see it playing nice. I’d snap it off, drill it out, and install a new nut/bolt. Probably a nut with “nyloc” to make sure it does not work itself free.
If you have use of an impact gun? That going Loosen/tighten….every few seconds might break it loose. By hand? With the use of a breaker bar, that will snap the head off. If the head snaps off? I’d grab the other end with a quality stud extractor and see if you can work it out backwards.
S-
I personally would not jump a 5vdc device with 12vdc. (and my primary job currently is a electronic/repair tech for a video arcade company. I do mechanics work for my family now, as I left the industry a while ago.)
How about finding a cheap 5-6VDC power DC pack from a local store like Radio Shack and using that for testing? The inexpensive ones are low current, so a momentary test shouldn’t damage things that are not already on the way out.
Best of luck with it!
S-
I personally would not jump a 5vdc device with 12vdc. (and my primary job currently is a electronic/repair tech for a video arcade company. I do mechanics work for my family now, as I left the industry a while ago.)
How about finding a cheap 5-6VDC power DC pack from a local store like Radio Shack and using that for testing? The inexpensive ones are low current, so a momentary test shouldn’t damage things that are not already on the way out.
Best of luck with it!
S-
I’m not trying to sound snotty…
If it fails to hold a charge for at least a month? Use a recharge system that includes the UV leak detection. Car’s should hold the charge for many many years before needing a refill. The UV detection dye is great, and you can even get the UV flashlight from WalMart a LOT cheaper then they parts stores sell the ‘kit’. (that’s the most expensive pen light and safety glasses I’ve ever found)
S-
I’m not trying to sound snotty…
If it fails to hold a charge for at least a month? Use a recharge system that includes the UV leak detection. Car’s should hold the charge for many many years before needing a refill. The UV detection dye is great, and you can even get the UV flashlight from WalMart a LOT cheaper then they parts stores sell the ‘kit’. (that’s the most expensive pen light and safety glasses I’ve ever found)
S-
Sadly the rust issue has really gotten bad the last 10+ years.
Most of the brake system parts have been outsourced to China, and the uber cheap steel isn’t anywhere near the quality it used to be.
Just did the brakes on the wife’s beetle in Nov of last year. Had to replace the rotors last month due to severe rust build up. I’ve worked on cars from back in the 70’s that sat for months and months…never had a huge build up of rust. These newer cars/trucks? Can’t even sit for two days without getting rusty.
If you need to replace the rotors? Try and stay away from the usual ‘house brands’ and go for more name brand types. Rotors made in the USA or Canada are much better quality then the china knock offs.
S-
Sadly the rust issue has really gotten bad the last 10+ years.
Most of the brake system parts have been outsourced to China, and the uber cheap steel isn’t anywhere near the quality it used to be.
Just did the brakes on the wife’s beetle in Nov of last year. Had to replace the rotors last month due to severe rust build up. I’ve worked on cars from back in the 70’s that sat for months and months…never had a huge build up of rust. These newer cars/trucks? Can’t even sit for two days without getting rusty.
If you need to replace the rotors? Try and stay away from the usual ‘house brands’ and go for more name brand types. Rotors made in the USA or Canada are much better quality then the china knock offs.
S-